SUCCESS! Thank you sir.
I somehow never knew about secpol.msc but now I'll remember this for future issues.
After those steps I exited steam on my systray and then started it again. Still had UAC come up.
It wasn't. I tried enabling that, and it still happens.
Even after totally exiting from Steam and then opening the shortcut again with "run as admin" checked, it still asks.
It's not running in compatibility mode currently. I had tried running it in 7 and 8 modes, with no change.
How do you know the mobo turned on? a LED light, I presume?
It is still possible that you have a bad part (whether it is the PSU or mobo) but the easiest potential fix is to double check that all of your wiring is correct. Take some close-up pictures etc. Post them on this forum and also on reddit.com/r/buildapc for some help with that.
Either way you'll want to do this quickly so you don't lose your RMA period if it does turn out to be a bad part.
You didn't turn the power supply from 110 to 220 V did you? If so, the entire thing is fried.
If not, my first suspect would be a dead PSU. You can test the PSU with a multi meter or just try booting the PC with a different PSU.
Judging by the rest of the comments, you might be on to something here.
If I have my facts straight...
If the above are all true, I am leaning toward this being a hardware problem. You could verify this by booting to a boot disc and running a speed test from there.
But really, your best bet is probably to just buy a new network adapter for your PC so you don't have to replace the entire mobo. This is of course assuming that there are no other problems with it.
Do you mean that when you touch the case, you get static shocked? No, that is NOT normal! If that is the case, you are having serious electrical issues.
You need a much better surge protector, and need to leave your PC unplugged while not in use. In fact I'd recommend leaving it unplugged altogether until you can get your electrical problems sorted out.
I'm no electrician so I can't tell you if the problem is with your home's wiring or the cables outside. What you need to do immediately is call your electric provider and tell them about the problems you're having with the power outages and current problems.
The isn't just a PC issue, it's a fire hazard!
I prefer Macrium Reflect, myself. It has a lot of really good features. There is a paid version and a free version. The free version lets you do full image backups only, while the paid version lets you do scheduled file backups of any kind. Totally flexible and very reliable.
A good alternative is Cobian, which is totally free. It has a similar set of features but I've found it to be slightly less reliable. Still perfectly usable, but needs a little more babysitting.
That can be very bad for your PC. Improper shutdowns once in a while are not a big deal, but every night can cause damage to your OS and possibly even the drive itself.
Not to mention electrical damage to the other components when the power comes back on with a surge. I hope you have a good surge protector!
There are a few things you can do to protect against this.
Most easily, you can just shut your PC down and unplug it when not in use. This way it's less likely to be affected by power losses and surges.
In addition, you may even want to get a smart uninterruptible power supply (smart-UPS) that will allow your computer to run on battery for a few minutes, just long enough to automatically shut it down.
Also you may want to talk to your electric utility provider and see if there's something they can do about the power problems.
Sounds like the CHKDSK utility was running. There are two things that could've caused this:
Improper shutdown. Maybe your power went out for a minute and the PC didn't shut down properly, so windows is just checking the drive as a precaution. Let it finish; it will only need to scan once if this is the case.
Maybe a failing hard drive. Make a full image backup immediately just in case this is what is happening! Regular backups are a necessary precaution no matter what, but now you especially want to keep your data safe. CHKDSK may run nearly every time you start up, if this is the case. I recommend using hard drive health checking software to see if this is what is happening.
If your drive is indeed failing, buy a new one and restore the backup onto it.
Possibly malware or a virus. Scan everything with multiple utilities to be sure.
Yep. Believe it or not that's exactly how it works.
Anyone who has or buys a PC with Win 7 / 8 / 8.1 will have until July of next year to claim their permanent upgrade.
Incorrect precisely how?
Chrome is a memory hog and pretty slow lately, but not normally that bad. I wonder if it's a plug-in/add-on/extension that you are running? How many tabs are open in chrome and what is on them?
Another user had a good suggestion to check the task manager and sort by memory to see which application is hogging the most. It is probably chrome. Try restoring chrome to the default settings, or just reinstalling it altogether. Also try using IE or Firefox and see if they perform better. (And yes I know, IE sucks, but it's not nearly as bad as it used to be and is perfectly fine for testing this problem)
I am also curious about this. I wonder if there are any reliable wireless keyboards that work more than 3' away from the PC.
I got the Logitech MK270 Combo and it's kind of junk. The mouse works fine for the most part as long as it's on a perfect mouspad, but the keyboard is absolute trash. It's only 8-10' away from my living room gaming/HTPC and still has horrible lag. It'll appear to work fine until suddenly it stops working at all for about 30 seconds. It's awesome when this happens right in the middle of a game!
edit: Oh crap it's the highest rated wireless keyboard on PCPartpicker. Time to look for a really long USB extension chord.
