Oh boy. Now I gotta find a vintage coca-cola vending machine, gut it, and build a gaming PC inside of it.
No, it's ARGB rainbow puke by default, and you have to install the tool from Cooler Master to change it, which only works when the cooler RGB cable is run through the internal USB header and not the included 4-pin LED_CPU connector. The software is buggy though, sometimes when I would restart or cold boot it would be a different color that I didn't set and would have to be re-set.
That program is here: https://landing.coolermaster.com/pages/amd-ryzen-wraith-prism-rgb-software/
So, in short:
Install the cooler and plug in the USB connector to one of your motherboard USB headers.
Install the software and run it.
Yeah, should be fine then.
For the price though, the Ryzen 5 3600 is better unless you need the extra 2 cores/4 threads for work.
The B450M-DS3H has Q-Flash, which should allow you to update the BIOS without a CPU, so you should be able to update the BIOS for Zen2.
VRM temps seem to hover around the 50s while gaming, and they're enough to handle the 2700X's turbo clock speed.
Do note that the Wraith Prism and 200mm stock case fan does help to give some airflow to the VRM. They will certainly be hotter without airflow, but it'll still be chilly for VRMs.
But, the ASRock B450M Pro4 is the better choice for budget B450s, since the feature set and layout is just slightly better for the same price. I somewhat regret not opting for that board.
I haven't checked, but it shouldn't matter as most VRMs are designed to handle up to 150 C, IIRC. I'll try to remember to check though, whenever I turn the system on.
Try using Precision Boost's advanced settings; disable PBO limits, apply 200 MHz boost override.
After doing so, more of my 3900X cores reach 4.6, and sometimes boost slightly above 4.6.
ABBA mostly helped with idle voltages.
What AGESA version does your BIOS have? You won't get advertised speeds without 18.104.22.168 ABBA.
The cheaper X570 boards aren't even worth buying because the quality is basically the same as X470 but costs more because of the few extra unnecessary features.
I run a 3900X on an X470 AORUS Gaming 7 board, and it runs as advertised. Had it for Zen+ and kept it.
As for 4K gaming, CPU does not matter much at 4K res as it's a higher GPU load, so the frame rate isn't going to push the CPU as much as 1080p would. An R5 3600 and 2080 Ti would be fine for 4K 60Hz ultra.
There's no point in PCI-e Gen4 at this point as the interface is still pretty new, with limited and expensive Gen4 SSD options. Just stick to what you have now.
Nicely done! That build looks really sleek and clean.
Also poor Spidey, MCU didn't want him :(
I was referencing a movie, actually. Wasn't aware there was a song.
RELEASE THE KRAKEN!!!
...I had to, sorry.
You did a great job on your first build!
Welcome to the PC Master Race.
Definitely one of the best looking builds I have ever seen thus far.
The only things trashy about this build are the very low quality PSU and the mess of cables in a case with decent management options.
That looks godlike. Nice.
PC had me like: DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMN.
Nice and clean looking build, and welcome to the PC master race.
This is truly some amazing work, Zacke_s. It definitely deserves to be a featured build.
You have to update BIOS to F40 or later for it to work with Zen2/Ryzen 3000 series CPUs. Without that BIOS revision, it won't POST.
I'm not sure if this board supports it, but Gigabyte Q-Flash Plus (not standard Q-Flash) lets you flash BIOS through USB without a compatible CPU.
You mean X470? BIOS updates...
Look at the build date. The original build state predates X570 by a year, and Gen4 M.2 is too expensive in its current state because it's new.
I'm waiting for the market to adjust fully (Gen4 is going to be expensive for awhile), I already dropped a lot for my 3900X, which was a much higher priority.
I found an old photo of my original revision of this build before I used the board's heatsink, and yeah, it does end up upside down.
Yeah, the backplate needs to be removed for the case; I couldn't get all of the stand-offs installed because the backplate interference.
Thanks for your comment.
As I can recall, no.
I can't check because I'm now using the heatsink that came with my motherboard.
I was using a Deepcool CAPTAIN 120EX RGB before I got my Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML240L. The mounting bracket was pushed back on the one side because it was wide enough that the backplate was in the way.
While it was a tighter screwing on that side, the cooler was still flush with the CPU and didn't damage it. If anything, the tiny bit of added pressure on the CPU could possibly increase the effectiveness of the cooler and paste as there's more pressure and less air potentially getting in there, at least on that side of the CPU. (If you've ever seen some poorly designed GPUs, whenever the cooler is far too heavy for the card itself, holding the cooler tighter to the card actually improves temperatures by a few degrees.)
That mounting bracket you mentioned may or may not have interference but as long as you can still install the cooler, it should be fine. If you want to be safe though, look into either guides on how to remove that under-backplate or go with a different motherboard that doesn't have that plate in the way just to be perfectly safe.
In response to your plea for help on your GPU review:
You're trying to play The Witcher 3 on 4K, presumably? The RX 580 is a 1440p card, it was never designed with high performance 4K gaming in mind, but this build of yours would completely destroy 1440p.
Mhm, but that's a priceless artifact, which would cost exponentially more currency. Try another one.
I moved the strip out of view, just above where the windowed panel sits so it lights up the components rather than burn my eyes.
The RX 580 I have right now was from a past build. I thought about getting a Vega, but it's just not worth the cost with how the GPU market is. I'm waiting for the prices to go back to MSRP or just until I have enough to wear I can afford to splurge again.
It comes with the Deepcool Captain 120 and 240EX RGB AIOs.
It connects to the cooling block through an included adapter, and the strip is both sticky and magnetized. When you use the controller to change the LED color of the cooling block, it affects the strip.
Yes, but I said it was comparable, it only struggles on maximum load while overclocking but is more than enough for stock speed because it's a stock cooler. It's also much quieter.
I agree, I just upgraded to the Hyper D92 today and my temps on max load lowered by 12*C.
From my experience, it's been comparable, just a few C off. I'll be grabbing a CM Hyper D92 later this week anyway.
I know Ryzen is better, but I don't have the money to sink into a full system upgrade for it to actually be worthwhile; this build was full of gradual changes over the course of several months, and prices have gone up since then. (When I got my A10, it was below 100$ CAD before shipping and tax. Now it's almost twice that.)