you need to clone the drive in order to get all the boot information. Your drive should provide the software to do this from the manufacturer or use some free ones.
just look for pcie wifi add-in cards. They are usually around $30 for a decent AC card.
Example one for $25.
There are many factors to consider beyond just the RPM of the drive.
Given the same platters and data density, there is a proportional difference in transfer speed. The 7200 RPM drive would also have a better seek time.
SMR drives have become popular with manufacturers lately, so you will also need to be sure to compare apples to apples. (SMR to SMR, and PMR to PMR).
As a practical example, if the 5900 RPM drive you are looking at has a higher density per platter, then it can have the same (or higher) data transfer rate compared to the 7200 RPM drive.
Short answer, you can't just generalize the speed of a HDD by the RPM alone.
yes. it ususally has a table/chart that shows what combinations of items in the m.2 slots disable which SATA Port(s).
The note just means that some ports are shared so you can't use all at once. Your list isn't working but just go to the manufacturer website and check the manual. it will give the specifics.
Simply put, you have M.2 slots and SATA ports. Some of those are shared. So if you use a M.2 slot then you may only have 4 of the 6 sata ports available for use. The message here is generic so see the manual. It can depend if you use a sata or pcie ssd in the m.2 slot sometimes depending on what motherboard it is.
if you just want to start clean/fresh then it's simple. Start the windows installation process on it. When you get to the first steps of where to install it, select your drive and it will give you options to format the drive or drop/create partitions etc. I usually just drop all partitions and recreate one to make sure you get the full drive space, then let it do the format and away you go. Takes no time at all.
It just means that you have more 'physical' ports than can be used all at once.
Your motherboard will usually have 6 SATA ports and 1 to 3 M.2 ports(slots). But if you use certain combinations of the m.2 slots (or sata vs pcie in the slot) then it will disable one or 2 of the SATA ports. So instead of 6, you will have 4 available etc. You need to check the manual for your specific motherboard, it will usually have a chart that says what will be disabled depending what you install. The message on here is just a generic one and not specific.
check your wiring from the button to the motherboard. Ensure it is plugged in, as well as in the right spot.
If that is all good, you can eliminate the button itself by shorting the pins on the motherboard to simulate a button press of the power button.
there are many examples on how to do this. one linked below:
You did not specify what manufactuer/model of card you are asking about so there is no way to answer your question.
As for how to tell, it will say in the specifications.
I don't keep up with the specific models much, and they seem to be changing all the time. For example, WD has just been found out in the last few days that they are switching some RED NAS drives to SMR without even specifying it or changing the price....
Some good info here.
everything seems higher-end except your 2tb seagate drives. They are SMR drives, you might want to consider PMR drives for your HDDs instead.
The modem will depend... Some providers allow you to use your own, others do not and provide you one for free. For the providers that do allow you to use your own they only allow certain brands/models that they have tested on their network so you will have to go to their support page and find out which can be used. If they give you one (Which they should) then just use theirs. If they charge you a fee each month, just buy one yourself. I can't imagine they won't give you a modem for free since they can't install their service without it... but you may or may not get a router/wifi with it.
Some providers will give you just a modem, and others will give you a modem/router combination, or even a modem/router/wifi combination. Some providers will charge an extra $10 or so per month for wifi, some don't.
My provider gives me the modem only and charges $10 a month for wifi. I just use their free modem which is fine, and have my own router. I also have a second router that I use for wifi with the routing part disabled.
Signal strength over distance is not a linear function and is instead logarithmic. Basically it deteriorates very quickly a short distance away from the antenna. Of course people will say you get radiation from cell towers and everything else all the time, but you are also not standing directly next to them either... If you are a technician climbing a tower you are not allowed to be directly in front of the antenna (those are directional, where your wifi is omni-directional). Same with a microwave dish, you are not allowed to stand in front of it etc. And it doesn't pass FCC exposure limits if you do, but since it is placed on a roof or up on a tower where the public can't stand directly in front of it then it passes fcc criteria.
Your wifi antenna should not be doing anything to you, but it is not like you will want to mount it on your head. Just put it somewhere where it is not in constant direct proximity to people to be safe. The manufacturer probably just puts that 20cm to cover themselves since long term exposure doesn't have definitive studies.
