5V RGB is usually a indicator for addressable LED lights, but your LL120 fan (despite being 5V addressable) will require a Corsair RGB Hub and a Corsair Lightning Node to make it work.
The 5V addressable LEDs that are compatible with some mainboards use a different standard (Aura-Sync) and you should not be able to control a LL120 fan's RGB from a regular addressable RGB connector on your mainboard.
Corsair uses its own RGB eco system. For LL120 you are supposed to start with the set that contains 3 LL120 fans and all the controllers needed to make it work.
To make things worse you've plugged a 5V addressable LED fan to a 12V RGB non-addressable header. You need to be careful with RGB stuff. There are 12V LEDs and 5V LEDs and companies like Corsair and NZXT use their own RGB ecosystem that usually requires the use of their RGB controllers.
Nickel plated copper and copper parts are no problem, it is actually a quite common combination. Just don't mix copper and aluminum or nickel and silver (kill coil).
Try to reseat (remove and put back in) the RAM sticks to rule out a bad contact. Also make sure to use the correct slots (refrer to the manual, usually it goes in slots 2 and 4, sometimes 1 & 3). In case you can‘t get it working do a CMOS reset/clear. To do so unplug the PSU, push the power button, then remove the CMOS battery (silver button cell) for a few minutes and then put it back in. Now try again and incase it still doesn’t work also try with one stick of RAM at a time. First with the slot mentioned in the manual, then with the others. Try to to isolate the issue to a stick of RAM or a RAM slot on the mainboard. Should it be a slot, reseat the CPU aswell because the RAM controller is inside the CPU and has direct connenctions to the RAM slots.
The Ryzen 2600 is a good CPU and you shouldn't run into any performance issues.
You can mix copper and nickel plated copper blocks without corrosion issues. Just don't use a silver kill coil when you have nickel plated components in your loop.
With soft tubes it is definitely easier, but there are also many people who start directly with hard tubes. I myself have never worked with hard tubing, so it's hard for me to give you a clear recommendation.
From a technical point of view it is enough if the end of the pipe mounted in the lid of the reservoir is permanently below the waterline (see picture 13). The different coolant levels in the pictures are due to the fact that I had already refilled a bit in the meantime. Meanwhile I filled it up even further, because the permanently visible but harmless condensation disturbed me.
I don't think so. Have a look at the 15th photo in my build, there is a rubber grommet to the left of my pump. You might however be able to mount the second pump to the front most radiator by using a pump mounting bracket.
Hi, I've encountered some instabilites during high memory load at 3200MHz. Although my CL14 RAM Kit comes with the praised Samsung B-DIE RAM chips, I currently run them at 2933Mhz@1.375V (I've turned on XMP in the BIOS and then manually changed clock speed and voltage). I've also updated the BIOS to the latest version, but so far I haven't felt like testing the new BIOS version and settings at 3200MHz.
Just keep in mind that radiators require some extra clearance on both ends. I guess that this is the one you've looked at: Phobya Xtreme 400 - V.2 - Full Copper. Its specified length is 445mm.
You can either use a seperate pump (pump motor+pump top) and a normal reservoir or a pump+reservoir D5 combo reservoir (pump motor+suitable combo res) where the pump motor is directly mounted to the reservoir's body.
Apart from Alphacool's VP755 pump motor which is not a real D5 pump (doesn't seal with some D5 pump tops or D5 pump+res combo units), all D5 pump motors are made by Xylem or Laing (brand of Xylem). The water cooling companies like Watercool, EKWB, Bitspower, XSPC, Alphacool, ... just add their label and each of them offers their own D5 pump top (the actual pump housing) or D5 pump+res combo unit (pump housing + res in one piece). Some pumps also come with added PWM control capabilities.
As for the reservoirs, I prefer the design of Watercool's "Heatkiller Tube" line, but really take whichever you like most. Most reservoirs are either available as solo unit or as pump+res combo, whereas the latter one either allows you to install a D5 pump motor or comes with one already mounted.
Hi it is overclocked to 3,9GHz@1,375V. While gaming the max CPU temp is around 63°C. I also ran the blender "BMW27_CPU" render demo twice in a row, right after a gaming session (coolant already warm). The highest reading during the second blender run was close to 73°C.
Yes it is overclocked. It runs at 3.9GHz@1.375V.
Another thing, if you had XMP enabled and it happens again, you can always reduce its clock to a lower value. To do so enbable the XMP function in the BIOS and then set the RAM clock to 2666MHz instead of 2933/3000MHz.
You can also create a bootable MEMTEST86 USB drive and check your RAM for errors. Faulty RAM chips that cause a massive amount of errors usually lead to blue screens.
You can try to do a CMOS reset that will remove any changes made to the BIOS settings. This can help when a computer refuses to boot. There are two ways to clear the CMOS. First option is described in the motherboard manual and requires you to short two pins on the motherboard with the PSU being unplugged. For the second option you also unplug the PSU and then remove the CMOS battery (usually a CR2032 lithium button cell battery) for a few seconds. While you have the case open also make sure that all components and cables a firmly seated.
