Sorry man, the AU site isn't working correctly for me. Price data shows up some times and not others. The US site went down for a while this morning for "maintenance" so maybe that is related.
It looks like you should be able to afford a very good gaming computer powered by a gtx 770 or 780 for $1800(AU). It depends upon what other features you want.
Crap I just noticed the pricing didn't work out correctly. Attempt #2 shall commence lol.
maybe something like this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Obviously money can be saved on mouse and keyboard by going more basic. Smaller monitor, power supply, gpu, more powerfull cpu. There are lots of different things you could want to do with it. I assumed gaming, so I put most of the money in the graphics card...
Your link is borked and should be: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/gdaskivich/saved/2H0m
This is what I came up with:
New AAA titles or indie games. It will be hard to hit 60 FPS on currently and next gen games like BF4.
Why don't you have a mechanical keyboard? There is a huge difference! Don't believe me, go to your local best buy type store and try some of them out. Cherry mx red and black are recommended for gaming. Browns are close and meant to perform double duty as a typist keyboard. I love my CM Storm Trigger and I wouldn't trade it for the world. However, it doesn't appear to be available in the UK :(.
Hell, your selection is VERY limited. This might work though: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-keyboard-gkosmiumbrn
You didn't add a case or memory, so i did. Toned down your PSU a little.
no worries, i didn't take it as such.
He had one in his...
I would probably throw one into a system I built just to make it more versatile, but it is not needed anymore since you can install OS's from flash drives.
If size is no concern then def go mATX. For an HTPC and i3 will be fine for years. My main gaming rig has an i5 in it and it will last a long long time for gaming purposes. I still think you should get a mid-priced AMD or i3 and throw a cheap GPU in it later if you absolutely need to. If you start with an i5, it will be better positioned to be a media server of some kind later. So if you are considering that, then its not a bad idea. In the end it is your money, and you won't see any performance difference between an i3 and an i5 for what you are doing.
In order to be rated PSU's are tested at 20%, 50% and 100% loads. Many units are tested and the median is used to determine the "80 plus" standard it falls under (plus, bronze, silver, gold, platinum). Where the PSU's maximum efficiency is located is anyone's guess. The rating ITSELF wants better numbers out of the 50% load, so that is something. Some efficiencies scale linearly, and some don't. How much does it have to do with reliability? You might think that since higher efficiency power supplies cost more they will be more reliable, but the reality is the circuitry is more expensive to get the better numbers. The market is more saturated in the cheap end of the spectrum, so making a bad name for themselves quality-wise pretty much ensures their exclusion from the market. Therefore, quality manufacturers make quality PSU's. The more you spend the more features you get.
The best advice is for someone to get a quality manufactured power supply that has been torture tested by Hardware Secrets, Johhy Guru, or HardOcp. These reviewers take apart the PSU and inspect the circuitry to ensure the claimed features are present. I don't know how many times I have seen them say "there is no over-volt circuit even though that is a claimed feature, avoid this power supply". Seasonic seems to be really on top of their game right now. They produce corsairs very best power supplies and many others. They make all of XFX's, some of PC Power & Cooling, as well as Antec's best varieties.
PSU actual manufacturer Source
PSU efficiency forum post
Corsair 80 plus explanation
in that case it is (hopefully) overkill. :)
ah, got it!! Just the way you responded made me think different lol. Yeah, do what you have to in order to cut costs. I think it looks great like that. He should def get a better keyboard and mouse though. shudder.
Too large of a single monitor. Dual 24's are where it is at. Wait till you are gaming like THAT!!! For case lighting stay away from most LED fans. Instead invest in case lighting if that is your thing: http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g6/c77/list/p1/Lighting-LED_Lighting.html.
For much less money I would do something like this:
Damn near silent at idle. Custom water cooling loop would be a better way to spend the money you had in it earlier. The sound card is probably superfluous. I would try onboard sound first, and only invest in a card if you are unhappy. I think onboard sounds fine.
