I am using the regular non AMD version of G.Skill F4-3200C14D-16GTZR (2x 8GB, CL14) on a MSI B350 Tomahawk Arctic and two sets of F4-3200C14Q-32GTZR (4x 8GB per set, CL14) in another build (Quad channel on Threadripper). Both systems operate their RAM at 3200Mhz with stock XMP settings.
Even though support for other RAM chips has been greatly improved over the last 12 months, the CL14 variant of G.Skill's Trident Z RGB gives you the biggest chance of success since it is always fitted with Samsung B-Die RAM chips, that are still the most compatible match for Ryzen.
I am not really experienced with manual RAM overclocking myself, but you could try to increase DRAM voltage a little bit. Most XMP profiles use 1.35V for anything higher than 2666 MHz. Also your RAM seems to be CL15, give it a try with CL16 instead of CL14.
Unplug the PSU and remove the CMOS battery for a few minutes or do a CMOS reset as described in your motherboard manual. Both solutions will reset your BIOS changes to default values and should allow you to get into BIOS.
The onboard graphics connectors are dead unless your CPU comes with a integrated GPU. Ryzen 5 1600 has no integrated GPU. Install a GPU and try again.
Does the radiator get warm at all?
First make sure that you have used the correct stand-off screws and that the pump block makes good contact with the CPU.
If it makes good contact It is possible that either the pump motor is running free due to a failed pump impeller or there is a air bubble trapped inside the pump.
Windows 7 install media lacks the required USB drivers for modern systems. Either install windows 10 or search google on how to create a windows 7 installer that includes the required drivers.
Yes, leave it at default (maximum) size.
You should be able to format the unallocated drive from disk management window. (right click on unallocated disk space -> Format)
Which cooler? Make sure the backplate (if any) is in place.
Yes, you are safe to reapply thermal paste.
I've just noticed that you've linked ITX boards, in that case the X370 only offers an extra USB Header.
Edit: Not really worth it then.
Here is a comparison:
In short X370 has more USB-Ports, more SATA Ports and usually offers SLI Support.
The GTX 1060 doesn't support SLI anyway (you'd need at least 1070s). I've had SLI in my old PC and it was nice when it worked, but most games don't come with SLI support anymore. Some games can be made SLI compatible by adjusting SLI bits in nvidia inspector, others stutter, glitch or crash when you try to force them into SLI.
DX12 Multi GPU might become a thing in the future, depending on how well it works.
Replace the H110 skylake 100 series chipset motherboard with a B250 kabylake 200 series chipset motherboard.
Most halfway decent PSUs come with an automatic wide range input voltage (110 to 240V at 50 to 60HZ) support. Check the dataseet.
On my XB271HU the option is named "Refresh rate num" and should be set to "OFF"
OSD Menu - OSD Setting
Check your Display OSD. Some Acer G-Sync (Freesync probably, too) screens show their refresh rate when set to game mode.
Try Windows 10 Settings -> Add/Remove programs -> It should be uninstallable from there.
Deamon tools lite is a tool that allows you to mount disk and CD images as a drive. Your AIO does not require such a tool.
What happens when you launch Corsair Link itself? Does it detect your AIO?
I don't own a Corsair AIO, but you need to download and install "Corsair Link Software" http://www.corsair.com/en-us/landing/corsair-link-dashboard.
Edit: You don't need Deamon Tools, should it be part of their installer.
If you've previously flashed BIOS version F20 or higher, your mainboard is ready for Kabylake CPUs. The link below will lead you to Gigabyte's CPU support list for your mainboard.
No special reason, I've simply reused my old drives.
You can buy a 3-Way Fan Splitter Cable. Fans come either with 3 or 4 wires. A 4pin Y-adapter cable can be used with 3pin fans, but not the other way around.
Do you happen to know anyone who might be able to lend you a different DDR4 module for testing?
It means that they have tested the CMK16GX4M2B3200C16R Kit in their lab and added it to their list of confirmed working RAM modules/kits.
They didn't test yours, but it should work anyway since it is DDR4 RAM after all. That said incompatibilities can always occur even with QVL RAM.
For example I've built an PC in 2015 that refused to post randomly due to an incompatibility with my DDR4 RAM modules. The very same RAMs work flawless, in another motherboard with the same chipset made by the same manufacturer, ever since.