Here is a graph to highlight how signal strength goes down over distance without obstructions (Free space loss). A house wall would take it down about 3db for example.
NAS drives are typically setup to be running 24/7 etc. and have better vibration control for when you have a full rack of them together. Hardware raid configurations can require errors to be reported by the drives or it will time-out and you can lose files. Enterprise/nas drives are made to provide the errors in time, consumer drives are not. That won't matter if you are not doing any special hardware setups though.
In general, you can expect it to just be more reliable really and usually has a longer warranty along with the higher cost.
See some summaries here:
see here as well.
SMR came out a few years ago. If you are not constantly deleting and re-writing then it isn't that big of an issue probably. If you are running an application on it that is constantly moving data/deleting/writing, it would have a big impact. The SMR drives usually have a higher cache of 256mb to try and compensate. PMR drives don't really need it or benefit so have smaller cache sizes.
The PMR drive is almost double the price though.
You will not really notice any difference at all. The 970 evo will throttle itself if it gets too hot so the heatsink isn't absolutely required. Even then, it doesn't sound like you have any use case that would actually use the NVMe drive at full speeds for extended periods of time anyway.
You might save a second or less on boot time. Save a tiny bit on long load time games, but these things are not even really noticable. As for long transfers at 2000 MB/s you probably don't have any other device anywhere near that speed capability for moving files to. Otherwise you need a special use case to take advantage of those speeds, so they are just numbers on paper at the end of the day, but not much practical use.
That seagate 2tb hdd is a SMR drive. They do that to reduce costs, but it can impact performance and can drive users here to look for a PMR drive instead.
Both are storage drives, just one is much faster.
Your Options are:
You will want either a SATA or NVME SSD drive to put the windows installation on, and anything else you want to be fast. Do you need more? Depends what you are doing and how big you buy for that first drive. If you need more, you can add any of the options above for more space. HDD being cheapest/slowest, SATA SSD being middle speed/cost, NVME being fastest speed/highest cost.
yes, it will read blue ray discs. If you want to play blue ray movies you will need software to do it as well.
check for your temporary locations. Windows etc. will use the temporary folder when doing things. Sounds like it is using it on the C: drive which is full. Just reset it to another drive that has space.
The ending number specifys the pack out option.
Seems to just be an enterprise SATA III SSD from 2015. This drive would cost much more than a consumer drive but if the listing isn't adding a premium to the price then it's fine. If they add a premium for it, then don't bother and just get a current ssd.
Spec sheet link:
if you link your microsoft account with the product key all you need to do is sign in after you install on the new ssd. If you don't do that then you will need to enter your product key to activate the new installation.
use the ones that come with the new motherboard. If you need more since you have 6 HDs then you use a few that you are currently using as well.
Your question seems to ask if one cable can be run for a longer distance.... Both cables are rated for 1000 mbps at up to 100 meters so they are spec'd for the same length. Yes the cat 6 can do 10gbps (which your router does not have anyway) but only at 33-55 meters max. So to answer your question, either cable will work. The cat6 might be a bit better overall and you might be able to go over spec with it easier, but on paper the are both rated the same for your use at 1000mbps
One easy one is testing and reporting. In usa you can walk into a medical facility and get tested pretty easy. I know someone in Canada who is pretty sure they had it, and went to the doctor. But since they had not been travelling internationally or knowingly came into contact with someone who had they were told to go home and wait it out and were not even tested. If they got really serious they could go to an ER I suppose. So in this case without the test, it can't even be reported at all even if it was positive.
Next you have actual reporting. Do you really trust that China is reporting all their cases after all the mis-information they gave early on about everything?
you can do it two ways.
First way is to just clone the drive as mentioned. You have to clone and not just 'copy' the operating system as there are many hidden files and boot information that won't just copy over.