Are you familiar with liquid coolers??? You realize it is completely factory sealed. Its actually easier in my estimation to install than many tower coolers.
Good lord. Help is on the way. Lets spend your money better for gaming/overclocking...
Looks great!!! A closed loop cooler of almost any variety will maintain the black look for the cooler. The cheapest one will put you over by $16, but look pretty damn slick. Ask them if it is worth it...
an i5 of any variety is way overkill. way. way. way way way overkill. Not as bad as an i7 though lol.
Unless you are running it like a server in which multiple clients can be connecting, I don't see any reason why you will need an i5. A fast i3 would be perfect. If you didn't already have a bunch of components I would suggest you go mini-itx APU.
I had always heard the degradation comes from 100% uptime situations. To fix simply shut down your system when not in use. (In this day and age of SSD's if you don't I will kick you!) :P
ahhhhhhhhhhhh, that makes total sense. Now I am 100% in the one card camp. :).
Workstations almost always benefit from workstation graphics cards like quadros and firepro's. The software you use should recommend a specific breed of GPU. It does make a difference as they can optimize for that card family. Workstation cards can still play games, and gaming cards can still accelerate workstation tasks, just not as much. I wish you could fit a v5800. It pushes you over $1000 though. Flipped you to haswell, same cost chip:
I would look into what hardware the software you use recommends and play around with builds that incorporate that technology. Is it worth dropping down to a lower end i5 or possibly even an AMD processor to fit that in the budget?
For LAN parties or as an actual server? The suggested requirements vary wildly depending upon use and player count.
Lan Server req.
Dedicated Server Req.
I don't see a dedicated GPU being required. I'm kinda thinking you would be better off finding something on craig's list for $20 - $50. Here is a shot at a really really really cheap computer. I would never purchase this myself due to quality worries, so I have trouble stamping it for you to get either...
Pretty good. You don't have a tower listed, so I added one. Had to change some stuff to get it under $400. Will all work just fine together.
This is what I came up with if you already purchased the specified components:
You should be looking at pricing now so you can recognize a deal when one comes along. When you say you "have" a case, gpu, and cooler, do you mean they are purchased or you have them picked out?
For the fans, if you want the best money can buy: Get Noctua PWM. If you want the same performance from a lesser name, get Cougar PWM. Something in between would be Corsair (quiet/more air) or Silverstone penetration themed fans.
I recommended the SLI and greater memory bandwidth because I am not convinced a single 780 is enough....http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_780_sli_review,22.html
It looks like it is over 30FPS in all but metro 2033, so you should be fine, but some strive for 60FPS. The GTX 780 ti should be better than the straight 780 in every aspect, have they announced the VRM amounts? Wonder if they will try to meet the R9 290X at 4GB?
This may work just as well for their purposes:
HTPC's should be renamed "the land of the APU". Really AMD's chips shine here. Here is an APU based mini-itx system with wireless built-in. Case is very quiet and very high quality and gorgeous. Power supply will allow for plenty of expansion in the future. (Hard drives at 10-20w apiece). Single stick of RAM so it can be increased later if you so desire.
IF you were willing to spend a little more on your ssd, I would get away from OCZ. I haven't had the best of luck, and their support is piss poor. Crucial, Samsung, Adata, and Intel all have good offerings. You pay so much more for it though I don't know if it would be worth it to you.
I like cougar fans for well built, low price German made fans that know how to move air. They recently added LED fans to their lineup and they are pretty cool! I swapped them out for the CM ones you had. If your number 1 concern is build quality and quiet air movement, there are a couple of Corsair, Noctua, Cougar, and Silverstone fans that specialize in such. The ones I recommended are the only ones I know of with incorporated LED's. I recommend alchemy strips if you really want it to look sharp. frozen CPU link. Then you can focus on high quality fans and not worry about the lighting aspect as much. In that case, nothing really beats Noctua. :)
Look at the G602 for a potential mouse. LinusTechTips Review
I prefer the wireless mice you can directly plug in via USB if you want. Just in case it seems laggy you can switch. (They seem to have most of those problems licked, but there is still an active discussion about wireless vs wired and I love keeping my options open).
