The obvious one: small on-board audio is not designed to fit all features or preferred features hence the mobo audio will always have limitations.
Ext audio cards (depending on what you're picking up) offer greater features, crispier sound, higher signal to noise ratios, less distortion to harmonic resonance, etc etc etc. If you're planning on picking up some up-market quality speakers or a cinematic acoustics set, then a quality ext sound card is the right way to go about it. Cheaper Ext. cards also work very well with a affordable sound output package.
Some of the current mobos come with pretty decent audio capabilities for gaming or what not, but certainly not the best and for your headphones, as long as you have a somewhat decent/recent mobo, you should be fine.
If its purely gaming, I wouldn't change a thing!!
Besides the rear and top exhaust fans, I can't remember if that S340 Elite comes with fans mounted on the front. If not, the GPU will heat things up on the inside hence 2 140mm intake fans would do the job nicely. I have the same case, AMAZING AIRFLOW!!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
For gaming your CPU is fine. Most of the hard work will depend on your GPU for gaming performance.
It really does boil down to your budget to build around the i5-6400
Your display @ 144hz could make use of a better GPU which in the least can deliver 60fps bare minimum on those hungry current gaming titles. A good starting point for a 1080p 144hz display would be the GTX 1060 6GB card (if you dont mind forking out more, the GTX 1070TI)
You dont need so much memory speed, dropped down to 2666Mhz. Even 2400Mhz would work fine. I kept the RGB though, if needed?
From the era of Dinosaurs, one got through lol (kidding)
Yeah, in total agreement. Actually I finished my first PC, first build and first OC all-in-one in Nov '17. Moving on from media-savvy laptops, I wasn't sure what CPU would suffice for a real performance boost - glad i picked up the super affordable 7700k - definitely the best investment I had ever made (Actually, the 1080 TI - speechless!!)
Nope, no "cause for concern"
The H7 is smaller in size which makes up for the lower CFM, with a firmer static fan press and on top with these later models you can expect better heatpipes and fin layouts to transfer heat. The difference isn't vast but just better performance.....and my favourite....a quieter cooler doing just as well as those mushy fast RPM ones
If your case doesn't come with intake fans for the case, I would install 2 for some added coolness.
Your build was certainly good enough!
Optional changes made:
Added 250GB M.2 NVME SSD. These drives are 5 times faster than the reg SSDs. On top no power cables or SATA cables required, they plug directly onto the motherboard.
Added a second HD for 1TB for storing games/files/folders. Depending on your storage needs, you could replace the HD for the previous SSD for 500gb/1TB. Won't really make a difference in performance, well noticeably anyway, unless your working on processing images/videos/streaming/etc.
Swapped out PSU for 750W. Your rig potentially eats around 530w. Power consumption headroom of 100w is recommended and on top another 100w for future proofing (though 650w would be more than fine).
Only 2 fans are supplied as exhausts with the case. Adding 2 more (preferably 140mm each) for intake to mount on the front would work nicely as your GPU will generate a lot of hot air inside the case.
(with Esamenoi's cooler amendment) That's a solid build and fit for purpose. I have a very similar set up for PS+LR based around the 2017 i7-7700K Kaby Lake. I would have preferred the coffee lakes 6 core combo but honestly after OCing the CPU the results were purely justifiable. LR is process-savvy on high clock speeds and with your RIG being OC capable, it's definitely something worth looking into for responsiveness, merging or converting images or just generally zipping through 100s of weighty images.
I'm a bit of a gamer too, mine being a personal/work machine so I slipped in a 1080ti. If gaming is on your list of to-do's, you might want to raise the bar on the GPU, otherwise the 1050 is more than sufficient.
Slightly over the budget with the OS included
Definitely stick with the dual fan 1060 6GB GPU. 6GB of V-RAM with 1080p display should last you for a few years easily with decent FPS/performance. (if colour or general aesthetics are not pleasing you can always opt for another brand/model but with same spec)
The Mobo is AC wifi antenna equipped if you choose to go that route.
I threw in an additional storage HD for 1TB. Store OS on the SSD and all files/data/games on HD for best performance
The case (like most) comes with 2 fans, back and rear (exhaust). I would pick up 2 additional ones to mount on the front (air intake). The NZXT is super easy to build in, great aesthetics, fully filtered and overall: EXCELLENT AIRFLOW (I own one :P)
Whats the budget?
Are you planning on overclocking?