For my new PC, I went for QVL RAM, since I wanted to minimize incompatibilities to a minimum.
It should, unless something else is amiss.
Make sure that the HDMI cable is plugged into the GPU and not the motherboard.
If you go that way, you would have to get at least an "i3 6100" since the older Skylake Pentiums lack hyperthreading.
It is possible that your mainboard (h110 was introduced with the Skylake CPUs) requires a bios update before it accepts a Kabylake CPU. While Kabylake CPUs have been out for quite a while now, it is still possible that your board was manufactured before the new BIOS was available. Have a look at the box maybe they noted the installed BIOS version somewhere.
The sad thing is, that you'll need a Skylake CPU to update the BIOS. Should you know somebody who is willing to lend you a Skylake CPU. Unless there is another problem that should be the solution for your problem.
In worst case try to return the mainboard and buy one with B250 chipset instead.
For onboard sound you can find them on asus.com. Look up your mainboard on their support website and download the driver from there.
Make your internal onboard sound the default device and it should work:
This will happen whenever you do full install of nvidia drivers.
Do they light up while your system is shut down? If no, check your BIOS, maybe the lights are turned off for whatever reason. You can also download ASUS Aura Sync from your mainboard's support website. This will allow you to control the lights on your mainboard.
I enjoyed my three playthroughs of Elex, the combat system however feels a bit clumsy and unbalanced (knockback effect) at times. Nevertheless a good game. Expect to die often, especially in the beginning.
1) Front and bottom is intake while back and top fans are usually used as exhaust, no problem here.
2) PC fans usually suck air in on the fan impeller side and blow it out on the "sticker" side. You can test that with a sheet of paper.
3) I prefer the set fans once in the BIOS and never touch it again method, but it is totally up to wether to use AI Suite or not.
4) Setting their fan header to DC-mode (button on top right) will allow you to control your 3-pin fans via voltage.
5) Depending on their rated m2/h air performance you might need to run them at the same speed percentage in order to maintain positive pressure.
Sorry I am running out of ideas, maybe someone over at www.reddit.com/r/buildapc is able to assist you.
Yes, they are compatible.
Have you checked the drive bays for a small card board box? Thats where I found my "missing" screws a few days ago.
No, it is actually manufactured by BitFenix.
It looks really nice but your GPU will overheat due to lack of air unless you cut a hole into the acryl window and install an airfilter + slim intake fan combo to it.
I've bought it from Caseking Germany. It is also available in black.
Does it hang during POST or BOOT? Some MSI boards come with LEDs that signal error states (EZ Diag LED) during post. They are often near the 24-PIN ATX connector. Those error LEDs will light up for a short peroid during post/hardware initialization, but if for example RAM keeps lit for minutes, then it hints to incompatible (just bad luck / or XMP clock setting too high) or damaged RAM.
From personal experience the CPU error LED can also be lit due to RAM incompatibilities. In my case Mobo or CPU simply detested my RAM sticks, even though they work fine in another PC ever since.
Nice and clean. I like the compostion of glossy red and mat black.
I have a feeling that someone is going to enjoy this years christmas. :)
Thank you, I've corrected my description and saved your link to my bookmarks.
Thanks for clarifying this. :)
Me neither, the only thing I could gather from AMD's site is the base clock (3.4Ghz) and a max bosst of 4GHz.
The soundblaster Zx card itself is currently not installed. Right now I only use the Zx audio controler's internal microphone connected to the onboard card. I connect my headphones into the white volume control box (old Logitech Z4 system) on the right side beneath the monitor.
All of intel's series 200 chipsets (including B250) are ready for Kabylake. For ITX you are looking for model B250i instead of B250m. The chipset for both is B250. a(ATX)/m(mATX)/i(ITX) is usually just the mainboard's form factor baked into the MB model name. As for the boards itself, some of those mainboards come with onboard wifi and bluetooth. Decide for yourself wether you need those onboard features and buy the cheapest that offers what you need.
Your CPU supports DDR 4 Ram rated at 2400 MHz. You won't gain much from that but those models usually cost almost the same as the slower 2133 Mhz modules.
Thats „Elex“ from Piranha Bytes.
No problems but the store updated the motherboard bios before shipping the bundle to me.
On my "MSI Gaming X GTX 1080" the backplate is screwed against the two middle plate VRM/VRAM heat sinks. That allowed me to keep the back plate.