Did a quick case search on here. These seem to (possibly) fit the bill:
I misread your post - there is an option for either a non-vented or vented glass side panel. But not sure this is the type of case your looking for. This case is like a third of the size of the 280x - components are assembled around an internal spine, so the motherboard is viewable from one side, while the video card is seen from the other side. Not really for viewing all your components in one window.
Go with a Louqe Ghost S1 with a top hat and bottom hat to accommodate the radiators. No glass, all vented panels, milled aluminum throughout.
If I were to do an ITX build now, this is the route I would go. It's pricey though - with 2 large top/bottom hats, your looking at about $370-ish. But you pay for small volume, all milled-aluminum construction.
Gotcha - I've actually seen that Kaislin brand bracket before - didn't give it much thought. Seems ok.
Like the video says, it should fit in an mATX case - the only caveat being if you have a big CPU air cooler, it'll interfere with the vertical mount.
Thanks! Nice builds as well - like the all-around aesthetics on Mother War (whole desk area).
I'd be curious to see the bracket you're talking about - do you happen to have a link?
Just doing some research, the 980 card I have in that build is actually about a quarter inch longer than the Gigabyte 5700 XT 3-fan version. Your gigabyte card (if I'm looking at the correct one) is 11 inches long which isn't actually that big, so you actually might be able to find a solution depending on what case you get.
You wont' be able to do it with your typical aftermarket mounting brackets, like from Cooler Master or CableMod. Those require the full 7 PCIE slots found on ATX cases. mATX cases only have 4-5 slots - the brackets wouldn't fit.
You can try using the MNPCtech vertical mount that takes up the space of a fan mounting point, but in an mATX case it will be a tight fit. Take a look at the my Roy G Biv build to see how tight it could be using that mount in an mATX case - the GPU barely fits in the case because the mount will add a couple of inches to its length.
Thanks for the great product!
Out of curiousity, I started googling and found these cases:
They look very compact and very clean with all aluminum construction. Looks like they're designed to sit horizontally though; not sure if that's an issue for you. The H60 is smaller, but based on reviews looks like it's maybe too short to house even low profile aftermarket coolers? The H80 is taller, but looks like it should have more clearance for more cpu cooling options.
I'm not very knowledgeable on frames benchmarking and all the latest monitors, so not sure I can really help on that.
I have my 2080 ti paired with a 1440p monitor @ only 60hz, since I don't play FPS games. Overkill, but I go for graphics quality on unoptimized engines (Skyrim, Fallout 4).
The Super models are improved versions of the existing non-super cards. The only ti model is the 2080 ti.
2080 ti is still the top GPU around and performance is notably increased over the 2070 Super, even over the 2080 Super (but less so, of course). It's also significantly more expensive.
For 1080p @ 75hz, all of those cards are overkill. At 1440p @ 75hz, I think the 2070 Super should be OK from what I've read; but it also depends on what games/applications you're using.
At 1440p @144hz with current games on very high settings, then the 2080 Super or ti would come into play.
Best bet is to research what games/applications you use and look for comparisons or reviews using the hardware you're considering.
Yes - they are pretty much just red/black switches, but quieter.
I used the cooler master vertical gpu mount. As an FYI, unless you have certain models of cooler master cases, you will need to cut the pcie bars on the back of your case. There’s no negatives other than cutting, but you should know that before you go down that route.
If cutting the bars off your case is a no go, you can get the cablemod bertical bracket, which doesn’t not require cutting your case. However, it will push the gpu a little closer to the front of the case.
If you do want to go mechanical, go with a keyboard with MX Silent Reds or Blacks. I replaced my keyboard in my office at work with a mechanical keyboard with Silent Reds and actually found it to be quieter than my old membrane keyboard. No matter how hard I type, it's quiet, whereas I can sometimes hear people down the hall in other offices pounding away on their typical membrane keyboards.
The clacking that you are referencing only happens on clicky type switches (like MX blue). MX Red and Black (and their silent versions) are not clicky and are not tactile (no bump that tells you when the switch has been activated) - so kind of like a membrane keyboard.
There are a bunch of keyboards that you can view with Silent Reds at mechanicalkeyboards.com.
If you are simply doing web browsing or light productivity/office work, you'll be fine using integrated graphics.
If you want to play modern games or do more demanding graphics work, you'll want a discrete GPU, as they require more processing power than integrated graphics can typically handle.
If you're on a budget and can't afford a GPU at the moment, a CPU with integrated graphics will at least let you use the computer for common tasks and drive a monitor or monitors until you can install a discrete GPU.
However, there is no real benefit to having both - if you're using a discrete graphics card, the integrated GPU is essentially disabled.
All the cases I can think of that have a standard vertical mounting solution for the GPU will effect temps, because they all place the GPU right next to the glass panel.
If you want a vertical GPU in your case, you'll want to buy an aftermarket vertical GPU mount, like from Cooler Master (which will require cutting your PCI-E bars unless you have a CM case) or the CableMod one (which doesn't require any mods to a case).