Your listed board has no wireless antennas, are you using ethernet or planning to connect via wifi?
Operating System needed?
Assuming you already have a monitor, whats the res (1080p/1440p/4k)?
I'm a sucker for tampered glass side windows on cases, whats your fancy?
For 'upgrades', the Ryzen 3 2200g is the better option. If you were to add a better GPU at a later time, comparatively speaking, the Ryzen 3 will add additional processing power for a performance boost over the G4560.
RAM SPEED: I wouldn't worry too much, even AMD runs all sticks at default 2133Mhz. You could even pick up 2400Mhz sticks and have these Oc'd. Though 3000Mhz is the desired speed for really pushing the Ryzen to it's full potential but hardly an absolute necessity considering it's a budget build.
With your budget in mind and unfavourable prices in Greece, have you considered a pre-built machine? Maybe a used one? If you prefer the building experience, maybe some used parts?
Your motherboard is more than capable!!
DDR3 = no problem!
DDR3 in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lz5AYHQdaRA
With your budget of £800 to support a 1440p, definitely stick with upgrading the GPU. Your board is capable of supporting faster RAM frequencies - you could pick up DDR3-2400Mhz and sell your your current stick. RAM speed does help a little here and there but a better GPU will make all the difference.
Again, Buying a GPU upgrade won't affect your decision to upgrade the entire system later. If 1440p is a must, a better GPU is equally a MUST!
Add a second 1TB Hard Drive to store your games on. Use your current SSD for the OS only for better performance
Maybe adding 8GB RAM to get a total of 16 Gigs? Not a must but with future game releases the bar will be set higher.
Depending on your router, maybe upgrade to the newer gen of wifi signalling: 802.11ac wireless adaptor. Depends on requirement too. AC uses dual band wireless tech with better support for simultaneous connectivity and its b/g/n backwards compatible. Alternatively, if you dont mind ethernet, thats clearly the best option!
A better GPU will do it nicely with the 1440p display
For a budget GTX 1060 6GB, on most top end games you could play with the in-game settings set to a mix of low/medium/high and should be able to manage 60fps. Its a decent card and I wouldn't be surprised if it maintained the desired performance even at Mid/high/ultra settings on some decent titles.
Ideally with a 1440p display with visual performance in mind you should be looking from GTX 1070 to 1080 TI (depending on your budget). With games demanding more and more VRAM, these card are coupled with sizeable capacities ranging from 8GB-11GB V-RAM.
Your CPU is decent enough for a considerable overclock to hit around 4.2 - 4.5GHz with a small push on Vcore, keeping the temps reasonable. For best performance set windows power plan to 'performance' (if needed). Then again with a 1440p display, you have nothing to worry about.
BOTTOM LINE: Buying a GPU upgrade won't affect your decision to upgrade the entire system later. If 1440p is a must, a better GPU is equally a MUST!
That's one super clean and solid looking build - finally manhood back in the mechanical gear.
I have to admit, your build looks sooo much better without the side panel - only if it had a full length tampered glass it would have been perfect (for me).
Either way, a definite +1
thats a tricky one!
16GB RAM + 1060 6GB = for 1080p gaming, you have no problems! This card will do the job nicely. If you work on applications demanding more RAM for intensive processes (video editing, 3D modeling, etc), the 16 GB RAM will be very handy, if not, 8GB would be more than sufficient.
8GB RAM + 1070 8GB = Better gaming performance with better fps. The additional 2GB GPU 'V-RAM' is definitely worth it and great for future proofing as games are getting more and more VRAM hungry. In comparison, the 1070 will deliver far better lighting effects, handling reflections and textures in games. Makes quite a difference if you're an 'attention to detail' freak like me with the added bonus of upping the RAM later.
Not what everyone want to hear but here i go: Have you considered used parts? You have the option of picking up 16GB RAM and a used GPU. You could possibly pick up a used 1070 card for a $50-$100 less from Amazon/Ebay/other (providing warranty is valid preferably for more than 3 months). - just an option!
You can save a little by dropping the SSD as it's not entirely necessary if you're on a tight budget
No OS added, assuming you may already have a copy?
No wireless adaptor added, assuming you can connect via ethernet cable.
You can amend as per requirement
When you mention ''Battlefield" - check out Ryzen 5 2400G (VEGA 11 iGPU + stock cooler included). It's an improved processor over the R3-2200g and will work better with added GPU cards later. Vega 11 iGPU beats GT 710 by miles and miles and miles and somewhat is a balanced contender for the GT 1030. For FPS performance on 1080p displays, search youtube for "Ryzen 5 2400G BF1" - a number of videos are available showing performance, temps, fps, etc.
