You current PC is plenty fast. "May" be on paper that the new consoles are indeed better in some spot, but its largely a moot point, if they have any exclusive games (though less and less with Xbox game pass now on PC also) and you enjoy consoles then sure.
Don't get a console for sake of getting it because it "may" be faster then your current PC. If your current PC is fulfilling your needs and has everything available in terms of games, then no need to bother with consoles.
The CPU thread element is true, it is a 16 thread part, but once again, largely moot element to look at just in terms of paper specs, your 9700k is solid. If for whatever reason it grates on you can always upgrade a pc....... (Not that I would if your needs are being met)
All good then :)
Don't upgrade for sake of it in that case, keep it and when it starts failing to meet your needs, then review the situation.
Question really is, does it do everything you want it to do in terms of achieving performance goals? If so then its fine. Of course technologically its pretty old with multiple generations out now that far outclass it, even at the entry level, but if it does what you need then its fine really.
Well what is your budget, resolution, refresh rate? easier to ask that question then compare to the performance of two 980Ti's as said performance largely varies depending on the game.
A 980Ti is around 15% slower then a RTX 2060 for context: https://youtu.be/fZPPFVajqvA?t=532
So for strict double performance your probably looking at 2080Ti performance with perfect scaling. However given that SLI does not scale perfectly and work in all games need to account for that. Hence be easier really to understand the first question, budget, resolution and refresh rate IMO.
No not really.
Go single card solution when you can to ensure you get the full benefit consistently and in case of 980Ti, you most certainly can given we are a few generations on now.
Either sell the single 980Ti you have and pick up a single card solution and don't bother contemplating picking up a pair if you have none.
Mass effect trilogy - spectacular fun massive and deep story, choices carry over three games etc. Game number one feels a little bit dated IMO, but 2 and 3 are great fun.
Witcher series - IMO can start fine with just number 3, its such a step above the other two and easily 100 or so hours content anyways. Can read back story for prior 2.
Dragon Quest 11 - this is a JPRG, but absolutely amazing IMO.
Dues Ex series (recent two games IMO)
If I had to pick one, go with Mass effect trilogy, amazing games and so much content.
I would not.
You also neglected to mention your CPU, 8700k while it does use power, there are ones on the market that can consume more now.
Personally if with a modest OC on a 8700k and pair of 2080TIs out the box peak at near 800 watts, would defo not pick a 800w PSU, more so as I say if you get a CPU which does consume more power, you want more headroom and to sit at a more efficient point then near maxed out continuously or above depending on CPU choice.
Just my two cents, either go single 2080Ti or scale up your PSU more adequately.
There is no PSU with RGB cables. There are also no aftermarket RGB cables you can buy.
There is however Lian-Li's Strimmer products which are extension products with a RGB layer on top available for 24pin and PCIe (6+2): http://www.lian-li.com/cables-2/ or google it for your local region accordingly.
Nothing much really.
I often worked from home managing my teams, and nothing has changed in that regards aside the team members now working from also. If anything free time has been reduced as the team who sat side by side on there work, now do everything via conference calls which leads to inefficiency, hence spend more of my day working more hours to do the same amount of work.
I do not go gym any longer which sucks, but fortunately have a basic one build in my garage. I also tend to go for walks. Seems no one in my area walks fortunately, its a pretty quiet area anyways and if I see someone on one side of the pavement then I cross the road to other side to just minimise contact. Likely over the top, but meh.
Socialising has taken a hit however and have had a few weddings I was attending cancelled now.
A assume you mean by NVLINK 2080Ti, you mean looking at running a pair?
What other components do you envisage to use? a 9700k has a much different power profile vs a threadripper of X299 CPU etc.
You can see her for example a rig with a 8700k @ 5Ghz and pair of 2080Ti's in NVLINK can sit at around 750 watts or so, with some higher peeks: https://www.tweaktown.com/articles/8741/geforce-rtx-2080-ti-nvlink-4k-120fps-gaming-now-here/index10.html
You CPU will change the equation more depending on what it is also, but either way, as you would expect, will need to be fairly beefy.
I agree with Manrelli's post.
No thanks, would rather keep RGB. While not a fan of differing RGB at the same time, I do enjoy mixing it up. As pointed out, likely helps manufactures also, make a base neutral colour component, then add RGB on so you can add colour to the system that way rather then being shoehorned into a particular colour. Very much a personal choice and I rather it be there then not.
