Fractal Meshify S2.
CPU in the front, GPU in the top.
If you don't like the look of the Corsair I'd definitely pick the Ducky then.
reviews say it's very good
How much is a logitech c922?
Most pros use Zowie or Logitech mice. The most common are Zowie EC2-A and newer EC2-B, and Logitech with their G Pro Wireless being heavily favoured, with the G403, G703, G903 also being used.
The G Pro Wireless and the G903 are both horrendously expensive (frankly, any good peripherals are horrendously expensive here in AU/NZ, especially if they are wireless) and would probably be beyond your $200 limit. You could probably get a G903 from Amazon US for maybe 175 NZD with shipping.
That said, I have a G903 (which was an RMA for a busted G900) and the powerplay mat and believe it's one of the best mouse ever made. A lot of people also say that about the G Pro.
The Glorious Model 0 is from a new company and still has teething problems and it probably has poor support around AU/NZ so I wouldn't risk it.
I would suggest the G703 which you can get from Mightyape for $138 NZD. If you're new to PC you probably won't even be able to appreciate a $200+ mouse anyway for a while.
Keyboard I'd pick something with Cherry MX Red switches like a Corsair K68 (although that's not RGB) and only has Red lightning or Strafe.
Maybe this for a Ducky KB. $189 which is well below Corsair boards.
You could get the Ducky & K703 for $316 plus shipping. Which is well below your overall budget of $450 to $480.
also some game engines load up to run a menu as a moving background like world of warships.
24 degrees at 4.7ghz seems really low to me.
I'm actually looking at doing a final upgrade when I get a new GPU around the time Cyberpunk 2077 comes out, where I get a new CPU Cooler for my 9900k (I have an oldish Nepton) and case with it. I'd been looking at getting that exact GPU as well.
If I were buying now I be getting an EVGA CLC 280 for a CPU cooler and a Fractal Meshify S2 for a case with the CPU on the front intakes and the AIO exhausting up top.
Other suggestions. That PSU is overkill. A Prime 850W will be more than enough and saves $65 or so. Even with heavy overclocking a 9990k + 2080ti system will hardly draw more than 650w.
I know it's a lot of extra cash so you might not want to do it, I would replace your mouse & mousepad with the Logitech G903 and Powerplay mousepad. It's such a quality of life improvement to leave wired behind AND leave needing to connect the mouse to a wire for charging behind.
I'd ditch the headset and get a good set of headphones like the Audio Technica ATH-AD900X (or drop down a level to the ATH-AD 700X which is almost as good but almost half the price) and get a stand alone mic. You'll save $100 with that.
Lastly, that monitor is good, but the Acer Predator X34P is a lot better. ISP panel, GSync, 3440x1440p res at 120hz for not a great deal more right now. You won't miss the 45frames over the top of 120 but I guarantee you will massively appreciate the panel quality and resolution.
Do you have a reason for wanting to upgrade? What FPS are you getting now and do you consider it acceptable? Is it impacting your gameplay?
And if it's not acceptable, are you decreasing graphics settings to try and get a higher FPS?
980 or 980ti?
I love when websites take a site that looks and works fine and ruins it for no reason. Although I assume the new layout is designed for an insane amount of ad space, based on the empty areas on the wings and top of the site.
9700k or 9900k. That simple.
SLI stopped being worth after the 980TI's. I wouldn't bother on newer cards.
If you just want a second portrait monitor I'd go with something basic like a BenQ BL2205PT 21.5".
I have their BL2405 but I think 24" in portrait is too much.
What do you have now?
oh wow that seems crazy then. I'd probably RMA it.
It really should feel that hard at all, it's just a basic mechanism, it's not going to bear major weight. I'd only loosely tighten it.
If your PC can handle mounting for the cooler I would go with the AORUS 2080 Ti XTREME WATERFORCE.
I'm planning a GPU upgrade for Cyberpunk 2077 from a pair of 980TI's in SLI with this and a new case like a Meshify C or S2 and EVGA CLC 280 cooler for my 9900k.
ASUS won't do anything about a CPU made by another company.
You bought a 2080ti without knowing why it has two power connectors?
To work properly you need to connect both power cables.
When you only have one cable it can't perform at specifications.
When you use both cables it can run at full speed, which is why it was hotter.
Check some reviews on the SN750, and if they come up fine, they are basically identical and you can pick either.
Define R6 USB-C.
VRM's, features like more sata ports, m.2 slots, if it has multiple network ports or if it has higher speed ports, that kind of thing.
It definitely fits 3x120mm fans in the front, I assume the 140mms only fit 2 because the PSU shroud prevents a 3rd 140mm.
If you don't want to go full overkill, then the 9700k will be practically within a few percentage points of the 9900k without being costly.
Either of those chips you want a high tier Z390 board to go along with it.
It's bad. Just spend the money on a slightly better WD Black or Samsung 970 Evo Plus.
You should not do three fans on a single header.