For multi monitor video memory matters a bit more, plus I wanted to ensure you had enough power for all three so I added a second GPU. Dropped it down to a 770 and it will still blow the doors off a single 780!
I like the top MSI board for overclocking. It has dual NIC's which you may really like for streaming!
Changed speakers to something that will actually resemble sound. lol. I wish the Klipsch Promedia's were still available. They are really good as well. I have had the cheaper logitech system's. They are okay, but there is a night and day difference between their systems and a really high quality one!
Here is your build with those minor changes:
Hell, if you are waiting for black friday, see if any corsair cases drop low enough to be considered. Even the 200R is a great one!!! Fractal Design Arc Midi might be in range on a really deep discount. (Loss leader for sure). If not, do like you said and get the best price you can on BF. I prefer bfads.net for my early warning system. But there are many others.
Rosewill does pretty good at providing "value" components. I have purchased some Rosewill stuff in the past, and I probably will again in the future. With rosewill, "value" generally means "cheap" which generally means poor quality. There are some gems in their lineup, and sometimes you can get a decent amount for not that much money. However, there is a reason why they big guys that can produce cases cheaper through experience and large production charge what they do. In order to cut the price, they have to cut corners. The NZXT source 210 elite is a decent low cost chassis, and NZXT has made a name for themselves providing a couple of really inexpensive options with few cut corners in build quality. I went with a NZXT Source 210 (not elite) over a rosewill case that appeared to have more "features" when I was purchasing a budget case. When I wanted a Higher quality case I got a CM HAF 922 on sale for $90. (Before corsair had good options in that price range :)).
what resolution will you be gaming at? That matters the most. If you are talking on a 4k display then you won't see ultra graphics lol. 1080p, should come pretty close with the 660 ti.
any aftermarket cooler should serve your needs. The default suggestion is the Hyper 212 evo (or 212 plus if there is a huge price gap). That is because its price to performance is generally very good. However, if you know you won't be overclocking there is no need to stretch that high. Any sub $20 should serve you fine.
That case is very cheap, and i mean that in the most unflattering way possible. I consider myself a bit of a snob when it comes to cases, but I think you can do better for not much more money.
You need to not include mail in rebates in your pricing. It skews the results a bunch. Basically consider the MIR a bonus (if you actually get any of them successfully lol).
These changes should make for a more stable build. Just do the very minor overclock to increase the 8320 to 8350 levels :).
The H80i comes with thermal paste. You don't need any, and if you did I would buy based on this chart: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616-17.html
i have no clue what you are talking about for the color thingy. Here is what I came up with in that budget:
Bigger SSD, stronger GPU, cheaper/louder PSU, mini-itx board with built in wifi, small case that still supports H80, faster/cheaper memory, cheaper total build price...
FYI - I highly recommend newegg as well as amazon. Might take a little longer to receive parts (vs amazon prime 2 day shipping) but the service is as good as Amazon. They take care of you too.
I don't have as much experience with NCIX, though I have ordered a couple of things from them which I received without incident. They are a very reputable company that many customers love, but I try to speak from my own experiences where possible and I don't feel I can do that here. That being said, I am leery with online purchases, and I would never hesitate to do business with NCIX.
I think an i5 is overkill, and you should spend your money a little better. Here is where the super-cheap AMD APU's really come into play. They even game a little better than a similarly priced intel chip, however, better gaming numbers are usually attained with an even cheaper/older cpu and a modest GPU.
For the double duty, consider this:
I had some trouble with this and made some compromises I had trouble with.
There are things that CAN be done to make it cheaper. Back off the processor a little more, step down the RAM size and speed. etc. But this is a very nice and balanced HTPC, with the capability for light gaming.
I figured you needed the whole setup, mouse, keyboard, monitor, windows, the works. If not, you pick a few things from this list to step up in: GPU, CPU cooler, and/or SSD.
