Agree. I bought an LG 29WK600 which has "HDR" and it's rubbish - not true HDR at all. I could have saved a few quid with the 29WK500.
I usually check out eBay or Amazon, see what people are actually for paying for things - note that what people are "paying" (or bidding) is not the same as what sellers are "asking" or what is perceived to be the "going rate". Generally, it's a buyers market and buyers will be looking for significant savings on used products. I'm guessing you're in the US? You don't say, so I'll assume.
Looking on Amazon.com, they are offering that CPU as a "renewed" product, under warranty, for $299. On eBay.com, used, they are going for between $130 and $200. Brand new, boxed, you can pick one up for $320.
I think you'd be better looking to sell at around the $150 to $200 mark, if you really want to sell yours.
Asus software seems to be a bit of a shambles. I've just noted on the Armoury Crate support page:
Armoury Crate is only supported by Coffelake models
Armoury Crate is only supported by Coffelake models
And yet they have it for download on an AMD motherboard support page?
I've removed it (which was not trivial, given it's a sh!tty Microsoft Store app) and restored a version of Aura that works. I'll just leave it at that, I think.
All the ASUS software that I've tried (Grid, AI Suite, EZ Update and now Armoury Crate) has been appalling - there just seems to be no consistency or direction to their software, across their legacy, current and future hardware products.
The best approach is certainly to use the Microsoft Windows 10 Media Creation Tool to create a bootable USB drive:
Just a cheapo USB pen drive is all you need.
I assume you're replacing an existing internal drive with an SSD, is that right? Is this on a desktop or laptop machine? What type of SSD have you bought? M.2 or 2.5"? Either way, you'll need to install the drive and either keep the existing drive mounted internally, or whack it in an external enclosure. You'd then boot from the Windows 10 USB stick, install windows onto the SSD and have the "old" drive simply mount as a volume in Windows.
At this stage, it would help if you posted a lot more information on what your current set up looks like (post a parts list), what you've bought and what you're trying to achieve.
Pretty sure most free backup / clone tools allow backup and restore at the partition level. EaseUS, something like that?
I have, many years ago, had success with using xcopy to "clone" from one disk to another, without doing the whole disk. Something like:
xcopy z:\ c:\ /O /X /E /H /K
Where z: is you old disk. You may then have to run a repair on your SSD before Windows will boot. Honestly, no idea if this would work, but possibly worth a pop.
Personally, I'd just do a fresh Windows install on the new SSD.
This! Got the fright of my life when I swapped out a faulty cooler and tore the CPU out of the motherboard! Another tip, as well as the twist, is to run the CPU hot to warm and soften the paste.
Excellent, thank you!
Not interest in buying, I'm afraid, but wow - awesome machine! I used LC II's when I was studying Comp Sci many, many (many) years ago. Ended up buying a Mac Performa, which lasted me a long time, before I saved and went to the Windows dark side.
Best of luck with selling it - I'm sure there's a Classic Mac fan out there somewhere with a keen eye and it might actually be worth a bit to a collector of classic machines.
Solved itself with the latest nVidia driver update. :)
Automatically received the latest nVidia 2070 driver yesterday and sleep is working again. Who'd have thunk?! It still annoys me (does my nut in!) that Windows can't simply tell me, through powercfg, that the display driver is preventing sleep! BTW, "nut" means head where I'm from in this context, in case you thought I was weird! ;)
I'm pretty certain that it's a driver issue - probably display.
It's not giving me enough of a headache to consider a rebuild or repair - hopefully it'll resolve itself at some point!
Hiberfil.sys relates to hibernation, not sleep. Two different things: sleep maintains some power while keeping things resident, hibernation writes to storage then powers down. Worth a try though!
I built the machine in November, so I am loath to rebuild just to overcome this stupid bug! Agree that this may be my only recourse at this time, though.
LIVE_AMMO suggests, through removing the display, perhaps a display / GPU driver issue. Maybe when I get the next nVidia driver release, it might just fix itself. I also have a Samsung Odyssey+ HMD connected, so could be a Steam VR Beta or Microsoft HMD display software "feature" that will be resolved in future releases.
The most annoying thing is that "powercfg -requests" and "powercfg -energy" SHOULD tell me exactly what is preventing sleep, but neither seems to point to ANY obvious source of the problem.
Also no luck with disconnecting the display.
Really annoyed with this! System Restore always gives me:
System Restore did not complete successfully
System Restore Failed while restoring the directory from the restore point
An unspecified error occurred during system restore (0x80070005)
I've tried every suggestion I can find, including booting into Windows RE mode, attrib'ing the WindowsApps folder and renaming it to WindowsApps.old. Recovery still fails with exactly the same error.
Surely we should be long past the days of "unspecified errors"?!
Done that, so only one device permitted to wake from sleep (keyboard):
powercfg -devicequery wake_armed
Logitech HID-compliant Unifying keyboard
Still not going to sleep.