If you don't like RGB, simply turn it off or buy components without RGB (granted more higher end stuff comes with it, but option to turn off is almost always there). I like RGB in general, even if the majority of time my systems use white illumination.
I will add though, I do hope we see some uniformity to sync stuff. Am aware each brand want to keep you in your ecosystem, but it does work great when they work together. With Corsair and ASUS motherboards now being able to sync, it is neat getting my ASUS based builds to sync fully with my Corsair peripherals. Would love to see more of that.
Not begrudging you for getting liquid cooling for aesthetics, heck reason why I did it for my builds, mostly just around the performance element in relation to your question about cost.
I would not say a custom loop is hard per say, just need to do some planning and if doing hardline tubing and bending it, prepare to learn and get some wrong. Just do things methodically and you will be fine.
in terms of price, it can really depend on parts you choose. You CPU block for example in itself can very in price significantly, the fittings etc. Can make a simple loop for couple of $200 or so and on the other hand easily spend that much on a CPU block alone.
To be honest in terms of overclocking, unless your talking about a massive / power hungry CPU, there are plenty of GPUs on the market that come with some really good thermal solutions and likewise the CPU has plenty of solid cooling options around. So from a strict overclocking perspective, unless your pushing to the wall don't expect massive gain in performance with the extra head room afforded (unless as I say its a power hungry CPU).
Stunning work, love how the copped stands out on the tube, looks fantastic.
Its largely personal preference, as long as your using the outlet on the pump / res combo then everything else is largely however you want aesthetically. The multiple inlets on the ports are there for allowing you options mostly and provide flexibility. One component which you will want to orient correctly is the CPU block, as per manual for that CPU block the right hand thread location (with corsair logo facing down) is the inlet. This is due to the orientation of the Jet plate.
With that said, have you considered possibly a distribution plate at all? The Lian-Li Dynamic series has so many sweet distribution plates, case almost seems designed with them in mind. The pair of remaining 360mm radiators left would not have any issues keeping a GPU and CPU cool, even when overclocked while staying quiet.
If not for a simple loop, could go from, Pump/RES --> CPU block inlet, CPU Block Outlet --> Top radiator --> GPU block --> bottom radiator, radiator on mount, then back into the Pump /Res. This is just an example, can go plenty of other ways with this build to meet your aesthetic needs.
Ah fair enough mostly because you said:
"I'm aiming towards a 1080p ultrawide with the budget I have."
Sounded to me you had a budget in mind to work with but neglected to mention it. 1080 ultrawide, even with your filters you mention run from $149 up to nearly a $1000. Anyways, most your requirements do have fillters which may help, following is 1080p ultrawide, with a form of framesync, IPS and Non-Curved. It mentions response time also:
However two of your requirements contradict one another. The high FPS and non-curved so will need to give up one of the other. It appears most gaming panels are the ones which are high refresh rate, but similarly also curved for 1080p ultrawide. (remove the curved parameter from search above and it will show monitors 100hz +, limit to flat panels and no panels will go up to 100hz)
What budget do you have exactly, not mentioned that.
think I remember hearing that too. If it's true, can anyone tell me which ones become unusable on my motherboard?
think I remember hearing that too. If it's true, can anyone tell me which ones become unusable on my motherboard?
There is a dependency on the board and platform so always should consult the boards manual. In some instances there can be conflict.
However x570 has a pretty capable chip set and more specifically in this case, all three M.2 slots on that motherboard are fully capable of PCIe Gen 4 x 4 lanes. So will handle the quickest drives on the market.
As per page 32 of the manual: http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_x570-aorus-master_1002_190708_e.pdf there are 3 M.2 slots on the board. The top two M.2 slots will not have any conflict in terms of disabling SATA ports. If you populate the third M.2 slots also, then it will disable 2 of the 6 SATA 3 slots (specifically SATA port 4 and 5). So in your instance, no issue.
No one has confirmation on the 3080 or whatever its called release date.
Personally, does not make sense to buy parts now and only finish the build when the next generation of GPUs released which an unknown, more so when your prior topics mention your picking up a 3700x which has no build in GPU so will render the build unusable until you get a GPU in (or plug in a interim one).
Just need to account for the fact that inevitably, something new and shiny will come along.
If your in no rush and your current cards meets your needs, then no point buying 2080s for sake of it. Upgrade as and when your current stuff no longer meets your need, your happy with the price and if buying a GPU a fair bit way through its life cycle, know something new and shiny will inevitably be released.