Your best bet is to purchase a switch tester - you can buy them on Amazon for $10-$15. That will give you an idea of the feel and sound of different switches.
Once you decide on that, there are a wide range of keyboards to explore. Everything from mainstream, like Razer, Corsair, Logitech, etc, to the more esoteric, like Ducky, Vortex, Varmillo, etc.
The benefit of the brands like Ducky is that they generally use a standardized keycap size, so keycaps you purchase don't have to be brand specific to fit the keyboard.
If you are looking for a mechanical keyboard, research ones with Cherry MX Silent Red switches. I have a Ducky One 2 TKL with Silent Reds and I'd say they are as quiet as a membrane keyboard.
Thanks for the comment! I figured the PCI-e riser would have caught the kids attention more, but only my wife commented on it when she saw it.
I hope my kids do show an interest in computers, but I'll be happy if they just become more proficient using PC's. If I'm really honest with myself, this was just a good excuse to let off some creative energy and build another computer.
Right? That's the next project - challenge accepted
Google "white keyboard" and you'll come up with a whole slew of options.
What's your budget? Do you want mechanical switches? The range of white keyboards and styles is almost infinite. Answer those questions and people will be better able to suggest items, or do your own research off of google.
Just to shoot off some ideas:
For mechanical keyboards, check out mechanicalkeyboards.com. They have a bunch of different options, ranging from $100 to $170+:
- Ducky One 2 Mini White RGB
- Ducky MIYA Pro Rainbow RGB
- Keycool 104 White Case RGB
- Vortex POK3R White Case RGB
- Vortex POK3R Silver LE Frosted White Border RGB
- Varmilo VA87M Double Rainbow 2 RGB
- Varmilo VA108M Double Rainbow 2 RGB
Amazon has a bunch of cheaper options as well.
Not the OP, but I do have the black version of this keyboard with red switches.
The keyboard is pretty nice - PCB board is attached to a metal place, while the lower case is plastic. Pretty solid and hefty board for being inexpensive. As mentioned before, it's a little bigger than 60% as it has arrow keys and an additional column of keys, but still compact.
The typing experience seems good to me - it's my office keyboard, so I type a lot more on it than my home gaming keyboard (Ducky One 2 TKL with MX Silent Reds); since that one is for gaming only and a different switch, I can't really compare; however, this E-Element boards does seems to have more "ping" in the keys and a more hollow sound when pressing keys - I added o-rings and dampened the case internally, so that took care of it a little.
The only downside I can think of is the RGB lighting and keycaps. The led is only on the top portion of the switch, so only lights up half of the keycaps and not especially bright - not really important for the office setting but something to consider if you want a light show. RGB settings seem a little different from the directions as well - I can't get the keyboard to stay lit up in one color. The keycap font is a little too "gamer-ish" for me, but only my opinion and easily rectified with new keycaps and others may
Not sure of the budget, but the Fractal Design Define R6 has decent airflow, provision for a drive bay/optical drive, and comes in a non-window version.
Edit: Browsing the parts selector, the Cougar MX330-X seems to fit the bill with a much lower price.
I have the R6 with 2 140mm fans on the bottom. No clearance issues. The cables coming out of the psu overlap the fan a little, but nothing major - the fan sits lower than where the cables come out so even if there were more overlap there still wouldn’t be an issue other than cables blocking more of the airflow. Helps that I have individually sleeved cables. If you check my most recent build, in one of the pics you can just make out the bottom fan next to the psu and cables. I can try to take a picture later for a clearer view.
I highly doubt that; all my research indicates it’s not possible for software to reverse fan direction, plus fans are shaped to turn in one direction; reversing direction would not be ideal I imagine.
Though it would be great if this were true, at least from the standpoint of getting the best lighting to show while getting proper airflow.
Can anybody with first hand experience confirm or deny?
I have one other comment though - it looks like all your fans are exhaust (no intake). If so, you’ll want to switch a few to intake
Nice build, setup, and theme!
Is the Imperial logo on the GPU fan hub a sticker, or something else?
Glad you got them working!
That's strange though that it wouldn't be compatible with Windows 10. I'm still curious enough to take a look at my settings to see if I had to change anything
I know this might be defeating the "smallest case" concept, but did you consider adding the small tophat with slim fans to the case during the build? Not sure how helpful it would be for cooling - just curious.
Not sure - it's always worked at 1920 x 1080p for me. I'd purchased it probably 7 years ago and ran Windows 7 up until 2017 when I switched to Windows 10. Everything seemed to work fine then.
I'll have to take a look sometime this week to see if i can remember doing anything special to adapt it.
You can mount 120mm or 140mm rads on the rear exhaust areas of some cases, but that's not what i meant.
What I'm referring to is that the radiator is mounted up top, but it's near the front case fans. If you look in the pictures, there is a big opening at the top of the case between the rear exhaust fan and the radiator - the radiator typically covers up the space where that gap is, so airflow comes in from the front and exits towards the rear. Guess the way it's mounted currently, the top intake fan could help get cool air directly to the radiator while the bottom intake directs air to the GPU.