If you can't cut the budget, maybe stick with a HD and leave the SSD for later. Basically, slower boot times and read/write speeds, but no biggie, 7200rpm HD's work great with games.
What type of case? Mobo size? Operating system required? Storage capacity required? SSD/HD? Or any other requirement?
As long as your mobo supports 2, no problem.
You also want to check whether your SATA ports will be disabled or not when using M.2 ports. You may want to add additional SATA devices hence I would check the mobo manual first.
If all pans out, connect the first M.2 drive and install your OS. Once done, then connect the second one to avoid any issues.
Not sure about the current mobo auto-configured presets for m.2 SSDs but you might want to look at this article....the best solution given served me amazingly when purchasing my ASUS Z270E mobo, super easy to follow and straight forward. You may want to check whether the same will be required for your setup. http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-3460538/nvme-installation-asus-z270f-rog-strix.html
Just a side note: 960 evo as a primary boot drive is a great choice for the OS. But a second one just to store your games on is costly and you won't notice any real-world difference in speed. For the second storage, if HD's or 2.5" SSDs are out of the question, you could look at the cheaper Samsung 850 evo "M.2 drive" (or similar alternatives) and maybe pick up bigger capacities with those savings in hand.
If you are 3-months patient, I would definitely wait. Though I don't believe $699 is a realistic price for the 1180 unless current demand drops considerably over the next couple of months (no guarantees). What is certain is the 1080 TI is likely to dip in price in the coming months so that could be favourable.
You can get 4K 60fps on current titles fairly easily with the 1080 too and other more demanding titles with just a few drops in in-game graphics settings. All that without losing too much in term of graphic quality (actually some of those setting changes are hardly noticeable). Basically your primary choice is also good enough if you are planning on selling it sometime later to upgrade to a cheaper 1080 TI / 1180
60 fps with 4K + future proofing with recent titles = 1080 TI. Unfortunately these cards are pricey.
Thanks for the options, glad these are under 500 quid.
I have never tried AMD cpus before, been a intel man since man laid foot on the moon. Might be a good place to start.
If you don't mind I sent you a private message to discuss one other alternative.
Thats what I suspect too, i think as per recommendations, I might need to amp up the CPU choice
If a better CPU is recommended I would take it with the cooler. As long as we can keep the budget at £500 max.
So a 30,000 dollar build to place into a measly 150 dollar case....i dunno!
I think you're having a laugh. I find it odd that you fail to deliver your requirements per practical use. For someone to have produced a list of this sort could have just as easily presented their entire purpose, required performance per measure and other b/m calculable requirements.
It took Nauthes and Burntsilicon 3 attempts for you to just list the applications alone. God forbid how long it would take to just wrap our heads around your storage management process, let alone, the integrity of memory, cpu and gpu processes.
Yes, Intel HD Graphics 630
Also I forgot to mention our 4K TV (Sony Bravia KD-65X8505B) has no displayport connection, only HDMI but the specs confirm 60hz hence im assuming I can get 60fps watching 4K
Full spec: https://www.displayspecifications.com/en/model/8c4c136
The 10-core i9-7900x is a HUGE overkill for the mentioned tasks (correct me if i'm wrong)
Unless your running those CPU intensive tasks like video editing, rendering, engineering, 3d modelling or what not several times a day, it may suffice for the given speeds and core count. For the same and not so consistent tasks, the 6-core i7-8700K would be most fitting at a 1/3 of the asking price. As for gaming, anything above i7 is overkill.
You should be perfectly fine @ 16GB RAM.
I work on photoshop (major), video editing (minor) and stream occasionally with current titles BF1, GT5, FAR CRY 5, etc. Picked up 32gig of RAM convincing myself 'it will help and great for future proofing'. Tested the system and tbh, even with an overclock in place @ 3600Mhz, the 32 gig solution hardly offers anything noticeable towards ''value for money for current requirements". I guess it weighs heavily on your realistic usage of memory and the tasks which will endure its capacity.
Seriously its more than enough and should be able to accommodate upgrades in the near future unless your planning on SLI. Though I would recommend 850W (non-sli ambitious) for some 20%'ish power safety headroom for future proofing on upgrades.
