Just confirmed, dead mobo. Still no clue what happened or how it happened, it just decided it had enough I guess. Swapped in a new board and we're good to go. Thanks again for your reply and suggestions.
Thanks for the reply, I swapped and tested everything I could including a PSU, bench testing was actually what I did after posting the topic. Figured if I had to take the board out to install a new one I might as well. I did also inspect the CPU and socket, nothing looks out of the ordinary, and I didn't see any magic smoke or smell anything. Unfortunately I don't have a spare CPU to swap in to test, but I got the same issue, the motherboard power led comes on when I turn on the PSU, but the system will not turn on, no fan spin or anything. I'm going to get a new board tonight, so will update when I am able to test with that. If that doesn't work, I think it's gotta be CPU.
AmazonBasics brand have worked just fine for me and several friends, they're not expensive.
Yes will work fine, you will just have one extra 6+2 pin PCI-e cable since your GPU only uses one.
The average user will see no difference between NVMe or SATA, I would get a larger capacity SATA drive personally.
This is true. When I was growing up my parents got me gaming consoles, on the condition that I would only play when I didn't have homework or other work to attend to, and I would split my time between gaming and outdoor/recreation time. Gaming was certainly a privilege.
Are you using their money, or your money? If it's your money, you should be able to do whatever you want with it. Best thing is to be completely honest with them, if you will use it for gaming, tell them you will use it for gaming, but if homework is also an argument, document all the times you had to use a computer for homework or all the times you could have used one to make your work better.
If it's their money buying this system, its completely up to them though, just present your argument and hope for the best. If not, time to get a job and earn some cash. Even if you're under whatever the minimum working age is where you are, mowing lawns, car washing, raking leaves, etc are all things people hire kids for all the time.
No, they sent you a new mouse, it is yours to do whatever you want with it. Same as any warranty replacement.
I'll probably tune in, might wake me up after the Monaco GP, since there's a good chance it will be a snoozefest/parade. I'll be interested to see how Alonso does this year.
I've been using PIA with no issues for the last 3 years. Speeds are a bit slower when connected for me, off the VPN I get 100/30, connected to the VPN I get about 50-60/30, but it's still sufficient for my use. I've also heard good things about NordVPN.
I may have to pick one up, I had a G602 wireless but sorely missed the option to free scroll with the wheel, had to go back to the G502 wired.
Unfortunately I don't have a good answer, I'd get in touch with Phanteks on that. You should have Power LED +, Power LED -, Power SW, Reset SW, and HDD LED. From what I've read online there may be some issues with mislabeled cables.
I had the Enthoo Pro M, I believe they shipped with the same fans. They were ok, not super amazing, but actually not bad as far as stock case fans go, ran quiet enough at lower speeds and still moved a lot of air. Build quality was quite good, very solid construction. I swapped out for Noctuas just because I could, but the stock fans will do just fine.
One thing to note, unless Phanteks has changed something in the past few years, they are 3 pin DC fans, which means you can't operate them as slowly/quietly as PWM fans. I believe this is the same model as what comes stock, so you can check out reviews:
You can never have too much storage, get as much as you can comfortably afford. The average user is not going to notice any difference between NVMe or SATA, so if money is tight, stick with the 1TB SSD (I assume you already have it, judging by the title), and when you can, buy a 250GB SSD to be your boot drive, and use the 1TB for storage and games.
The most noticeable thing you'll probably see is game loading times will be much faster on an SSD.
Nothing better than a green PCB.
Honestly though, you're probably not gonna do much better than one that is just covered by a heatsink. I think I remember seeing an Asus one that had a big red heatsink on it, don't recall if it was any good though.
Agreed, I was lucky enough to get a GBC for Christmas after it launched, and Pokemon Gold as soon as it came out. Another very close second is Mario Golf for the GBC, being a golfer myself I was obsessed with that game, but didn't take long to beat it.
I may actually have to buy a Switch if Sword/Shield ends up being good, although I basically have no clue about any Pokemon after second gen. Last one I played was FireRed on GBA.