Second way is just to reinstall things which can be preferred sometimes as it gives you a clean start. Just unplug your current drive and install windows onto the m.2 ssd. Then you can boot into that and your current drive will be your d: drive. Now you need to copy any data over to your ssd that you want. Note that you cannot just copy installed programs as they need to be integrated with windows. For those you will need to reinstall them. Games can be a mixed bag. For steam you can just tell it where the library is and it will use the existing files. there are even options to relocate the library and it will move it to another drive. Games you can try copying it and installing over the copy to integrate it with windows again but it might or might not work. Or you might just need to install the game new and then find the game save files and copy them to the new location. NOTE that I keep saying copy for games instead of move, so you always have a backup on your old drive until you confirm it works, that way you don't lose your save game. Once you get everything you need, you can then clean up your old drive by recreating the partition and formatting it. Here again you can't just delete all the files to get rid of windows since it has hidden boot info/partitions etc.
it could be faster to just use a switch vs a router. but then it also depends on the product as well since not all will be exactly the same. In either case I doubt you will notice any difference between the two. If you are trying something special to get max speeds maybe you need to look into 10GB routers/pc cards etc. I've really no idea what you are trying to do though.
i'm not sure what you mean by the router 'controlling the server'. Routers route traffic, assign ip addresses etc. They have different features depending what you buy such as QOS options, VPN setups etc etc. You might get different features on an enterprise router etc, which probably doesn't have wifi if that is what you mean. But it is because of the features of the router, not that it has or doesn't have wifi. I have a rackmount switch and router in my house and they both have a ton more settings available in them (not that I use any of the fancy options).
Should be fine. Your router should have 4 or 5 ethernet ports so you won't need the switch if you can connect them all by ethernet to the router. If a few are farther away and you want 1 cable from router to the switch then branch out to 2 or more pc then that is fine too.
Your card supports MU-MIMO (multiple user - multiple input multiple output). You would need two antennas to make use of this because 1 antenna is not 'multiple.
What you normally have is a 2x2 configuration. 2 transmit and 2 receive streams. So that means normally you have 433mbps x2 for 866 total. Missing one antenna will drop your total possible bandwidth in half of course.
To give further info, your card is listed as AC2100. This is just marketing mumbo jumbo, you do not get 2100mbps. You have dual band, so the 2.4GHz gives you up to 300mbps, and they say the 5gz supports 160MHz channels which would give you 866 x 2 for 1732mbps on the AC. 1732 plus 300 is 2062 and they round up to 2100 for a marketing number. You can't use 2.4 and 5ghz on the same device though, so your real max is around 1700. And then you probably don't have a router that supports 160MHz so it's around 850 really. and then with 1 antenna its 425 or lower probably. Even if you do have a router supporting 160MHz wide channels they eat up many channels and if you have any neighbors nearby with ac routers you are likely going to have interference. There are only two 160MHz channels in the usa and they overlap all the 20 and 40MHz channels that everyone else is using. Again, they may have tossed the capability into the card for marketing, but being able to use it like that is another story.
Good news is you can just buy another antenna online and screw it into the port on the card. They are not expensive.
typically, I would just do a clean install. For me, I just drop and recreate the partition on the SSD and format it. Install windows onto it, then install any of the programs you need.
to answer your question about programs on the HDD, they will still be there, but won't work since they are not part of windows registry etc. You can try to install the same program over top of the old one, but I'd just delete them all and start over on installing them. You should be keeping all your data separate anyway, so programs can just be reinstalled.
same goes for games, you will have to reinstall them for windows to recognize them. Steam can be put in the same directory and it will just re-confirm the games instead of downloading them again which is nice.
Depends on your use. SMR will be cheaper, if you just store video and photos on it then it will be fine. If you have a few in a raid 6 configuration or other write intensive scenarios it might not be great.
An SMR drive overlaps recording tracks to store data at a lower cost than PMR technology. The downside occurs when data is deleted and that space is reused. If existing data overlaps the space you want to reuse, this can mean delays in writing the new data. These drives are great for archive storage (write once, read many) use cases, but if your files turn over with some regularity, stick with PMR drives.
It could be the switch. They come in 10/100/1000 mbps versions. A new one will do all three, and old one might only do 10 or 100. Or if there is an error or bad cable, it might only connect at 10 etc. There should be a light on the switch telling you what it is connecting as, or check your ethernet properties on the pc.
Just data I googled up. SMR drives are usually cheaper, but some people will only buy a PMR drive because of performance or just simply not wanting the shingled overlap that a smr drive does.
plug your drive in and only that one. then boot with the windows usb installer. when it gets into the installation what you can do is tell it to drop/delete the entire partition on that drive and make a new one, then format it. That way absolutely everything will be gone and you are not loading up anything on the drive.