I've disabled hibernation:
powercfg /hibernate off
So the hiberfile.sys file is automatically deleted. Still can't get no sleep!
I'm running a full anti-virus scan now, just to be sure that's not a cause.
System Restore keeps failing - tried everything! Arrggghhh, f'ing Windows!!!!
Does the 2600X come with the Wraith Prism or Wraith Spire? I have a 2700X and the Wraith Prism that came with it does a fine job of keeping it cool. I now use with an RTX2070 for VR games and I have no problems with CPU temps. I did, however, replace the stock thermal paste with Grizzly Cryonaught, just because I could, not because the stock paste was giving me any trouble.
Precision Boost Overdrive. Some bumph here that explains it pretty well:
Octix - https://octix.co.uk/
Really nice bunch if guys they are too!
Hahaha! I am a grumpy old man, my kids bought me that mat. Thanks for pointing it out, fundamentally a part of my build!
The Ryzen 5 2600 doesn't have integrated GPU, unfortunately.
Check out this thread:
I did the same as the OP in the thread, applying a thin layer of thermal paste to the base on the cooler, scrapping it into any grooves on the cooler base, then applying liberally to the cooler base before snapping it onto the CPU. Did not use the "pea" method and I used Grizzly Kryonaught.
Er, okay! Will do! There you go, done! :)
4 weeks or so ago, I would have recommended the Huawei MediaPad M5 Pro. I have the M5 8" tablet and it is a fantastic device - top spec, really nice Android Pie implementation (EMUI 9.1) and all at a great price. However, it would seem this is no longer a viable option, if Huawei is to be excluded from the Android ecosystem.
With that in mind, the Samsung Tabs are, I think, the best spec you can get from an Android tablet.
So, the Wraith Prism comes with two connectors - fan and USB. To control the LEDs via the Prism software, you'll need to plug in both. Otherwise, you'll have limited control via the MB software. I installed a NZXT internal USB splitter, mounted in the case: the Prism still plugs into the MB CPU_FAN socket, but the Prism USB cable then also plugs into the splitter, allowing it to be controlled by the Prism software.
If you boot a Windows 10 USB, can it see the drive? What did you "clone" the install from? Any reason for that over a fresh install and then copy stuff across from your old drive?
Can you post a parts list?
I don't think creating the image with Bootcamp will give you a bootable installation that will work with anything other than a Mac running Bootcamp.
Do you have access to a Windows PC, where you can use the Windows Installation Media Tool to create a bootable USB?
I should have thought of that. Could have gone 6 or 8TB 3.5" drive in a caddy! As it is, I went for the WD Passport and it's working great!
I've gone for the Passport and it's working great! :)
I'm thinking about changing the CPU cooler - not because I need to, but because it sounds fun! Yes, the flipping thing sounds awesome! :)
I have not come across that term before, but this sounds perfect! Thanks for taking the time to reply!
It might even support Windows Vista mate, if you're lucky! Seriously, works fine with Windows 10 and it's a brilliant little application.
There is an amazing piece of Freeware out there called SpaceMonger (1.4 is free):
It visualizes space usage across your drive - brilliant for instantly spotting where all your space has gone! :)
Are you sure the screw isn't in the motherboard or MB box? Were you expecting to find it in the SSD box? Daft question, but just checking!
Depends what you mean by "doesn't fit" - is it too long or does your case not offer up enough slot space?
I had a problem with a "compatible" case, GPU and MB combo - my mITX case (H200i) will only support a 2 slot card, whereas the GPU that I had originally bought (Palit RTX2070) was a 2.7 slot. PCPP doesn't yet support the slot depth of cards and cases, so that particular incompatibility wasn't picked up.
I ended up manually checking the slot size of an equivalent RTX (Zotac) and had no problems fitting it into the build.
I game occasionally, but I don't analyze or track frame rates or the like, I'm afraid. I have a FreeSync monitor (UltraWide) and run most games in Ultra settings and never felt that I was getting anything other than an awesome experience. No facts and figures to back that up though, I'm afraid.
I have a 2700x paired with an RTX 2070, using the stock Wraith Prism. I have it all housed in an h200i case sitting on top of my desk, so it's right next to me when in use. The Wraith definitely produces "noise", in that it spins and blows when the CPU is under load. To my mind, it's not "noisy", to the point of being distracting - just what I'd expect from a component that has to physically spin and blow air to perform its function of cooling the CPU. I've set shallow CPU, GPU and Chassis fan curves that keep things nice and quiet, until cooling is really required.
I replaced the stock thermal paste with Kryonaught Grizzly paste, which gave me a couple of extra degrees, but otherwise, it has been perfectly functional. Excellent LED capabilities, too, so a really good value addition to already good value 8 core CPU.
It's "normal" if your fans are kicking in due to the influence of increased temperatures, according to the profiles that are configured in the BIOS or fan control software.
