Yeah, the more I think about it, the more I think it's a bad idea. Probably neat for a show piece.
Ooh, that's a good point. Maybe I'll use a Y or F splitter to create another fill port.
This is where I bought all my stuff. I don't recommend buying tools from sites like this though. I would go to home depot and buy legit tools, especially wire strippers. Get a legit pair of automatic strippers. Or, if you're really good, you can use these:
I'm a fan of cutting tweezers, especially for small gauge wires. For your crimpers, if you get ratcheting, they are going to be expensive, but you'll get the same crimp every time. If you get manual, they'll be cheaper but it'll rely on your wrist strength and endurance and skill at crimping...
I made all my own cables, feel free to ask as many questions as you need if you would like advice. I also worked in the cable department of an electronics company assembling random test equipment cables for a while, so feel free to pick my brain.
Your question is not very clear. Cable management and cable extensions are two different things. Replacing cables on PSU cables, I don't even know what you're talking about. Rackets for motherboard and video card and L connect... I still don't know what you're talking about. If English is not your primary language, use a translator to type your question in your native language and copy/paste the translation, it may be easier to understand.
M.2, simply put, is an SSD that looks like a RAM stick but can be mounted directly on your motherboard, assuming your mobile supports it. The one in this list does. This leads to faster load times, etc, since it interfaces directly instead of being driven through a sata cable. It also doesn't require a PSU hook up. They are very good for storing your OS and games.
Yeah, that's pretty much what I figured. I'm gonna try it, if I don't like it I'll change it.
Boric Acid. It comes in powder. Pour it along the bottom of your case, they'll walk through it and take it back to their nest with them. It slowly eats them away. Works like a charm. I don't miss my early twenties... most of the time...
Going to need a little more information than this. If you're referring to the power supply cables, when you buy a power supply it comes with all the cables you need, and usually a few you don't need... like Molex... not much uses Molex anymore. You CAN build your own cables, but unless you have experience with this, you'll need to watch a LOT of youtube videos to learn, or have someone experienced guide you through it. I built and sleeved all of mine. It's very time consuming. Another option is to buy them custom sleeved. This means you'll have the cables your PSU came with and the ones you bought. Or you can disassemble the ones that came with your PSU and sleeve those. But again, unless you really want to learn, it may be better to use the manufacturer's cables. Especially because if you get the wiring wrong, you can destroy your components. Happy to help if you want it.
Indeed.com is a good place too look. Search Calibrations Technician. Most places are willing to train.
I will also vouch for this. I was a computer technician in the Navy for ten years. I've been to 14 different countries and have met a lot of people and learned a lot from them all. There's a lot of ******** you have to put up with, but I thought it was isolated to the military... it's not, lol. If you try, you will become more disciplined and organized after four years in the military than your peers who are looking for jobs along with you, making you a more valuable job candidate.
So, I am a field technician. I go into customer's facilities and calibrate their scales/laboratory balances, etc. I bring test weights with me, kits that include 1mg -5kg weights, .1lb-5lb weights and/or 50lb test weights, depending on what the customer has. We also do truck scales with a test truck that has 1000lb weights and a crane to lift them. Back at the office, we have two labs, a Mass Lab and a Cal Lab. In the Mass Lab, we have various standards (test weights) that are certified to weigh their exact weight out to seven decimal places (some even higher).` We use them along with comparators to check customers or our own test weights and certify that they are within whatever tolerance they are needed to be in. Some only need to go out to 3 decimal places, some need to be higher. If they are out of tolerance, we adjust them if they can be adjusted or we simply annotate it on the certificate we give to the customer how far out of tolerance they are. In the Cal Lab, we do temperature calibrations, torque, humidity, volume, all kinds of stuff. We also do repairs on devices, swap out broken parts, soldering, welding, painting. Between everyone at our shop, we can accomplish a lot. We're kind of a jack of all trades. We also do set ups at customer's facilities, some simple, some complex - our IT guy is very valuable here, quite often there is programming involved that he is the most knowledgeable at. We have customers in almost every industry - food manufacturing, waste disposal, crime labs, machine shops, steel plants, pharmaceutical companies, all kinds of places. It's a really cool job and you get to see how a lot of things are done. Lots of stuff to learn.
