My experience is get away with the least AWG wire as possible. the higher the gauge, the hard it is to bend and train. Your sleeves will also add rigidity to ur cables. 18 gauge is good. I'd go smaller because its easier.
There is minimal capacitance at those cable lengths. Actually, there is less compared to OEM wires. Makes sense as oem wires are bunched up, making more capacitance.
I measured it with my multimeter.
I find sleeves catch the airflow a bit. so a slight sacrifice for looks.
No heat issues. I'd avoid adding a hdd on top left above the gpu. as thats a hotspot. A fan there is good, but you'll need to DIY it on.
Hackintoshing it? I'd think it would be nice to dual boot vs. just using the Mac OS Sierra wallpaper.
Challenge for another day? very nice build!
Thanks buddy. Cut them myself using a romer. Had to calculate the lengths of the cables factoring in the bends. off the shelve cables are mostly extension cables and are too long.
Very under rated case indeed. I'm looking to paint mine with gunmetal car paint and replacing the blinding blue LED with red.
I find this case to be very good to grow into.I have the same case with custom wires, and you can almost use it as a ITX test bench given how easy it is to take apart.
The only thing I struggle is to find GPUs that fit. Zotac is the largest and beefiest card I can get in there, even with custom wires.
No a lot of space to tuck wires in, but the centrally located PSU means you don't need to route cables and wires in awkward places either.
I'm thinking about doing a paint job with automotive paint. Thinking gunmetal and changing the blinding LED to red.
Much appreciated buddy. My next project will likely be to fit all this into a DAN case A4-SFX. I'll probably sacrifice 3.5" HDDs and liquid cooling for an even smaller form.
The other candidate would be the Lian li TU-100.
I love how it complements the noctua colour scheme. You've got my vote!
Is it just me, or I keep on seeing this case as perfect to convert into a Minions case? Just add in the goggles, and some old jeans and ur half way there buddy. May I suggest a some much needed cable management? Also to really finish off the build, I would suggest a custom water cooling with yellow dyed coolant to make it look more minion-ish.
Although not a new idea, I think this is the perfect case for a minions build. Here is a similar build: http://community.coolermaster.com/index.php?%2Ftopic%2F10852-minions-mod%2F
If you check the thread, I have already given my answer on the issue of cable lengths.
It's going to be different based on your hardware. You will need to work out all the twists and turns you will need, and calculate the shortest and longest cables for every "ribbon" you have. By "ribbon", I mean wires that are twisted and bent on the a single row of ATX connectors.
For instance, the 24 -pin ATX you will need to calculate the shortest and the longest wire length of a single ribbon. Once that's done, you will divide the difference into 10 more steps to arrive at your individual cable lengths. The same lengths can be used for next 12 pins, depending on you wire management.
Chart it on a piece of paper so you can check the lengths after every cut. You will need to make an a slight allowance to compensate for the length you will lose from the crimping the wires.
Since the PSU is best mounted upside down, most of the "ribbons" will need to be reversed. With the 24 Pin, you can criss-cross them. With the PCI 6/ 8 pins, you may find you have to twist the top row ribbon independently of the bottom to make a more elegant bend.
It's gonna take time and will tax your sanity. So do it bit by bit.
Maybe you should call it the Flux Capcitor. Esp. With the wires at the back. Nice Work. Totally impractical to place anywhere... But hey, it's mean to be a showy piece. awesome!
Thanks. Glad to know someone shares my concerns. I keep on hearing good things about samsung drives in reviews. I just don't see it to be as good as they say.
OCZ gas had a bad rap in the past. They are very reliable now with awesome diagnostic tools.
The case is designed that way by the manufacturer. It serves two purpose. One is to hold the PSU upright with minimal structural furniture inside the case. Two, it provides a bumper to make sure the connectors at the back have enough clearance.
The minimal structural beams really helps to make for an easy disassemble. This was the only case I could find that meets this requirement.
I must agree, it is not the prettiest case. I chose this case for the spatial economy, not for the looks.
Respect man! Ever since I got into custom wires, I never want to go back to OEM wires.
Love the work put into it! Must have been a lot of hours on the bench. Cable management is superb. And I like how you've said "no" to the factory mounting points, and just place parts whereever's best. No compromises, and great vision. I think when it comes to PC case building vision is very important. Very. Otherwise your build will only look, feel and work just like anyone else's. Most cases come out of a factory after all.
Question, how much forward planning did you put into it before deciding this was the case you could do mods with?
Did you do custom wires or just used proprietary sleeved extensions?
If so, did cable length determine where you placed your drives and components at all?
Two week turnaround here in australia to get the problem fixed. I'm not waiting around for the bearded hipsters to figure out what's wrong.
I just do a drive swap and go. Anything else, its down to the parts store or cannibalize my old parts box.
I am definitely not lugging my iMac to the Apple Chapel.