For **** sake
OP asked for wireless, these are all wired.
Ah. Yeah I always assume those aren't coming. I still send the request just in case but still don't factor it into the cost.
I'm sorry, what do you mean by MiR? What is the advantage of the other cooler?
Edit: thanks btw
Hm.. I will have to review this. Thanks!
PCMR never fails
To the OP: Careful with CCleaner. It's a great tool but this and other system cleaners can cause damage if you make a mistake while using them.
My first instinct is yes, because McAfee is awful. Or at least it was 5+ years ago when I stopped using it, and haven't looked back since!
I'd say you could test this by disabling McAfee temporarily, but even then that would be a waste of time because there's always the chance that even while disabled it would leave some services running in the background and slowing your system down. I say this because McAfee is pretty widely considered to be crapware nowadays.
Best course of action is to uninstall it (not as easy as it sounds, there are 3rd party apps designed specifically to help with this).
Then replace it with bitdefender or Avast.
Even that isn't always necessary though; Windows 7 has the option of installing the free "Microsoft Security Essentials" which is barebones but sufficient, and Windows 8 and further have the same thing built in already (under the name "Windows Defender").
What's wrong with the SSD and PSU? The reviews are very positive for both, and they fit the needs of the system. Is there something I missed about these?
We need more of this kind of honesty!
Yep, and I'm excited about it!
Anyone who has windows 7 or 8 will be seeing this soon. You have 1 year to claim it, and if you do, your current license becomes a Windows 10 license. It will upgrade your system to the new OS.
Don't jump right into it though, check your system requirements and wait for some reviews. I recommend "reserving" it now but waiting a bit before you upgrade.
No, you won't be able to do that.
The way the windows 10 upgrade works, is that it permanently upgrades an existing windows 7/8 license to 10 and provides you with the setup files. Chances are, your laptop's windows key is "OEM" and is permanently linked to that computer's hardware so the license key will not work on the new computer.
You'll be able to create a restore disc for windows 10, but if you tried to use the restore disc to install 10 on the new desktop, it will work until it asks you to activate the license. It will then reject it.
Avast is great, and free (though there is a paid version with additional features). Microsoft Security Essentials is also great and free and very easy to use. On Windows 8 it's already built in but with a different name (Windows Defender).
Never buy McAfee or Norton. Kaspersky has a good reputation but I personally have found that it can be a little finicky on some systems.
Personally I feel that the best defense (beyond safe browsing habits) is to have one of Avast/MSE/WDef for real time protection and also to have both MalwareBytes and Super Anti Spyware for removal/preventive scans.
In your browsers, install adblock plus and noscript (and possibly ghostery) to help prevent hostile ads from slipping malware onto your machine. Learn how to use them properly! They will occasionally interfere with some sites so don't freak out if your bank statement popup doesn't show, for example. Just disable them, refresh and try again.
Also consider disabling adblock permanently on some trustworthy sites, since it blocks their income and you may or may not feel bad about that.
He's probably talking about the blogspam articles that misinterpreted a MS spokesperson's quote as meaning that MSE was no longer supported or trusted.
It was all nonsense, MSE is still perfectly fine.
Sorry if you've already tried this, but did you only press del once?
I usually tap the everloving hell out of it until the computer beeps angrily to let me know "YES I HEARD YOU JEEZ I GET IT".
Also try the same thing again with different startup option keys like F2, F10, etc. just in case. And F8 to get into safe mode (just to prove whether you can or not). If none of these work, I'd say there's definitely a problem.
Could be a bad PSU. It's obviously producing some power, but that doesn't necessarily mean it can power the computer. Try testing the PSU!
Yeah I figured anything under $300 isn't going to have much future-proofing in it but it may be worth it. I'd think of it as basically a Roku box that also lets me play Steam without hauling my giant desktop into the living room.
Cool, good advice thanks. Once SteamOS gets the ability to play media files, it'll be perfect! I guess until then I could just dual-boot with Ubuntu.
Do you know much about the Intel NUC? I'm intrigued because they're just so small.
There's always the off chance that they're actually right, though. DOA products do happen sometimes, and you'll never be totally certain whether it's his fault or not. So do you make him go through the RMA process? Do you think he'll cooperate? And if not, when you're left to do it yourself, will you know how to diagnose and remove the offending part since you didn't install it to begin with?
And worse yet, he could make mistakes that aren't immediately apparent, and then he could be conveniently unavailable when you later wonder why your computer is gradually running hotter and hotter. There are so many things that can go wrong.
Point is, it's a bad idea unless you have a good relationship with the person and they have a good amount of experience and skill with building PCs.
Now you're talking scary! Getting someone else to do it could be a disaster and a half.
Building a computer is not particularly difficult when compared to assembling Ikea furniture, but the components can very easily be ruined by a careless person (say, a teenager or some guy from craigslist).