How meticulous are you? With a little tech knowlege and math skills, you could work in a calibrations lab. It's what I do. It's a small industry but very important and not a lot of people go into it. So, while you may not start right away at $15, possibly closer to 13-14, if you stick with it, you can become invaluable. Our IT guy makes very good money and is relied upon heavily. The more valuable you make yourself, the more money you'll make in the long run.
EDIT Remember, though, as a 20 year old with (most likely) little to no work experience, you're probably going to have to suck it up and accept a lower paying job than what you want and work your way up. Don't be afraid to do the dirty work. The company wants value out of its employees and a good company will pay for it. They are not going to pay you in hopes that you turn out to be great. You may think you're great - and you may be, but they don't know you and are going to look at you like a 20 year old with no work experience. Given time, you can prove you are worth being paid more.
I mean, either way... It just makes it more difficult.
It's a difficult question to answer, desks can get very expensive depending on what they're made of. But, if you want a high end gaming desk where your computer can't get stolen, I'd suggest looking at the Lian Li DK line. http://www.lian-li.com/desks/
haha, yeah, was hoping for an analog meter. I think they look cooler. thanks though!
Yep, what this guy said. Unless you get regular brown-outs in your area, an UPS is more than you need. There are good ones you can get that are energy efficient, too. Like, you plug your PC into the main jack and when you turn your PC off, it cuts power to everything else that is plugged into it (monitors, speakers, etc...) - usually you can configure it to your own situation. So, if you pay your own electric bill, it'll save you money in the long run.
Awesome! Reamed it, sanded it smooth, wet it with some alcohol and applied some elbow grease and it popped right in! Thanks for your help!
wow, I'm sorry, just realized that those are NOT the fittings I have. https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-hdc-alu-fitting-12mm - these are. Sorry for making this so confusing...
Here are some pictures of what I'm talking about. The first picture is the 16/12 tubing against the fitting, the second is the 12/10 tubing inside the fitting, the third is the problem I'm encountering. I'm not sure if you can tell in that picture, but the edge of the tubing will not go past the o-ring.
I think you may be confused by the inner/outer diameter of this particular fitting. The outer diameter is largely irrelevant because the tubing goes inside the fitting, utilizing the 12mm inner diameter. The fact that they define the outer diameter is what mislead me to incorrectly purchase the 16/12 tubing in the first place. The 16mm tubing doesn't fit inside the fitting, the 12mm tubing does but it stops at the inner o-ring and i have to fight to get it past the o-ring. I'm of the school of thought that if it doesn't fit something is wrong so don't force it, so I don't want to fight too hard. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong or if maybe just sanding down the outside of the tubing will do the trick. I could try it, was hoping for a definitive answer here.
I think he means will the edge of the white paint be flush with the black paint. The answer is no, there will always be a lip - however small. But, if you use bevels or the texture of the components as a border, it will hide the lip quite nicely. Mask off the area, take your time with the tape, use an exact-o knife to cut it to size. Bitwit has a pretty decent custom paint guide from a few years ago.
Also, while I haven't worked with plastidip, my understanding of it is that it rubs off pretty easily. I'd rather use actual spray paint to reduce the chance of damaging the finish during assembly. If you want to conserve a texture of a component but still paint it, the best way is to mix 3 parts paint thinner and 1 part paint, put it in a spray gun and apply it that way. You'll get a nice thin coat without filling in the texture (knurling, etc...)
but isn't that the point though? 12mm outer diameter of the tubing fits snugly inside the 12mm inner diameter of the fitting? I have their 16/12 tubing as well and that also doesn't fit (ordered it originally, then got the 12/10 from a third party - faster shipping)
edit - yes, those are the fittings I have