Old prices. I just like to keep track of how much I've spent. Monitor was BF sale.
No. It comes with the stock HSF with thermal paste applied.
I got the case for 30 bucks + FS on sale. Perhaps I could've gone with a cheaper case for 20...but this one had three fans and a window so I can see if PC needs cleaning.
Chances are those keys are illegal. Although, as much as I hate Windows 10 so far, I wouldn't have felt guilty if I had gone that route.
DVD drive I'll use more than once a year, maybe disconnect to save electricity.
A G4560 is fine for a 1050/ti, 1060, 460, 470 or 480 IMO. I'm not going to upgrade anything before display though. It's 768p and uses 130W. Not to mention I have to run audio separate.
The TV manufacturer told me the HDMI port on the TV was not supposed to work, and that it only sometimes works. I took that as a good enough answer.
GTX 1050 -> HDMI 1 -> TV 1 (bad-no audio) (shows up as DVI)
GTX 1050 -> HDMI 1 -> TV 2 (good)
Intel HD 610 -> HDMI 1 -> TV 1 (good)
Chromecast (HDMI) -> TV 1 (good)
GTX 1050 -> HDMI 1 -> TV 1 (video)
Realtek -> 3.5 mm -> TV 1 (audio)
The b250m Bazooka comes with Wired Ethernet Controller and audio cards. If you have wireless only internet, you must by WIFI Card or USB. This is true for most Mobos.
If you use wired, Windows 10, and have slow internet; you may run into the same problem I did, and so picking up a WIFI card for 5-10 bucks isn't a bad idea.
I agree. I just have 720p TVs and I can get probably get 60+ fps consistently in anything. Perhaps I should change the title, but when I think 60 fps @ 1080p with Max settings, I think RX 480 or GTX 1060.
My internet sucks AND Windows 10 updates will not meter "wired" connections.
Nothing is being throttled, that's the problem.
Windows 10 updater uses all 1.5 Mbps of internet speed. Even after the updates are through.
I suppose this web page does not have drivers for Ethernet Controllers by that logic.
My TV's are 720p.
Someone was telling me that if I set a max temp in afterburner, that it would effect utilization and not fan speed (which would already be at or near max depending on fan curve). I assumed this would lower power consumption only near full load. Underclocking seems a bit drastic to me and (I assume) might void the warranty, but would definitely lower my temps and usage. I suppose there's a lot I could play with, including capping frame rates-which I will definitely be doing, but I like the idea of throttling my GPU usage at high temps as well.
The connection has nothing to do with updates. My wired 1.5 Mbps connection is just hijacked by Windows update. If my internet was faster or Wireless, it wouldn't happen.
All you have to do to disable Windows Updates is disable the following in task manager:
Why did you lower the temp limit of your gpu to save power? The card only pulls up to 75 watts max, usually lower for less demanding applications, and lowering the temp limit is going to make the card a bit less powerful.
Because: why did someone buy a Zotac Mini and not overclock it? (Same answer)
Also, why do you say the windows is throttling your ethernet connection? Have you tested your ethernet connection with other computers and found it to perform faster than with your windows 10 one? Could it be something to do with your MOBO? Because I have 2 win 10 pcs with ethernet connections and I have had no issues at all.
Windows 10 Update uses all 1.5 Mbps of my wired connection even when the updates are through. A wired connection cannot be throttled in Windows 10. They have chosen to assume that ethernet connections are too fast to meter. You have to trick it into wireless or disable updater (or have faster internet). Otherwise, nothing else can use internet in my house. You mean ethernet card and not MOBO. The latest Realtek drivers are installed.
And with your 1050 HDMI audio issues: when you installed the nvidia driver, did you click express installation or custom installation and make sure that it was installing all the components (Nvidia audio driver, physx, graphics driver [duh], 3D vision, and so on...). Because the express installer might not have installed the Nvidia audio driver because your pc already had a audio driver. So to fix this issue I would recommend:
1.) Open Geforce Experience
2.) Navigate to settings
3.) Navigate to driver settings
4.) Clicking the reinstall driver button
5.) Selecting Custom install
6.) Make sure that all the necessary components are selected (Nvidia hdmi audio, the latest graphics driver, and physx)
7.) Install the components and reboot your system
8.) Test to see if that fixed the issue.
You don't think I tried that and everything else? I literally dragged another TV across my house and tried my onboard HDMI with the commercial TV. Not to mention unistalling all audio and video drivers and reinstalling the newest NVidia driver. I always use custom install. Every possible combo works except for this one card and this one TV. The best answer I received was from the TV manufacturer: "The HDMI is not designed to work on these TV's" Me: "But it works with all of my other devices" TV manufacturer: "It's a commercial TV designed for hotel cable boxes. Sometimes it [HDMI input] works and sometimes it doesn't."
He was wrong about the second audio line not working, though. It works because my computer cannot see the TV speakers through my GTX 1050 HDMI output-at all. The TV shows up as a DVI where all others show up as HDMI. Reminds me of Nvidia blocking old Phillips TV's, and looks exactly the same. They closed the Custom Resolution workaround for the Phillips TV issue.
No. Graduated in 2013. Perhaps, I should've said colleagues.