Wow, very nice work. I had fun fitting similar radiators in the larger version, but you managed it in the smaller one!
Fantastic look and execution.
All settings maxed in every game, no. However if the title is well optimised or drop some demanding settings then yes 60 FPS for most the part will be achievable.
To provide some context, 2560 x 1440 is around 3.7 megapixels, 3440 x 1440 is around 4.8 megapixels, so increase of 30% in pixel count. Could as a rough guide look at 5700x benchmarks then subtract around 30% of the FPS after looking at reviews for the card. Bare in mind most reviews do max setting out.
I care about politics as it does and has affected my life. Here in the UK there has been significant impact at times due to whoever is in power. Right now we have a liars conservatives in power who I feel mislead most of the country in voting to leave the EU. The vote was partly to bring back in line other Conservative members which massively backfired thanks to a mix of lies and ambition of some members.
As a result I have lost my ability to more easily live, work and travel to 27 other countries which I have been able to since I was born and did take advantage of.
This is just one example of how politics has affected me, plenty of prior ones also did so I do have an interest.
The idea of the QVO is to act as an entry level solution that is cheaper to manafacture using quad level cells. The EVO and EVO plus are using triple level cells but there are some benefits to it and they do have a longer warrenty, 5 years vs 3 years with the QVO.
However performance wise your unlikely to see a difference usually. However when tranfering larger files the QVO's cache does cause problems and you will see the througput drop if you hit a certain point: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13633/the-samsung-860-qvo-ssd-review/2
Personally, if your opting for a 2.5" drive at 1TB, grab the MX500 https://pcpartpicker.com/product/h3tQzy/crucial-mx500-1tb-25-solid-state-drive-ct1000mx500ssd1 same price as the 1TB QVO, so $50 cheaper then the Evo/+ without the downside listed above, generally slightly faster performance across the boards as per that article above which also has the MX500 1TB in it and a full 5 year warranty.
Now with all that said, if you do have a modern motherboard, you could grab a M.2 NVME drive as test19 mentioned. You can actually get ones which are a few $ more then the above two such as Mushkin Pilot for $135 so $20 more https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JHxbt6/mushkin-pilot-e-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mknssdpe1tb-d8 which will perform better in most situations. https://www.tomshardware.com/uk/reviews/mushkin-pilot-e-m.2-nvme-ssd,6345-2.html there are even some cheaper M.2 drive such as Crucial P1 at the same price as the QVO and MX500 1TB, but performance is not quiet there.
A Gallon is not 159 litres regardless of if the gallon in question is imperial / US etc
But yeah, would be wars basically over it. If you used say a imperial gallon which is bigger at around 4.5 litres and a person needs a litre a year, that would only be 4 people able to be changed per year.
21 year old self but only for a year
21 year old self but only for a year
Ohhh and what if the person was already younger then 21, would they grow older :O
RGB everything :D
Thats a neat looking and very clean build. Love the helix's in the res and custom loop execution. Great stuff easy +1
yep that is one of the examples that Corsair does, that is the Corsair commander Pro. In addition to having the lighting hub, it also has connection for the fan headers (and some for tempo sensors) so corsair iCUE will control it all. There is a cheaper lighting node pro that is just the aRGB part for corsair fans which will manage the lighting but then the fans will need to be connected to your motherboard.
You want the res prior to pump, idea of res aside from looking cool is to keep the pump fed with water.
so Res --> Pump inlet
There is not going to be a lawsuit. AMD will likely have quiet words behind the scene and no doubt to an extent this sort of stuff happens but is kept quiet. While not ideal to air dirty laundry in this fashion, its not in either AMD's nor ASUS's interest to go into a lawsuit.
The other aspect is, exactly on what merit would the lawsuit be? ASUS pointed out AMD recommended PSI which as you say was relatively low for their cards with larger heat sinks, that is not a false statement as that is what they were recommended. Really this is egg on the face of ASUS as they should have thoroughly tested the cards and that is self inflicted wound because the above was exactly that, guidance. So yes while they are somewhat shifty rather then putting thier hands up and owning it entirely, there is no grounds for it to really go further in a legal sense.