Nice first build! I think that for $350 Canadian, what you've put together is excellent. The mentality of "should have gotten this instead, etc." exists, but that's how budgets get blown. There's always the next build, too.
Nice build! Any reason the radiator is mounted towards the front of the case and not towards the back?
Nice build! The arduino integration is very cool.
Do you have the most recent version of Asus Sync? I had issues with Asus Aura/Sync recognizing my video card as well, since I was running the original version that came with the motherboard. I downloaded the most recent Sync software and then everything was recognized.
Nice build! Never realized how much smaller the Louqe Ghost was in comparison to the NCase until I saw your pictures.
Thanks! I bought the i7-7700K in early 2017 - the Coffee Lake chips weren't available then. Otherwise, i probably would have gotten an 8700K.
I would disagree; my first card in the vertical mount idled around 40 at rest; just a bit over 60 under load. I gave that card to my sister and she is seeing about the same temperatures in a standard mount.
Other reviews using non-standard GPU vertical mounts show similar if not the same temperatures; sometimes lower.
It does matter how close to the glass it is, as tests using standard vertical gpu case mounts with the GPU next to the glass/acrylic do show markedly increased temperatures
This is a very cool build.
Does the refrigerator still function? Extra cooling...
Agreed - standard vertical mount placement on almost every case with the option places them too close to the glass/acrylic, cutting off air supply to gpu fans.
OP - it looks like you have the Cablemod vertical mount. How do you like it? Easy to install?
Actually, if you look at the images, the submitter is using an aftermarket vertical GPU mount - the card is mounted far from the tempered glass.
There will be little to no issue with cooling the card - (I've had 3 different gpu's mounted in an aftermarket vertical mount with no cooling issues) - at least due to mounting position.
Thanks! I don’t have the link currently, but it’s the Cooler Master vertical gpu mount (if you google it). You’ll have to modify the case, but it’s simply cutting the pci bars bars on the back of the case; they’re not essential to function, just visually filling in spaces between the bars.
Just an FYI - if you have a long PSU, you might cover up the mounting holes for the 2nd fan on the bottom, so you may want to check that - my PSU is 6.3" long, according to Newegg.
I'll try to take pics of the bottom position and post them. I'm using 140mm fans for all positions, and the fan closest to the PSU is very slight obscured by the cables coming off the PSU - probably helps that my cables are individually sleeved so that they bend out of the way more easily.
Good luck with the build! Interested in seeing it complete.
Thanks! Actually, 3 exhaust fans, push/pull on the radiator acting as intake, and 2 more intake on the bottom of the case
Thanks! I did use the CM Vertical GPU bracket for the reason you mentioned - better airflow. Sites that tested GPU's in the factory position next to the window all seemed to record much higher GPU temps, while users using the CM bracket showed little difference.
The bracket goes right in, but I did have to cut off the PCI dividing bars on the case so the GPU video ports are accessible - pretty straightforward with a Dremel. Despite what I've read online, it doesn't effect any future use of the PCI slots - if you remove the GPU bracket, you can still use components in any slot position. The dividing bars do nothing except to fill the gap between the PCI covers on the case.
The temps I've seen are pretty good. I really only play Skyrim and Fallout 4 and only at the most a couple of hours in one sitting so it's not very demanding on the system, but they are both heavily modded with lots of texture/graphics mods. The GPU gets up to about 63C and stays there - this is with the standard fan profile, where the fan turns on between 55-60C.
I do have 4 intake fans (2 from radiator) and 3 exhaust fans for the case though.
Nice build and photography!
I had a couple of the same issues - the lighting and HDD - as I also have an Asus motherboard and fractal R6 case
Lighting I replied above.
For the HDD, there are two spots on the panel when you go to the open air layout that you can mount an HDD - technically only for 3.5” drives, though I did jury rig one of the drive sleds with a 2.5” drive to fit in one spot and my 3.5” in the other, using the hardware and grommets that come with the case. I have some photos of it I’m uploading in a day or two - hopefully will give some ideas for you
I had the same issue with the lighting on my Asus motherboard and finally got around to doing something about it.
Run Asus Aura, then click the “Independent” tab. Choose “static” under the Power Off heading, then make sure the color selector is on black. The lighting on my motherboard now stays off after shutting down the computer.
It’s a terrible user interface and completely non-intuitive. Took me a while to figure out, even with the help of google.
I’m going to update my build with pictures in the next day or two, including a pic of the Aura program, if that helps
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback about the brightness of the Halos - I just ordered them. Looking forward to getting them and putting them in the case.
Great build - your computer looks awesome.
I've been thinking about getting Phanteks Halos for a while and your photos have pretty much convinced me to get them.
Question - I also have my computer next to my monitors and was just wondering how bright the LEDs are? Not sure if they would be distracting if shining right in my eye.
I know - old school, but I have lots of discs from back in the day (sentimental kind of thing).
Thanks for the comments.