People who text and drive, drunk drive, or are otherwise distracted/not paying attention. I don't know of a more selfish thing to do, operating a multi-ton death machine at high speeds, endangering everyone around them.
I had a roommate in college who would literally tip his head back to keep food from falling out because he chewed with his mouth so far open. He could chew with it closed, it wasn't like a medical limitation or anything, just chose not to. My other roommate and I talked to him about it multiple times because it was infuriatingly loud, he'd fix it for a few minutes then right back to chomping away like a llama.
I used headphones a lot that year.
If you notice higher than normal temps it can't hurt, but overall I doubt you'd see more than a degree or two of difference, unless it just isn't seated properly on the CPU or there was poor coverage.
Yep I do like that EVGA has their own online shop for both new and used/refurb parts. Even EVGA's new parts store is usually as cheap as you'll be able to find them since they sell right at MSRP, maybe if another merchant is having a sale it could be worth contacting them and seeing about price matching.
I didn't know Zotac had one though, thanks for sharing.
Yes, it is very easy.
If you don't want to wait for a USB stick to be mailed to you and you have a spare one laying around, download the installer from here: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10, then use it to create installation media on your USB stick, a step-by-step is laid out at the link.
Then either buy a key directly from Microsoft, or go with a legit retailer like Newegg. I recommend buying direct from Microsoft unless you have a Newegg/Amazon giftcard you're planning on using, the price is the same everywhere. If you're looking to buy just the license key and don't need the installer again, make sure you get one marked as a digital purchase, I've bought Windows licenses from Newegg and they just email you the key.
Looks like you got your answer, but I just wanted to add, make sure you package it properly, otherwise it'll arrive in pieces. Jay did a video about it, he did go a bit overboard, but there's no such thing as too safe when dealing with the postal service. Expanding packaging foam/Instapak is your friend. Just make sure to account for the cost of packaging supplies if you don't already have them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1JbTXTnmj4
My thoughts exactly. There's always another sale, always new hardware right around the corner. If you need an upgrade now and you have the money, buy now.
Also wanted to note here, anything over 2133 is an overclock, even if the kit is rated and guaranteed to run at 2400, that is still an overclock.
Yeah that all works just fine, you can use the USB to install Windows. First boot should be without the USB stick plugged in so it goes into the BIOS/UEFI, make sure all your hardware is detected/working there, then shut down, plug in the USB stick, start up and select boot from USB device, and the installer takes care of the rest.
That works, probably easier to just download the media creation tool directly from Microsoft and load it on a USB stick: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
You are correct, you can install and boot into Windows before activating it. Obviously you will go for the full retail key over the OEM, just buy a "digital" copy of Windows 10, you will be provided with the license key, usually via email, instead of having to wait for a USB stick or CD that comes with the installation media you don't need.
Unless you have a coupon/discount code for a legit retailer like Amazon or Newegg, your best bet is probably to buy directly from Microsoft.
That particular listing looks like its for a new phone so you shouldn't run into any issues like you might with a used product, but it's still worth noting it is sold by a third party, just fulfilled by Amazon. That being said, if you're dead set on getting that phone and the price seems reasonable to you, should be fine.
IMO if you are looking to buy a used product online, only buy if they use photos of the actual unit being sold. Last used phone I bought I specifically went with a certain seller on Ebay because they posted HD photos of the exact phone each listing was for, so I could see every little imperfection and knew exactly what I was buying.
If you want to know what case it is, can you post a photo? (link to Imgur or somewhere you can upload). If it's Alienware I'm guessing it's some proprietary or modded case they specifically had made for their own use, so it's not going to be an off the shelf part.
This is the easiest and fastest way, if you have a spare USB drive laying around. OP when you order from Newegg or whatever retailer, it should tell you what the delivery method is, if it's electronic delivery, it's just the activation key.
Are you reusing any of those existing drives? If you are, the 500GB SSD is your boot drive, I would spend the $120 on a 1TB SSD, there are a few from the likes of Team and ADATA that fall within your budget. If you can spare an extra $8, the Samsung 860 Evo can be had for $128 from B&H, yes it's a generation old now, but if you wanted a very well reviewed SSD from a bigger name brand, it is an option. Team and ADATA are still decent picks though, I see them regularly recommended on budget builds.