Its all moot however as that does not affect the 2070 Strix
Depends as I say on the fans. In case of the corsair LL fans, its quiet straight forward actually, you do not need a ARGB header. Reason is the corsair fans connect to Corsair's own Lightning node Hub. This in turn connects directly to the motherboard via a USB 2.0 internal header and managed via corsair's iCUE software. Other brands such as NZXT are also similar.
Looking at the upHere kit, that would not work out the box, then fans seem to connect to a simple hub which in turn connects to a ARGB header. basically you need a solution which negates the need for a aRGB header like corsair/ NZXT etc.
Correct, that board does not have a Addressable RGB header. Addressable RGB header and a normal 12v RGB header are fundamentally different, so not interchangeable.
What ARGB fans are you looking at. Some may have a Hub into which you hook into the motherboard via usually a USB 2.0 header and then use software to control the fans.
Quiet simple, is it failing to accomplish any goals / tasks you have in mind? Usually good idea to understand if its actually handicapping any performance goals you have as it is.
If your are limited in terms of performance, what is your goals, budget etc.
There are plenty of PWM fan hubs. They will manage multiple fans and be powered via molex / SATA.
Only one PWM fan however, the primary fan will be read by the motherboard and speed controlled accordingly, however if the fan all have similar characteristics, then its not an issue.
Here is an example, controls up to 10 fans, power via SATA: https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=PWM+Fan+hub&qid=1582630088&sr=8-4 for $15
Though with that said, motherboards are usually well equipped on the slightly higher end chipsets. Can see you mentioned z390 Ace in prior topics. That has CPU fan header, 5 x fan headers and an additional one that doubles up as fan header / water pump. So 6 Fan headers in all, so if you went with 6 fans only as you mentioned, then would not be an issue in addition to a CPU cooler. If you go for 9 fans, just grab a splitter, for a few fans. Most fan headers will not have an issue with a pair of typical fan's off a single header. When you start opting for ones that draw more will you want to avoid that.
It should as mentioned have slight difference. If not, just install windows with the Evo plus installed and then then plug in the 970 Evo after. The bottom M.2 slot is pretty accessible to install after the fact unless you have over a 3 slot GPU in top slot / two GPUs.
When the PC no longer meets my needs / demands.
However, its wise IMO to also employ smart measures. While maxing / setting everything to ultra may sound nice, the reality is some games are overly demanding or optimised so using ultra vs say very high may mean your then dipping under a constant 60 FPS. Makes much more sense to just tweak the game IMO, more so as moving down a setting on the higher side usually makes little visual impact.
Probably need to look at it in terms of %, so as can be seen here at 4k the 2080Ti is about 19% ahead in gauntlet of games and about 15% at 1440p: https://youtu.be/cxuoDyjemdA?t=640
Next the 2080 Super and 2080Ti use different cores, not just a matter of the 2080Ti having extra power / voltage. It has a bigger core, so at the same clock speed will out perform the 2080 Super. Similarly when overclocking, its partly down to the silicon lottery, but in terms of frequency, both will typically reach a similar level of around 2000 - 2100 Mhz with some samples either side. However the 2080Ti will still usually perform better as it has a bigger core.
In terms of price, to be fair you can get some solid 2080Ti models for around $1100 like the strix or gaming trio. Fundamentally however, is it worth it from a price to performance increase, no not really, but the simple fact is, its a Halo product (for the gaming stack at least) and with no competition therefore you pay a premium for the best. This is not unique really and companies in such a position will charge what they want knowing people are willing to pay top dollar, even if the price / performance ratio is somewhat diminished.
Read and look at reviews. Cannot simply compare architectures in a easy manor by just looking at say clock speed for example. plenty of factors contribute to the CPU's overall performance, which in itself varies depending on the task.
If the specific example your looking at is not available, look at a similar CPU to get a gauge. The 4790k for example may tend to pop up in comparisons vs the 4790 (non-k). Here for example is a recent review of the 4790k (and 4690k) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6RsDyMn2gY
If you want to sync all of the lighting on the motherboard and Corsair devices, then yes. As mentioned, only recent drivers at the start of the year allow iCUE to also manage motherboard lighting on select ASUS motherboards in sync: https://www.guru3d.com/news-story/corsair-brings-icue-lighting-control-to-asus-motherboards.html
Can confirm it works as I now have my corsair Ecosystem synced with two ASUS boards (X299 Rampage and z390i)
However, the above is just for syncing the two ecosystems. You can have iCue with your gigabyte board as mentioned to control the corsair fans on the case, then another piece of software to control the Gigabyte lighting. So you will be able to change the lighting, just not sync them.