I'd throw in a WD Blue SSD.
easy. any rear or top fans = blow out of the case. any front fans = blow into the case.
Once the cache fills it's performance tanks.
It had a good place in the market back before Samsung dropped their prices, but now it's not a great value option. I'd rather get a bigger Sata SSD because at least you get more capacity for the lower performance.
good luck with the new cables.
You don't get power cables with the video card you get them with the power supply.
According to the manufacturer page for the power supply you get 2 cables that have an 8/6 connector.
They should have a label "PCI-E". Check in the box or the little cable bag that came with the PSU. Then just plug it into the PSU and the labelled side into the Video Card.
Up over 95c+ is usually something that's goign to throw up warnings.
But a 9900k shouldn't get up over 80 unless you're really hammering it in real world.
If it's 5ghz all cores that temp during stress testing is about right.
That cooler is fine. You'd probably need a custom WC loop to get better temps than it.
What temp do you get doing a cinebench all core test?
The WD Black's are not that bad especially compared to the cheap Crucial P1 and Intel 660P drives. I'd rank them slightly below the Samsung 970 Evo Plus. I wouldn't bother changing it as your boot drive.
If you just want cheap capacity while still being and SSD, I think the best option would be a WD Blue in 1tb or 2tb (they are practically identical in Price per GB).
Keep your OS & most important games & programs on the Black and leave everything else on the Blue. You probably won't notice much of a difference.
If you really really want another NVME drive just go with a Samsung 970 Evo Plus.
The WD Black NVME is a good SSD but it isn't quite as good as a 970 Evo Plus, it's still a very good NVME SSD if you want to save a little bit of money compared to the Evo Plus.
However, what I would do is this:
970 Evo Plus in the Rear Slot.
WD Blue in the Front Slot. You will be able to get a much bigger capacity of this than if you bought 2 NVME drives.
It will give you the best combination of speed for the OS and important programs, and capacity (while still be very fast compared to 7200 RPM HDDs).
It also means you don't drop PCI-E lanes from the GPU (which I think I read when looking at the page for the motherboard).
I have 970 Evo's for my Operating System and my most used games/programs, and I also havee an 840 Evo 2.5" Sata based SSD in my system for bulk storage and it's fine for stuff that isn't as important.
Looking at the specs on the asus website, both slots are capable of NVME drives, but the front slot along with the audio card thing is also capable of Sata.
If you just want a simple option, get 2 of the Crucial P1 500GB drives instead as they are NVME drives. They are about as cheap as the MX 500 and they will work in both slots. They aren't great performers especially once their cache fills. They only really exist as a super cheap option for people who have to use a NVME stick but can't afford the more expensive brands.
What I would recommend though is:
*Rear Slot: a Samsung 970 Evo Plus or WD Black WDS500G2X0C with your operation system on it.
*Front Slot: Crucial MX500 or WD Blue SSD.
That will give the best combination of speed (NVME for your OS) and cost per gb (cheaper Sata drive for storage). Keep your OS and your most played games/utilities/programs on the Samsung/WD Black, and then bulk storage and less important games, things like movies, music etc on the MX500/WD Blue Sata SSD.
If you don't have any SSD already, I would recommend re-installing your operating system onto it via the normal installation disk/stick program, during that process it'll setup the MBR etc.
If you're adding a second SSD, then just install it and use disk management to setup the partition in your OS.
yeah that's just in windows
If you just want to use the SSD as a storage drive not an OS, you'll probably need to use Disk Management to set up the partition for the SSD but that is pretty simple and that should be all you need to do.
860 Evo for SSD's, and Toshiba 7200 drives for HDD.
It doesn't work in the open layout. That layout is open.
I had the same thing with my R5 when I rebuilt it recently, I had it open, wanted to put a optical drive in, but it was too much hassle to try and put the enclosure bay back in so I just left it.
Get a Define R5 or R6 and put it on one of these:
If you're somewhere else on the planet you want one that's about 580mm long and 290mm wide.
It's what I've done and it makes it so much easier to get out from under the desk, open it up, or install things on the rear IO.
The WD Blue and Crucial MX500.
If you want to spend a bit more for an NVME drive then the 970 Evo Plus.
There are downsides.
The €30 difference between the 660p and the WD NVME drive is not worth the downsides for the 660p.
If you want a cheap, capacity drive then get an 860 Evo or one of the other Sata SSD's on the market.
The 660p is AWFUL. It is NOT worth the money being saved. It has terrible endurance and slows down massively once you fill up it's SLC cache the performance tanks. It's niche in the marketplace was destroyed when Samsung aggressively lowered the prices on their existing 970's and their new 970 Evo Plus models.
Get the highest capacity 970 Evo Plus that you can afford.
If you want to save money or need a larger capacity, then get an 860 Evo (either 2.5" Sata or M.2 Sata) and just accept it won't be quite as fast as an NVME drive.
It's better to estimate a little bit over. I wouldn't go any lower than a 60gb partition though.