Personally I really like my Corsair K70 Lux, I have the Cherry Brown version which I prefer since I do quite a bit of typing in addition to gaming. It's really a subjective thing though, I'd first figure out what kind of switches you want, and narrow down choices from there.
Try posting here to get started: https://pcpartpicker.com/forums/forum/27-create-a-part-list-for-me/
One question I do have, any particular reason you must have Windows 10 Pro instead of Home? If you're factoring that into your budget, Home could save you a bit of cash.
OBS or Nvidia Shadowplay would be the first two that come to mind
lol agreed, those were good times
That would be amazing to work for Haas, or any F1 team. Just out of curiosity I looked at their website, it looks like they currently have 1 accounting related position open at their Kannapolis HQ. I found this out a while ago, but I also thought it was cool that Guenther Steiner also lives in NC not far from me, kinda thought he would live in Monaco or Switzerland or something.
It was a nice dream, at this point I'm glad my livelihood doesn't depend on my ability to make a putt though. I'm fortunate enough to play most weekends, I know that's more than a lot of people these days. I did work at a club for a few years, but if I go back to the golf industry I'd probably go work for an equipment manufacturer, Titleist being first choice since I prefer their equipment. I was around a pro shop long enough to know club pro is not the job for me. It depends on the club, but most pros I know and worked with have long work weeks/weekends and don't have much time to play or practice.
I wanted to be a pro golfer. I still play competitively every once in a while, but that's just the local golf association tournaments. Instead of golf, I work for an investigation firm dealing with insurance fraud.
To clarify, m.2 is a form factor, not an interface. Standard 2.5" SSDs use SATA, some m.2 drives are also SATA. The faster m.2 variant is NVMe, and the vast majority of users will not notice any difference between SATA and NVMe.
If you do get an m.2 drive, SATA should be about the same price as the 2.5" variants in the same capacity, if your motherboard has an m.2 slot you would just save yourself having to populate a drive slot in your case and a couple of cables you wouldn't have to worry about.
For the mic, if you prefer a headset one, I like my V-moda Boompro. I've not had any other mics to compare directly, but from what I've heard it's quite good quality when I'm in a discord or game chat.
All that means is that one of your standard SATA ports on the motherboard will not work when the M.2 drive is installed, so with your 2TB Barracuda, you just have to make sure to plug it into one of the other 5 SATA ports, since your mobo has 6 total. The motherboard manual will specify which one gets disabled. There is nothing wrong with the compatibility of your parts.
Cool, thanks for the suggestion. The CF791 (or I guess C34F791? idk monitor names are dumb) is top of the list right now, seems pretty much impossible to beat at the current price, currently $749 on Samsung's own website and B&H.
Sounds good, glad you got it fixed! Probably a good idea to stop Windows from just going ham on your system with updates.
Do you have another set of headphones or speakers to confirm the issue persists? Obviously your test on the other mobo was good as well, seems like the issue isn't with the headphones alone at least.
No problem. I mean they're magnetic in the sense that they can pick up screws when they are also attached to a magnet, but the bits themselves would not be magnets as far as I know. Also just wanted to add, a magnetic parts tray is a good thing to have for organization if you'll be disassembling anything with a significant number of screws, can be had for a couple dollars online and at most hardware stores.
Yeah the hacked account with good history seems to be the common one with Ebay scams, I once had someone buy a giftcard off me on Ebay and try to get me to send them the code via email instead of mailing them the card. I refused, turns out the buyer account got hacked and someone was trying to farm gift card codes.
I probably would, if I could be near the Monterey Peninsula area for the golf. I do enjoy low cost living where I am now though, making the same salary as my brother who lives near Silicon Valley I could afford a nice big house, country club membership, and a couple nice cars, and he splits rent on a 2 bedroom apartment. Granted it's a decent apartment and he's got a nice car, but a mortgage on a place fit for raising a family where he is in outrageous. I'm not quite at country club level yet, but my income to cost of living ratio is much better.
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