Fractal Define R4 Review
G602 Linus Review
Pretty close to the line here:
You can put the money you save on the SSD into your GPU. That is basically what btsniper did. For gaming computer's the only thing SSD does is makes it boot faster. The GPU will determine in game performance. What type of monitor you have REALLY matters here. If it is 720p and you don't plan on upgrading, anything more than a 650 ti is probably overkill :).
HardwareCanucks took a shot at it too. But wow, the price/performance ratio is off the freaking charts!!!! (Compared to titan and even 780). The heat and noise is a concern. Though some say comparable to the 7970... Its probably best to avoid a first run GPU anyway and wait for the models with beefy aftermarket coolers.
From the selection of your other components you have proven to a connoisseur of the extreme, but EVERYONE knows that "a Very Expensive Thingy" is not compatible with a computer with no motherboard selected. sheez. Do better man, do better.
Don't forget to change your SSD to the 840 pro: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7pd128bw
I meant drop down in price, but I see how that doesn't make sense as I formally used "drop down" to mean in performance. Ironic catch.
Also btsniper's suggestion of a define R4 will give you a nice large window looking into your beautiful system! I think that would be a welcome addition as well. http://pcpartpicker.com/forums/topic/15258-first-gaming-build-budget-around-2000-needs-advice#cx182421
The mPower boards are some of MSI's best. Some of the boards that are even higher end have a crazy test procedure they go through, but any of the mPowers will be fine. You are paying for the styling and dual GPU support and overclocking stability with your selection, as long as you are fine with the price point, then go for it!!!
I really would up the SSD for $4 to the 840 pro. Its faster and it has at least a 2 year longer warranty! (Most times that means better build quality).
Motherboard is a bit overkill for a single GPU system unless you are planning on having a ton more drives. Even then there are cheaper options with 8 sata ports.
Other than that I really like this build. See what he did with the Corsair RM PSU. They are really really quiet and that should be plenty for anything you want to add to the system. (Except sli of course). The Define R4 will make for a beautiful and quiet case.
That sucks! Who has been saying that, anybody I would know? Good catch though, i have been out of the loop this week.
Your power supply it way too high end for a system with only one GPU. I would scale it back a bit. If I was going to spend that much, I would probably opt for the super quiet Corsair RM 850W. I personally would never select a Rosewill power supply as rosewill is known for "cheaper" components. That being said, I have heard some good things about several of their units. The one you selected does pretty good, but I cannot find any of my favorite reviewers taking it apart and inspecting it. (hardware secrets, hard ocp, johnny guru). It doesn't live up to its power efficiency at lower load points, and that is where you will be. I would rather get a seasonic manufactured power supply like this: XFX modular 1050w for much cheaper. This seasonic model would also work fine if you wanted to shave your budget a little more: SeaSonic M12II 850W
I don't know what others think, but I would drop down to a R9 290x. Their aggressive price point and comparative performance to a 780 make me smile.
This is what I would probably end up with, if I had your budget and wanted a single GPU solution.
4 or 8gig of ram should make no difference to you. If you get two matched pairs it will run in dual channel mode. (Similar to dual core computers). If you only get a single stick it will be single channel. So 1600Mhz memory is actually 800mhz x 2 channels. Testing shows it will make no difference to you at all.
$500 builds make it pretty hard to include an SSD in the budget. It helps that you don't need a gaming rig. I would recommend and SSD more for an HTPC than a normal gaming desktop. Reason is you want the damn thing to turn on in about the same amount of time as a blu-ray player. 1-2 minute boots are for the birds :). I think you did good with the caching drive. I don't know all that much about them, do they dedicate space to the boot sequence do you know? Do they run on Linux just fine?
I really like that silverstone case. You won't need any other fans and it will be whisper quiet, a definite plus for an HTPC. It will look beautiful in any environment.
Check black friday for online sales. bfads.net is usually a good source.
The table layout for the build is automatic. There is a button on the top of your build page. It says "PcPartPicker/Reddit layout". Click that and it pops up a new window with your build it in highlighted, just copy and paste into your post.