You'll need to boot into BIOS afterwards and redo your settings (XMP/D.O.C.P, ...). To make sure that nothing overheats you can run HWiNFO with the sensor tab open and then lunch a demanding game. Assuming the flashes were your configured temperature alert simply tab out of the game when it happens the next time and check the T(DIE) current and highest values. Should you use NZXT CAM, this might also be able to show you those values.
Enter BIOS and enable XMP (big button, top left corner). Then save and exit. I'll then attempt to boot with XMP enabled.
He'd require a motherboard with Z370/390 chipset in order to overclock the CPU.
I was sceptical at first, but I like how it turned out. I chose EPDM (rubber) tubing over PVC soft tubing because it doesn't doesn't contain plasticizer. Plasticizer slowly gets disolved into the cooling fluid and over time small blobs of it can get stuck in the water blocks.
Yes 4-pin fan power cables to fan header(s) and RGB cables to the included RGB-Splitter cable and from there to the JLED1 header on your MSI B350 Tomahawk. But watch out that mainboard comes with dumbed down RGB support that only allows you to choose from seven colors. There is a screenshot that shows its limited options in the linked thread on Hardwareluxx (in German) (goggle translator link from German to English).
The MSI B350 Tomahawk doesn't support addressable LEDs. You would need a seperate ARGB controller.
Maybe it is still trying to post with wierd settings. Unplug the PSU and do a CMOS Reset as described in the mainboard's manual.
You can also use "RGB_HEADER1". From the PIN-Layout, they are both labled with "12V G R B" (5050 12v non-addressable LED Lights/Strips.) and are most likely just differently labled.
It doesn't matter that the i5 9600k is a Coffee Lake CPU.
The mainboard needs to come with at least BIOS version 7B48v26 which was released on 7-7-2018. Should it come with an older BIOS version than that, it will not be able to POST/boot with an to it unknown 9th gen. CPU. See, the problem is that there is usually no telling which BIOS was flashed by the manufacturer or when it was manufacturered or how long it was stored in some distributor's shelves.
Whether you want to risk it or not, it's up to you.
The flat RGB 4-PIN(hole) cable goes onto the "AMD_FAN_LED1" header. The arrow on said plug marks the connector that needs to be aligned to the pin marked with 12V on "AMD_FAN_LED1 (Manual p.31).
The FAN connector goes to "CPU_FAN1" (Manual p.29)
It would be a problem when your mainboard doesn't come with a high enough BIOS version and you also don't have access to a Coffee Lake (ix-8xxx series) CPU in order to do the update. Your options are to either risk it or choose a Z390 board instead.
Try to disable Fast Start-Up in Windows, thats what caused it on my Dad's notebook some time ago.
Most motherboard manufacturers offer software to control fans connected to the motherboard headers. For example there is ASUS AI Suite 3 for Asus boards and Asrock A-Tuning for Asrock boards.
You'll only need it if you want to control fan speeds within Corsair's iCue software.
The Lightning Node (requires a free internal USB2 connector) that comes with the 3-pack of LL120/ML120 or 2-pack of LL140/ML140 fans allows you to control the RGB effects, but you'll have to power the fan motors via mainboard or some kind of fan controller. For starters you'll need to buy one of those packs since it also contains a Lightning Hub (each hub supports 6 fans) which can either be connected to a Lightning Node or a Commander Pro.
Commander Pro is a fan controller with integrated Lightning Node and internal 2x USB Hub to add further Lightning Nodes, additional Commander Pro, compatible AIO units or a Corsair PSU.
My latest build (not yet on pcpartpicker) has 2 Commander Pro units that control my radiator fans based on coolant temperature (custom loop) aswell as all the LEDs (strips and LL120 fans). They are all controlled by Corsair's iCUE software.
Check your exact tube diameter (outer and inner). I've used EK-Duraclear 15,9mm/11,1mm tube in my loop and had no issue with EK 16/10 fittings. On the other hand I wasn't able to fasten a non brand 16/10 fitting because it was simply not compatible with my ID 11,1mm tube.
The ASRock X399M Taichi (Note the "M") is the only X399 mATX mainboard on the market. My original plan was to use a mATX case but looking at radiator restrictions I will most likely be using a Lian-Li PC-O11 Dynamic ATX case instead.
I also have an ASUS X399-A in a different build which works fine and even comes with an unused Type-C header, because my Corsair 780T case is too old to support it.
I am currently in the process of buying parts for a ASROCK - X399M (mATX) build. I will be affected by the same problem and so far I've only found two solutions. Sadly both cost around 50 to 60 USD but I think I am going with the modDIY adapter since I plan on doing a vertical GPU mount without having to deal with more than one PCI-E riser.
Solution 1: modDIY Adapter
Solution 2: Delock PCI Express Card > 1 x internal USB 3.1 Gen 2 key B 20 pin female
Edit: You will be able to use the Type A-USB connectors on your case. The adapter is only needed to make the USB Type-C port working.
DDR4-3200 RAM modules with CL14 usually use Samsung B-DIE RAM chips, which in turn are the most compatible RAM for Ryzen. Thanks to AMD's Agesa updates (Microcode applied via BIOS Update) and Ryzen 2 the issue is no longer as present than it used be.