I guess this one entirely depends on your willingness to spend the paper if you have it. But you could save immensely by replacing this with a 2TB HD. Throw in a 500gb SSD 860 evo for those regular/current read/write processes and another 250gb m.2 960 evo to run your OS on. That would give you around $500 savings on storage alone.
Dunno about you, but If had that kind of dollar, I would save from the above (around $1300), throw the cash into a savings account and jump back online in 6 months for some nifty upgrades. The practical bigger and better is always around the corner!!
BTW, i know everyone tends to jump on the 1080ti bandwagon but more importantly what are your plans for the gaming display? 1080p / 1440p or 4K??
4K would beg for a 1080 ti, 1440p would certainly benefit but its not a must but for a 1080p display you could even get away with a 1070 ti and save a bomb. For some reason their is a belief that gaming enthusiasm equals to ramping up all in-game settings to max, not really! It entirely depends on your preference and I hope you don't feel coerced into picking up an 1080ti as it's not entirely necessary for a great gaming experience. Theres a number of key elements if desired, would then suggest a 1080 TI, i.e. preferred FPS, display resolution, in-game setting config, maybe future proofing, etc. Let us know the nitty gritty for best alternatives within budget.
1080 TI - YES SIR, VERY NICE!
1TB M.2 SSD - NO SIR, BANK BREAKER!
For a gaming RIG you'll be fine with 250gb m.2 SSD (for your OS and apps) paired with a 1 TB HD (game storage)
If you don't fancy HD, though these are super affordable with huge capacities, you could opt for a second SSD 850 EVO with 500gb or 1TB. Honestly, if you are not planning to use up all the space for a 500gig SSD, don't bother with 1TB. Maybe a year down the line you can upgrade as these are hardly cheap.
Just a perfectionist note: SP120 fans are great but if you're planning to use these on the case for intake or exhaust, you might fancy AF120 instead. SP are static pressure fans (which push air harder) designed to be attached to cpu coolers/heatsinks or radiators. AF are AirFlow fans which move higher volumes of air measured in CFM, designed for the case intake/exhaust. Corsairs Airflow (AF) fans are quieter than the static pressure (SP) alternatives hence thats an added bonus.
If these are fit for purpose, heres the link https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/hbbp99/corsair-case-fan-co9050002ww
plus u save £2 quid :P
Actually ADATA is a great choice. They released high speed and low value drives which the competition is yet to match. I'm actually considering buying one too for a home theatre build but I have to admit I don't like that ugly 1980's retro sticker - i could have designed something better in 2018. I'll just have to blow dry it off and add a custom made cover.
If you do finally end up throwing it across the field, please use my garden with the destination being ''my bedroom window" lol
If you're playing with a 1080p display the 1060 6gb card is definitely GOOD ENOUGH!! Game graphics cranked up on high should easily get you 60fps if not more. A friend of mine plays BF1 (Ultra settings, 1080p display) with the same card with an i5-7600 and easily gets around 70-90fps.
You could even get away with 1440p displays in ultra settings but depending on the titles played, you can certainly lower some of those settings to secure 60fps without compromising noticeable loss in display quality. Basically, ITS NOT THE BEST, BUT CERTAINLY A GOOD CARD THAT DELIVERS @ 1440p!!
If you're running a 4K display - thats another story
i5-8600k is certainly good enough for your requirements
Only if I could get some free parts in the UK, especially around where I live. No thanks to ebay and all those other sales channels, people dont throw away the good stuff anymore - they sell!
+0.5 for saving/creating a life
+0.5 for adding soul
+1 me like it, total
Nice build mate
I have the same GPU which manages +75mhz on the gpu clock and +450Mhz on the mem clock. Though working perfectly well with benchmarks and gaming, temps would hit around 78-80c. Not my cup of tea so i dropped down to +65Mhz/+400Mhz
Initially had similar problems with crappy overclocks and ended up DDU'ing the driver with a fresh install, re-seating the custom back-plate with room to breath and turning off G-SYNC, norton, teamviewer and any other apps running in the background when running benchmarks. Did the job!
Temporarily you could try 2 as intakes, place the third on the rear as exhaust until you pick up new ones.
You mentioned removing the side panels, you could do this now and see how much of an impact that has on idle temps. If the difference is significant, then try the 2 on the front and 1 exhaust fan on the back and see if it helps.