But again, if it's ur workflow, I'm the last person you should take advice from. It's really whatever's proven and works.
Good luck with ur work!
Well you do have a point. I'm not sayin it's for everyone, but I've been hackintoshing for 8 years.
Only in the last 3 years I've embraced a Hac as a workstation. And only because I did come from a Mac Mini workflow.
I do swap drives out for windows when I need it. If drives fail, I swap out a RAID mirror. All else, it's down to the local parts store to replace.
Workflows is different for everyone, I've found I had to deal with more crap from windows everytime I have a Hardware change. esp. with activation. That might change in the future. I don't know.
Bottom line, if it works I guess.
I don't know about windows 10. Probably windows 7. I wouldn't bank my business workhorse on a Win 8 or 10.
Still, Apple Hardware still lags behind in terms of Pro graphics demands. Mac Pro trashcan doesn't solve the problem either as it's still not user upgradable, and thunderbolt is way too costly, messy and new versions of it keeps on coming out making them easily redundant.
It seems hackintoshes are still the best of both worlds. I am holding out that Apple's metal API will be supported in Adobe CC, and I sure hope FInal Cut makes the best use of Metal. If they are not, I'm out. I'm already half way out the door.
Used one back at college, ****. I don't care much for reflective glass aluminium ********. I just need it to be reliable. I hava a 24" Dell & a small 13" GeChic on my hackintosh and that's all I need for 2nd monitor. Even that cheapass GeChic is has better color accuracy that Apple.
Love the build. Save on heating costs I guess? May he install a feet warmer to stick ur feet in? Just kidding. Well done. I've used a lot of monitors, and the Dell Ultrasharps have very very accurate color and gamut. Easy to calibrate, cheap. Mine's U2413 which covers Adobe RGB, the Green Blue LED back light, although accurate, gives some ghosting. I haven't found that to be a huge issue tho. With other monitors u calibrate ten times, you have 10 different results. ehm Apple I'm talking to you! Never with a Ultrasharp.
Yes, but the the build focuses on being field-strippable. I can take it a part and clean it easily. The sleeves, while aesthetically pleasing, adds to the rigidity of the wires. They can be easily removed and put back together.
To answer your question, I can run this case open air, or encased. Sleeving was as much an aesthetic choice as it was a practical one. I have to please the PCPartPicker crowd right?
Notice I haven't pimped this up with LEDs. That's wasted wattage and takes from the practicality of the build.
1) Where did you go to find hardware compatibility for OSX?
Tonymacx86.com, first resource for Hackintoshes before anything else. Their buying guides are excellent, albeit on he conservative safe side. For X99 systems, Bob Roche on Youtube.
2) Why did you go with a full ATX PSU?
The case won't let you square off the PSU anyways, it comes with a bracket that sticks out. I used Full ATX because it was the smallest at the time of purchase in 2014 that has a gold 80+ rating. I also needed more 6-Pins to mount my hot-swappable drives on the walls of the case. I don't like to do double wires; they are hard to sleeve, and it places more load and heat on a single set of wires. I was also going for a perfect 50% PSU load for maximum efficiency, and minimum heat at 331W of 650W.
3) What do you find most difficult about building a Hackintosh?
The last 10% to get everything working like a real Mac. It's easy to get it to boot, and there are many ways to do that. What's not easy is finding a method that is impervious to updates, getting IMessage to work, getting iOS Hand-off to work, getting on-board wifi to work at all frequency bands (2.4 & 5Ghz) without the use of a USB wifi adaptor, and bluetooth. It really takes time and patience to find your feet.
My advice is to treat each problem on a Hack as a puzzle. Get it to boot first. Then each problem on the after should be a little weekend project. Don't shy from getting your hands dirty and get into the firmware and command line. Always be one major OS release behind. For god sakes don't try you luck with iMessage before any research, Apple will lock you out. Do you experiments on a separated cloned drive.
I agree. Samsung SSDs are very flimsy. I hot-swap drives a lot, I need the outside to be as durable as inside.
This is not exactly a forum for that kind of thing. Happy to talk on tonymacx86.com
X99 systems are quite difficult to get working. Not sure if the situation has changed. Your MB is a recommended MB from tonymacx86, so it shouldn't be an issue.
Bob Roche from youtube is great for advice on X99 systems. Esp. on Yosemite Clover manual installations. And that's the method I prefer.
Wifi on the Z87N is not supported, You will need to get a compatible half-height Wifi card to replace it. BCM94352HMB is what I have, and that still needs work to get it to work 100% w/ bluetooth. As for the OS X 10.10 & 10.10, it's easy to get it to boot with 90% working out-of-the-box. The other 10% is the gold standard, and requires some Hackintoshing knowledge and experience. I've been doing for 8 years, so I've seen my fair share of what can go wrong, and fix it.