What I would do is use something like HWiNFO64 to monitor your temps with and without your RAM OC changes. If your changes are pushing your CPU temps into the danger zone, causing your fans to max out to maintain the status quo, then you may have a problem that's not worth the perceived "speed benefit". If it's just pushing the temps slightly into an increased RPM profile zone, then you can either rest happy that your fans are doing their job, or you can tweak the fan profiles to kick in at a higher temp.
One last question: do you really materially care about 2133 < 2933? Do you really notice enough difference to accept the temp increase and subsequent fan activity?
I've never even heard the GPU fan spin up, if I'm honest. The CPU and case chassis fans would almost certainly drown out any noise from the GPU if it did kick in, and even they are on shallow profiles for low noise.
Temps are low for me, though I don't play any particularly demanding games - Forza 4 on Ultra on an Ultrawide is pretty much the only modern game I play. No noise or temps issues whatsoever.
If you give me a day or so, I'll run HwINFO64 while playing a Forza session, and let you know the min and max GPU temps.
And only another $100 from 2700 to the 2700x! ;)
I'd go RTX2070 with the 2600x, if I were you. The GPU upgrade will have a greater impact on your gaming needs than choosing between those CPUs, IMHO.
I have a 1TB Evo as my boot and a 1TB Crucial P1 for Steam folder, video editing and dev stuff. The Crucial isn't particularly highly rated but does the job for me at half the retail price of the Evo - though I lucked out with the Evo, nabbing it for £170 on Black Friday). I see the prices are dropping significantly for NVMe SSDs and I don't think, outside of benchmarking, you can go far wrong with anything that fits your price range.
A 2.5" SATA SSD is obviously still an option, but with M.2 form factor drives almost matching the price of equivalent 2.5" SATA, I don't think it's worth sacrificing the space and cabling efficiency savings of an M.2. Just my opinion, obvs. Another option, now you mention it, is an M.2 SATA drive, which will get you the form factor and cheaper cost, but sacrificing the NVMe performance.
Yeah, I have a launch Pro and it was getting very hot and noisy. Very easy to remove the top cover and blow dust out of the fans, but I'm guessing you're going one step further and looking to replace the thermal paste? I'd love to do that, but not yet confident enough to go there - will you let me know how you get on with doing that?
I have that CPU and use the stock Wraith Prism and get great temps. When you took the old paste off, did you clean both the CPU and the cooler? What paste did you use to replace it? I too messed up the initial cooler placement (put it on back to front, so the CPU fan cable couldn't reach the motherboard) and ended up taking it off and re-do'ing the paste.
I replaced my stock paste with Grizzly Kryonaught, cleaning the CPU and Prism thoroughly with isopropanol, allowing it to dry for several hours before applying the Grizzly. I did not use the "pea method", rather spread the paste thinly and evenly with the spatula that came with the paste. I ran the CPU at load for a bit to heat it all through and after a few days, temps settled to 35'-ish degrees C idle. Maybe you need to give it a few hours to spread and settle?
What case are you using and how have you configured the chassis fans? What are you using the read the CPU temps? Ryzen Master?
I've been looking into this too and found some caveats around PS4 (and PS4 Pro) internal HDD options.
I've been looking for > 2TB options, but have failed to find any HDD over that capacity that's compatible with the PS4 enclosure. Most, if not all, 2.5" internal HDDs over 2TB are 15mm in height, which is too large to fit comfortably in the PS4 caddy. There are hacks and mods that you can apply to wedge one in, but I personally wouldn't be comfortable doing so.
A 2TB SSD should work, if it's the right height, but will cost you a considerable premium. To what degree you'll benefit, I have no idea. My early experience with an OG PS4 was that load times weren't massively impacted when I stuck an old Samsung SSD in there. Up to 4TB and you're looking at a cost greater than your Pro, so you'd really want to see a massive load time impact for this to be worth your money.
The conclusion I've come to is that an external USB 3.0 drive is the best bet and that's what I'm using right now, for extended storage in addition to the OOTB internal 1TB HDD. You're looking at as little as £90 for a 4TB external drive, that should keep you going for a while. You could look for faster RPM drives, or hybrid drives, but again - I'm not 100% sure it's worth the extra investment, in terms of loading times.
There should be a setting in your MB BIOS to turn off USB power when the machine is shut down.
Edit: "USB power deliver in Soft Off state", from your motherboard user guide.
Sounds like you still have a power problem.
Reading your PSU and MB user guides, your PSU comes with:
A 24/20 pin MB cable. There is a socket on your PSU labeled M/B - plug this one in there.
On your MB, there's a socket labeled ATX_PWR1 - plug the other end in there.
An 8/4 pin CPU cable. There is a socket on your PSU labeled CPU/PCIE - plug this one in there. You can use any of the 6 sockets
On your MB, there is a socket labeled CPU_PWR1 - plug the other end in there. You can leave CPU_PWR2 for now.
What case are you using and what MB?