Dude if the 1500x was topping 90c you should definitely be worried, with urgent remedy in mind
If topping 80c - thats the hot zone you can live with but definitely try to avoid
If topping 70c - thats pretty safe!!
Now, 60c on stress tests, you have nothing to worry about.
About the idle temps hanging around 50c - You want to double check that as it does seem a little high. On your next reading exit all apps running in the background. Maybe google '1500x idle and max temps' to see what others are reporting to get a better picture. I had a quick look, some suggested 35-40c, which sounds about right. 50c on idle is nothing to be worried about but preferably you could review your case airflow/fan curve, maybe tweak the stock cooler fan curve (if possible) or possibly pick up some decent thermal paste and replace the pre-applied one and see the difference.
Just curious, did your case come with fans? Both intake and exhaust?
Just my preference for the case:
BTW, check out your local Maplins too (or online), they got their closing down sale on....you might pocket some savings for same/similar parts (if available).
Your build will definitely do the job. My dads using an old Dell Vostro 420 with 4GB ram. I swapped the E8300 CPU for the quad Q9550 and added kingston 120gb SSD (used purchases from ebay). Works perfectly!! Yet your build with the G4560 cpu and DDR4 ram is far more superior for the aforementioned tasks. Dad does exactly what you listed, basic office applications, outlook, browsing, accounting software, videos, etc.
As others have mentioned I too recommend SSD! You can pick up 120 gigs of kingston for around 30 quid (total cost £260). These SSD's are not the fastest around but far more superior compared to HD's with the added bonus of 'zero noise'. The second drive, the HD can be used for storing data. Dunno about your old man, but mines constantly making images and videos on his phone which are then synced to his Onedrive hence the 2 drive solution. Depends on your old mans storage requirements for both present and near future.
p.s. RAM no big issue, you can always upgrade by adding another stick at a later time if needed.
ah, my bad! I swear i saw a 4 fan push pull config on a rad on the front lol. On closer inspection, yep i need to re-visit specsavers.
I just realised something viewing those added pics
Both of your 2 top fans and the 4 fans on the front (push/pull on rad) are all set as intakes. Thats 6 intake fans and only 1 on the rear as exhaust. Thats a lot of negative airflow.
Was that intentional or in error?
Heat travels upwards hence I would switch the 2 top case fans to 'exhaust'. Basically that will give you 4 intake fans (on the rad) and 3 exhaust fans in total. Maybe run prime95 again and see if that improves the temps.
Agreed: definitely try out the games or other CPU extensive tasks which you are usually running to see how well those temps work.
This machine definitely begs for more pics. I've seen this case online several times but it was never so pleasing to the eyes. But looking at it now in an actual build - IT LOOKS STUNNING!!!!! Better then my S340 :(
I have the 7700K (1.30v @ 5.0GHz OC) paired up with the Kraken x62 AIO. Prime95 S-FFTs was hitting around 85-86c.. I changed the AIOs pre-applied TIM to Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut 1g 1g. It didn't make that much of a difference but much preferred with temps peaking at 80-82c. It's good enough as prime-95 is hardly a realistic test based on real time full load usage. Best bet, run something like realbench benchmarks and see if the results are pleasing. My RB test temps hang at their peak around 75ish. Though when photo and video editing or playing BF1 and GTA5 with max settings I barely ever hit above 65c. I only use prime95 to stress test my OC configuration to look out for crashes/BSODs and as long as im not going over 85c, im super comfortable.
Also try amping up the fan curve as long as its audible-comfy, may help to reduce the temps.
Not a big fan of the colours, but when you get the combination absolutely perfect like that - it looks FABULOUS!!
Great build! +1
I totally get what you mean with the cables but regardless, I love it.
That fan set up looks interesting!! Straight up airflow like it should be!
My only recommendation: change to ''PC IN A JAR" lol, sounds wicked!!!
Dude if this was running a low profile GT 710 i would still want it featured. It's the build that counts for me, not necessarily the price of top notch parts.
Yeah fan splitters!!!! Was gonna suggest the same!
I have a 6 fan set up in my NZXT S340 elite. Luckily for me, my AIO cooler (Kraken X62) came with a 4-fan splitter which connects directly to the pump which enabled a 4 fan push/pull config on the rad for the intake. I then used the 2 mobo usb headers for the exhaust fans.
I haven't tried fan splitters via mobo USB headers though. I would want to check fan performance taking this route as these headers are limited in their power supply. Not sure if this will affect the fan max speeds or what not.