Mine's 100% vanilla, so I haven't touched any of the system files. They are all injected on-the-fly every time I boot up making it update proof except for major system version upgrades. It's all done manually, not via any packaged automatic methods.
That 10% includes getting (1) iMessage to work, (2) getting iOS hand-off to work, (3) Airdrop, enabling wifi, enabling Wifi 5Ghz band and Bluetooth. All these are advanced hacks that requires you to get you hands dirty. Out-of-the-box they do not work on most builds. Can't go into details here sorry.
Always have a real Mac on hand to entitle you to the copy of OS X, I am not a pirate and don't condone it. It's much easier if you have a real Mac, even just an old one.
End-to-end custom sleeved wires are rare. Most builds add extensions in the front and leave the back-end wires un-sleeved. Can't do that with this case.
It was the best I could do, but if I was to do it over, I would put a 650W Gold SFX PSU.
That would free up some space for and push-pull config on the rad.
Although I would have a smaller fan on the PSU as a drawback. SFX is also more difficult to take apart and clean.
Is your build Dual booting Windows with Linux or Mac or something else?
Yeah, size was the key consideration when I was planning out the build. The Zotac was the biggest card I could fit. It fits, barely.
I would go for the GTX960 to save me cutting extra set of wires, but I people were selling their 970s on the eve of 1070 release. I just opted for a second hand 970 I needed to satisfy the PCpartpicker crowd. I don't think the build would have had that much traction if I fitted a 960 instead. The whole point was to fit as much power in it as possible with out compromising temps, performance, practicality and aesthetics.
Well, if you hadn't pointed it out I would have noticed. Now you made me want to change my PSU to a 770 W PSU.
Nah, the wires are all custom wires from a roll of black 24 Gauge. I did reuse the PSU OEM terminal connectors to save me some money. The colors of the OEM wires will show through the sleeves otherwise.
You need ATX terminal crimpers, good quality wire strippers, and ATX de-pinning tools, a ciggy lighter, and ruler. Google the heatshrink-less method.
Supplies include high temp heatshrinks 7-10mm diameter & good sleeves & atx & sata terminals.
I used to get my supplies from lutro0 customs, but i think the are now called mainframe computers.
A bit expensive, but good quality and predicable. You can buy from other local sources, but i'd say stick to a brand you like, and don't mix and match, even if it costs you a bit more. Not all supplies are created equal.
I've had no problems upgrading via the App store for minor security updates. Main reason comes down to how you install your Mac OS X. I kept my install "Vanilla" that is the system files are untouched. This difficult to do in a with automatic install methods using Multibeast from Tonymacx86.com. You will need a manual Clover EFI Bootloader method to get your system completely update proof.
Major updates are one that require a lot of attention and experience to navigate. Even with my real Macs, I always keep them one generation behind. Good thing about a custom builds are you can experiment with OS versions on separate drives before upgrading.
Hope this answers your questions. Either way you will need to crawl through the forums to find your feet. Happy to answer questions you have.
Yup, I can fit it, but it would be tight. If I hadn't sleeved the wires I would. I'm not overclocking in favour of stability on the Mac OS. The rad is mainly there so I redirect the heat somewhere else in the case, without using a cooler requiring height.
If the new GTX 1070/1080 don't shrink to an ITX form factor, I might need to build in an SG05. Otherwise, this is the smallest case I can find without sacrificing performance.
Yeah did some temps test. As the PSU is running at near optimal load, heat isn't an issue. The HDD at the top actually has enough clearance for air to come in, even with the lid on. The real heat spot is directly above the GPU. That is the area where I have a second SSD, which I don't use except for video editing. It is also where I do hot swapping drives.
Need an other weekend to change the LED out I think. It's glue gunned on by the factory, and I need to remove the solder. I'm thinking white LED or red.
Yes, I agree. Blinding.
Thanks buddy! Been a long weekend project.
Well, I think the lengths would be PSU & MB specific. But I just measured as a go mostly. I must say a lot of forward planning went into it. The result is a fully field-strippable Elite 110.
The ATX 24 Pin required I do some maths based on the approximate radius of the bends. I did it by measuring out the shortest inner cable length & the longest outer length. Everything in between is approximated based on my calculations i.e. divided into 12 equal lanes. Worked like a charm. Chart it 1-to-1 on a piece of paper is best. The wires on the 24-pin also needed to be crossed to reverse terminal locations.
For the ATX 6-pins I had to eyeball the best arrangement of the cables before cutting to length. Routing the top 3-pins separate from the bottom 3-pins gave me the right reverse bend to reach the GPU. It also gave it a pattern looking a lot like a human anatomy textbook.
Ripped out the HD audio cable, and opted for a Z87N wifi as the length of the case USB header cable reach the USB headers headers exactly, so did the power/reset wires.
Good luck in your building! Hope it helps. I've been thinking about giving it a nice layer of gunmetal glossy paint. What do you think?