There is only one person who is emotionally invested in this computer running well, and only one person who has personally spent money on the parts; in other words, only person who can be trusted to put it together. That's you!
What I'm getting at is that other people aren't attached to your computer the way you are. They can easily make a mistake and blame it on the manufacturer, go home and sleep easy with your money in their pocket. You'd never even know the difference!
My recommendation is to watch several guides on youtube, read a few articles, and get comfortable with the idea. When the parts start arriving, read the manuals for how to install them. And ask questions here (and/or elsewhere) if you're not sure about something!
The most important part is to watch out for static electricity. The most common two mistakes people make are placing parts on top of their static bags to rest, and forgetting to screw the standoffs (spacers) into your case before installing the motherboard.
I don't know, but the prospect scares the hell out of me!
It's all good, it's really easy to forget we're talking to real people. I do it too.
Well since you deleted the comment I don't have to anymore. Better luck next time, good sir.
I was criticizing the person who insulted his build.
Very bad grammar, no sentence structure at all, unoriginal username, and general hostile attitude. I give this comment 2 stars out of 5.
I know this isn't the most professional answer, but if the mobo is actually running at 230 F then it should be dangerously hot to the touch. Shut down, unplug, ground yourself, and reach into the case. If the inside is about as hot as a nearly preheated oven, you know that reading is correct! Otherwise it's probably an error.
The built-in video on your motherboard will work just fine for basic stuff like watching youtube videos and playing browser games. But for bigger games like Skyrim, you will definitely need a video card. The bigger the better!
Important: Make sure your power supply can handle the video card that you choose! It'll need to have at least one of the correct PCIe cable and of course will need to have enough wattage to power the card. Also it's better to round up from how much wattage PCPartPicker tells you that you need.
Choosing between AMD and Intel will affect the performance and price of your computer, but it will not affect the compatibility of your games (or any other software).
As long as the system is strong enough to handle it, the game will run.
edit: As far as the difference between intel and AMD, I personally prefer Intel. It tends to have the highest benchmarks (which you can see in the benchmarks section on this site). And that AMD 8-core CPU may seem badass because it has twice the cores, but games are typically optimized for 4 cores or less; they won't use the extra 4. The leftover cores will still be useful for running other apps during the game, like recording software if you run a "let's play" show on youtube or something.
The video card will matter more than the CPU, but it does matter. And it really depends on the specific CPU that you're talking about. A latest generation i3 will do a lot more than an old athlon, for instance, even if they have the same # of cores and similar frequency.
Oh that makes more sense. I was wondering what was up with those drives compared to the rest of this build. You might wanna make a note of that or mark them as pre-purchased! Not that it matters much though.
Missing the point? This is the first time you've explained what your point even is! The most descriptive you've gotten so far is "Have you ever heard of resistance" and "you have a crap TV and a crap PSU". These do not describe the problem in any meaningful way whatsoever.
That being said, I'll tone down the snarkiness from this point forward.
I do however still believe that you're off the mark. The TV gives a "signal not supported" error, while the monitors do not. This means that his video card is providing a clear signal. It has enough power to do so. This means that the PSU/TV combination is not to blame. Due to the wording of the error on the TV, and the reproducible nature of the problem, I am much more inclined to believe that this is an incompatibility issue between the TV and the video card or its drivers. Heck, it could even be a bad HDMI port on the TV.
And while the OP's problem is not yet reported to have been resolved, I (and other users) have provided much more likely explanations for the problem.
You are really determined to misdiagnose this problem and misunderstand what I'm saying, aren't you? Re-read my comments and pay closer attention this time.
Of course it uses electricity to carry a signal. What the HDMI cable does not do, and you should know this, is provide power to the TV. I'll repeat myself: The TV has its own power supply. It does not draw additional power from the computer's power supply. The amount of electricity used to carry the A/V signal through the HDMI cable is miniscule and insignificant. This is the same regardless of what screen it is connected to.
Power-wise, it does not matter if the HDMI cable is connected to an 80 inch plasma or a 19" LCD monitor. The size and brand of TV/Monitor do not affect the wattage pulled through the power supply. If the power supply works with one, it will work with another.
Yes. Explain to me how the HDMI cable carries electricity from the PSU to the TV.
Oh baloney. Just because those are (supposedly) crap brands does not mean that they will specifically not work together, when they work fine with everything else.
If the power supply wasn't strong enough, the computer would fail either all the time or during high load. The TV, regardless of brand, does not magically pull more wattage through the HDMI port, causing the PSU to become overdrawn. The TV has its own power supply. There is no way that the computer's PSU is to blame.
Most likely, the video card's drivers aren't working with the TV. This could be the fault of the manufacturer (which could very well be a bad brand like you say) or it could be the fault of the video card. Best thing to do is update the drivers, contact support, or try it with a different TV.