Enermax Liqtech TR4 suffers from galvanic corossion and gunk buildup inside the loop. The copper fins in the waterblock clog up and temperatures rise.
Also the first batch of the Liqtech TR4 II seems to have a leaking issue and was called back to factory.
Some mainboard sensors are usually unused (as in no thermistor connected to the chip) and report weird temperatures. You can also use HWiNFO to monitor your temperatures, maybe it is able to read the missing CPU temp values.
If it doesn't come come with a fitting AM4 bracket you'll have to wait until Cryorig sends you one via mail.
I'd get a different cooler that comes with all needed parts.
You can try to find the culprit by running Window Focus Logger from here: www.adminscope.com
Make sure to set the "Runtime in minutes" timer to a high value before starting to log, else it stops after a few minutes. The program logs any process that takes focus. You can test it by switching between programs and whatever keeps tabbing you out should also get logged.
Did you use Microsoft Word and did it ask you to allow macros? There might be other exploits for .doc files, but embedded Macros are the usual intrusion point.
You could give OBS Studio (https://obsproject.com) a try. I've never used it, but many Twitch streamers use it for their broadcasts.
A guide that I've found on google:
Those cans actually aren't filled with compressed air. They contain a mixture of several liquified gases, hence the warning about frostbite. Make sure to keep the can straight, else it might spit liquid gas that will evaporate within a few seconds.
Can you post a link to your userbenchmark results? They sometimes contain helpful informations like CPU not running at full speed. Also check your CPU temperature.
in case you've previously done an overlclock in AORUS Engine revoke it before going on.
To rule out a faulty display driver installation, I'd recommend to run Display Driver Uninstaller while booted into windows safe mode. It will uninstall your current driver to a allow for a clean install afterwards. You can obtain it from here: https://www.wagnardsoft.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1174
Once done, reboot then download and install the latest driver from nvidia.com.
You can also run userbenchmark from userbenchmark.com which might reveal which part performs below expectation.
Boot into safe mode use method two: https://www.digitalcitizen.life/4-ways-boot-safe-mode-windows-10
DDU download: https://www.wagnardsoft.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1174
DDU Guide: https://www.wagnardsoft.com/content/ddu-guide-tutorial
Does the radiator still get warm/hot? Sounds like the pump might have failed.
Whats your CPU temp?
No idea about PERFMON, but make sure all drivers are installed and up to date. For ease of mind download and run userbechmark from here: http://www.userbenchmark.com.
It'll do a quick bench and show your results on userbechmark's website.
Since it just came to my mind: Update your BIOS to the latest version, they've patched a lot of RAM incompatibilities over the last year. Download the latest BIOS for your mainboard, extract the ZIP and copy the BIOS update to an USB drive. Then use the update tool integrated into your BIOS to run the update. The update will reset custom BIOS settings like XMP/DOCP, fan curves and manual voltage settings. Take a note of those before doing the update.
For the issue at hand:
Do you have XMP/DOCP enabled in UEFI BIOS? If yes, disable it and test again.
XMP/DOCP is already disabled and test still shows errors: Test each RAM stick in each slot one at a time. That way you can isolate which RAM stick or slot is causing errors. (faulty stick = RMA the RAM, faulty slot = RMA the mobo. For a faulty slot It is also possible that the memory controller inside the CPU is having an issue but I think that is only last option if all else fails.)
no more errors after disabling XMP/DOCP?: Re-enable XMP/DOCP and increase DDR4 voltage from 1.35V to 1.375V. You can also try to calculate memory timings by using Ryzen DRAM calculator linked in my previous reply. In case you don't get it stable make sure XMP/DOCP is enabled but reduce DRAM clock to e.g. 2666 or 2933 MHz.
It could be an issue with your RAM but write down the next BSODs and google them. I was able to diagnose my HTPC that way. As for checking your RAM, create a bootable Memtest86 USB thumb drive and let it check for RAM errors. In case of errors reseat RAM modules and repeat with one stick at a time and slot for slot. Also try with XMP (DOCP for ASUS mainboards) disabled in BIOS or try to configure your RAM timings manually using Ryzen DRAM Calculator, then run Memtest86 again.
I plan on adding a custom loop to my system aswell. The AIO on my Threadripper broke (internal damage, no leak) and I use air cooling for now. I don't think that cooling the RAMs is neccesary unless you plan on doing extreme overclocking. Even the configurator on EKWB's webiste lists RAM cooling as "If you pursue the aesthetics in your build, you can also liquid cool your RAM". Since I am not familiar with your case I'd like to advise you to use the configurator on www.ekwb.com. Their configurator only needs some basic info like case, cpu, gpu and ram.
I've used it plot my future custom cooling solution, but for now my money goes towards my summer vacation...
Double check all cables and connections (unplug and plug back in). Is the CPU power plug connected to the mainboard? Reseat GPU and RAM sticks or try with just one stick of RAM. Do a CMOS reset as mentioned in the motherboard manual.
Last but not least since it seems to happen to some people from time to time, make sure you didn't accidently plug the Floppy drive power connector into a fan connector.