In order to know if you should go higher depends on what you are doing with the pc etc. etc. 16GB is enough for most people, beyond that depends... Are you doing VM sessions?
I'd do 2x16gb myself. leave the other slots free in case you decide to upgrade later. All the benchmarks i've seen before show next to no improvement in speed by going 4x8 vs 2x16 etc.
you don't have a ssd drive in your build. you could buy a 500gb ssd and move your operating system to it to boot from.
I don't think you can run the switch with no power at all. You still need to plug the switch into an ac outlet, and the switch will inject some power into the ethernet ports for low powered devices that you connect.
See this faq on asus site about it needing a x1 pcie slot. Worth a try.
Gold / titanium are the efficiency of the PSU. Gold being 92% and titanium 96% (both at 50% load.). They will both function the same, the gold will cost slightly more $$ in electricity costs, but it is really a miniscule amount.
Some details if you want to read more:
well, it does say to use a uefi bootable version.
This website says that the windows download tool can't make a uefi verision
It directs you to use rufus instead. I've heard of it a lot, but never needed to use it myself.
ok, found some more info here that seems to give a possible explanation.
The background here is NVME SSDs do not appear within the BIOS until Windows creates the system partition with the EFI Boot Sector. Your M.2 SSD contains UEFI driver information within the firmware. By disabling the CSM module Windows will read and utilize the M.2-specific UEFI driver.
Guide for installing Windows 10:
1- The M.2 drive has to be the only drive installed.
2 - Go into the bios, under the boot tab there is an option for CSM, make sure it is disabled.
3 - Click on secure boot option below and make sure it is set to other OS, not windows UEFI.
4 - Click on key management and clear secure boot keys.
5 - Insert a USB memory stick with a UEFI bootable ISO of Windows 10 on it, USB3 is quicker but USB2 works also. A Windows DVD won’t work unless you’ve created your own UEFI Bootable DVD.
6 - Press F10 to save, exit and reboot.
7 - Windows 10 will now start installing to your NVME drive as it has its own NVME driver built in.
8 - When the PC reboots hit F2 to go back into the BIOS, you will see under boot priority that windows boot manager now lists your NVME drive.
9 - Click on secure boot again but now set it to WIndows UEFI mode. (see #3 above)
10 - Click on key management and install default secure boot keys
11 - Press F10 to save and exit and windows will finish the install. Once you have Windows up and running, shutdown the PC and reconnect your other SATA drives.
I see some posts online for this board mentioning to enable CSM (Compatibility Support Module) in bios to be able to use the NVMe as a boot drive.
says $14.99 price on Corsair's page now. out of stock though..
could try calling asus and maybe they will mail you one... but otherwise, just plug them in individually.
The case has a few front ports that connect to header pins on the motherboard. You can probably buy a hub to connect with different plug types if you want. The motherboard itself will have ports on the back i/o plate. So just plug it in there instead of the case front. I wouldn't call that bypassing though, it is just using different ports.
Or you could just buy an adapter if you need to use the front.
it will be ok. It's just if you start forgetting to plug things in etc. Try to do it in a way that gets you there in stages. ie: get it to work and load into bios/post. day 2 get os installed. day 3 install other programs etc. that way at least when you stop messing with it for the day you know it is working.
Both are SATA SSD drives and very close in specs. You are not likely to notice any difference. With the price gap being so large, it will be better to buy on price. If the prices were closer, I'd grab the samsung but it isn't worth the extra $50.
ya, doesn't seem great. I'd really check if you are paying for that verizon router. When I look online for verizon fios (not available where I live), it gives a $39.99 a month for 200mbps but that is with your own router. Then they add $15 a month rental fee for the router if you use theirs. That is $180 a year, which you can buy a much better setup for easily compared to what they give you for only $70 or so. Essentially you break even on the rental in 4 months.... there is no reason whatsoever you should be paying a rental fee...
There is also another thing you can consider. I assume your motherboard has external wifi antennas. They are omnidirectional so don't have a lot of gain but cover a 360 degree area. Instead of that, you can buy a directional antenna pretty cheap which will be a higher gain antenna in a more focused beam type area. So you point it back to the wifi router since that is what you need instead of 360 coverage. You would not usually do this at the router itself since you want it to be 360 degree there.