Ahhh yeah, okay they will not connect with one another.
The Corsair fans will connect to a corsair lighting node Pro unit which in turn connect to a internal USB header on your motherboard. You will then have to use iCUE to manage corsair peripherals.
the Gigabyte motherboard will needs its own software to control the RGB lighting on the board and any devices you connect up to it.
The only manufacture who recently introduced cross compatibility was Corsair and ASUS so can sync some lighting systems between them.
What motherboard and case do you have, all varies. In general most recent motherboards will have RGB headers to allow you to plug in RGB peripherals. Similarly some cases have RGB header that plugs into motherboards which will allow you to control RGB together. but this is at a high level and as I say, varies.
Yeah LG comes with some software the works well. I did until recently when I got rid of my LG panel. Worked great as you can split it up in various configs. I did one large panel taking up the left hand side of the screen, then two small panes on the right side, with one showing E-mails and other misc documents, this video shows what I mean better then I am describing: https://www.lg.com/us/support/video-tutorials/ultrawide-monitor:-4-screen-split-monitor-CT10000018-1441921251016
Not used anything recently now not working from home as often, but there is some stuff that will work similar, AFAIK been recommended this one, but not yet tried it: https://www.ivanyu.ca/windock/
Personally would get the same monitor if buying from the onset given your planning to use them both heavily rather then the second one as a simple peripheral panel, or at least get similar sizes, granted different story if you already have one monitor then buy another, but not the case here.
The refresh rate is the same on both panels you picked, but other elements are different. I assume given the difference in size your not going to game on the second one in which case to be honest I would go for a 27" 1080p panel at lower refresh rate then 24" at higher refresh rate.
You could as others mention grab a 3440 x 1440 panel at 34" which would offer pretty similar real estate to a 27" 1440p panel and a 24" 1080p panel you listed but in a single package. Works well for working from home IMO ( I use one for that) and also great for gaming. Can get software which splits the screen nicely, LG monitors have the functionality built in which segments up your screen which works really well for working from home IMO.
But just my two cents, For working, environment, everyone has their own preference / priority.
Both are solid models. It is largely down to the cooler really and in this case, both are very good. Just grab whichever is cheaper.
3d guru has a review of both for more details:
Personally I just use Windows built in stuff (assuming its 10) the safest way to protect you PC will be to employ common sense and avoid sketchy sites etc. Malwarebytes is a good complementary kit to pick up however, there is a free version and would be worth scanning your PC now and then with it.
Precision Boost Overdrive. Gamers nexus has a good article covering the topic: https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3491-explaining-precision-boost-overdrive-benchmarks-auto-oc
Personal preference, but for myself went 3440 x 1440 when resolution first came out, nearly half a decade ago and moved up to higher refresh rate ones like the X34 and have 0 regrets. For gaming at a desk, the extra horizontal pixels really do add immersion and most games support the resolution well these days.
The 2080S will pair really well with something like a X34.
Congrats on the first build, looks great.
According to NZXT's product page, the H710i can fit EATX up to 272mm: https://www.nzxt.com/products/h710i-matte-white
The X570 Aorus Extreme is 270mm wide: https://www.aorus.com/X570-AORUS-XTREME-rev-10#pd_spec
So should work, but will be tight.
As your in UK, would look at the following: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/tTCFf7/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-2070-super-8-gb-windforce-oc-3x-video-card-gv-n207swf3oc-8gd
Its actually one of the cheapest 2070S models around from the CCL vendor (£10 more then absolute cheapest) but neat thing is, the Windforce 3x cooler on it is actually pretty capable. It will keep the card both cool and quiet when you look at reviews. May not be the prettiest and have the most RGB zones, but from a price perspective in relation to cooling / acoustical properties, its a very nice model. Kitguru has done a review on it: https://www.kitguru.net/components/graphic-cards/dominic-moass/gigabyte-rtx-2070-super-gaming-oc-8g-review/16/ can see for example it shaves 10 degrees or so off under load vs the 2070S Founder model while being just over 3db quieter.
Looking at one of your prior part lists in another thread, appears you listed it, so seems a model you already considered, hopefully above affirms its a solid model.
Great work, love some of these different bents. More impressive being your first custom loop build from your comments so totally understandable it took 3 boxes! but end result is defo unique!