I had two old all-in-one pc's with win8 oem that MS did the free upgrade to Win10. After the upgrade they were no longer OEM, and they transfered to new pc's for my kids when I tossed the older pc's just fine. Check your license with the below information link, and if OEM you need to buy it still. Those cheap keys are illegal, probably won't work, and not worth the hassle FYI.
Maximum Video Card Length from the Case Specifications:
280 mm / 11.024" With Drive Cages
395 mm / 15.551" Without Drive Cages
Your selected video card was 280.35 mm and the recommended one was 269.83 mm. So your original one won't fit, and even if it was 280mm or you could somehow squeeze it in, it is just too tight of a fit and you would be complaining and struggling to get it in.
For the power, your build is listed at less than 500 watts, so either a 750 or an 850 would be fine. An 850 won't be better from the extra watts since the PSU only delivers what is actually used, but it would give more capacity if needed later. Better would really come from differences in one PSU vs another. At $119 the Corsair is at it's low price point (PSU's bounce up and down every few weeks on the popular ones and the corsair was $149 just 7 days ago.) The 850W version is low currently as well and only $129 ($10 more) if you wanted it. A Better PSU is usually defined by specific models and not brands so I'll let others who keep up with the reviews get into that, but if you are interested then sites like https://www.jonnyguru.com/ will give you real good reviews of performance.
the OEM version comes on a DVD, the Retail version comes on a USB. I recommend the retail version since you can freely transfer it between computers later.
Either way, you are really just buying the license key. Microsoft offers a media creation tool where you can download the install files for Windows 10 and make a bootable USB drive if you have a spare one. Then just install and use your key you bought.
7200 is the standard in consumer desktops these days (for a HDD). 5400 usually in laptops as they generate less heat, use less power etc. Standard in any decent laptop (or desktop) today will be a SSD however. If you are planning to upgrade, you would want to get a SSD. The laptop will boot up much much faster, but the SSD also has massively faster response which will make general use of the laptop so much better, more responsive, less laggy etc. etc.
Add in a SSD drive as your main boot drive. Either go all SSD or if too expensive (probably is in Canada), then get a smaller SSD (500GB) for just the OS/main programs and the HDD as the secondary storage.
an Intel 660p is about $75 as an example.
it isn't an issue. SSD vs HDD is night and day comparison whether it is a 3.5" 7200rpm or a 2.5" 5400rpm vs the SSD. If it is easy to return though then go for it. But if he is happy with it now then just move the OS to the SSD as soon as he can afford it and make the HDD the mass storage drive.
Yes, it is probably a little bit slower than a 3.5" 7200rpm and if it was to be your final main drive you would want to change it, but for future storage it isn't life or death..
your build is missing a power supply unless you have one already?
That is a good user drive. If you were to compare it to something like below which is over $1000 for a drive you can see that there are technically better if you are truly asking for 'fastest'. It has 236% faster 4k random read on the optane drive. 125% faster mixed 4k i/o etc. But you would see that kind of a drive in a database server etc., not usually in your home pc.
There are other drives besides samsung though. The EX920 is about the same 4k read speed but almost half the price.
these are averages, the drive you end up with could be above or below etc.
your m.2 slot supports both SATA and NVMe drives. The sata port is only disabled if you put a SATA m.2 SSD in it. If you use a NVMe it is fine.
6 x SATA3 6.0 Gb/s Connectors, support RAID (RAID 0, RAID 1, RAID 5, RAID 10, Intel® Rapid Storage Technology 15), NCQ, AHCI and Hot Plug*
1 x Ultra M.2 Socket, supports M Key type 2230/2242/2260/2280 M.2 SATA3 6.0 Gb/s module and M.2 PCI Express module up to Gen3 x4 (32 Gb/s)
*If M2_1 is occupied by a SATA-type M.2 device, SATA3_1 will be disabled.
Some description of what you want to use it for might help with the opinions. Are you only browsing web pages for your bank statements? It's overkill for that....
You have a PCIe network card. Was there a reason, as the motherboard has it.
You have a dedicated sound card, again the motherboard has sound. Are you creating music and need something specific?
Motherboard supports m.2 format ssd drives. is there a reason you went with a 2.5" sata drive? I'm gonna assume it's not based on price since the build isn't cheap? You could get a NVMe drive instead.
again, some idea of what you want to do and budget would help.
it will fit fine. That drive is a M.2 2280, PCIe 3.1 x4 and NVMe 1.3
The motherboard has 2 slots. Both of which can handle the 2280. Note that only one of the slots can handle a SATA drive if you ever get one in future, but that is less and less likely as the months go buy and the NVMe (for the PCIe) are taking over on price point.
1 x Type 2242-2280, supports SATA & PCIe 3.0 x4 modes
‧ 1 x Type 2242-22110, supports PCIe 3.0 x4 modes
should be fine. I have an HTC Vive Pro running on a I5-6600k with GTX 1070 and you are using better/newer parts.
On the PSU, newegg has the EVGA G5 750W in their ad flyer for $70 if you wanted to consider that. It's only a few days away, psu is $130 right now so it's a decent deal.
evo plus vs the evo is $40 more looks like currently so bit of a premium and a definite splurge of funds.
the 970 evo is like $10 more than the 860 evo. In a PC build over $3000 you should not even be looking at the 860 evo which is a SATA III drive. While you won't notice much difference in real use depending on application, it's still not fitting in with your build at all. In your price range you might even look at the 970 evo plus which i think is only 10 or 20 more than the regular evo.
That sure is an expensive case and PSU as well. PSU at $224 but walmart sold it before for $154 just a few months ago... NewEgg sold that case for $180 not that long ago as well. Neither seem that common though so don't go on sale a lot. Other PSU's will go on sale every other week..
might be getting interference from a neighbor on the same wifi channel? if you have an android phone you can use free apps to see the wifi channels and strength of all the signals, walk around the house and see the impact etc. If you have apple... well they are tyrants and don't allow that for some reason... If there is interference, you could try changing channels or move the router a bit if there is a signal drop where your pc is.
Laptop better than PC might just be a better wifi adapter, you would have to check the specs to see if they are equal and what the signal gain is etc.
860 Evo 1TB = $140
970 Evo 1TB = $149
The differences are not what they used to be 1 or 2 years ago. If you don't want to pay $10 more then just get the HP Ex920 or a sabrent rocket in the $120 range but they are still NVMe. There is no reason to even consider the 860 Evo.
100 Mbps is equal to 12.5 MBps. But you never get the full theoretical max due to various conditions, header info etc. It sounds like you might be getting 10 megaByte transfer which seems normal.
10 Mbps would only be 1.25MegaByte /s if that is indeed what you are getting and would be low.
I pay the samsung tax myself. They are the market leader and what most other drives compare to. Sure you can get cheaper with other brands, but the SSD will last you a long time and I'd rather use theirs. Not that the other brands are bad, or not recommended. Just you will find users in 2 camps either supporting samsung, or going for the price discount of other brands. People who have samsung and another brand usually say they can't notice the difference, so it is just a choice each person has to make.
The Samsung is slower. It is a SATA III drive vs the HP Drive which is a NVMe drive. The 6gb/s is just the max interface for SATA III which will end up just under 500 MB/s (MegaBYTES) on a good drive. The NVMe has a much faster interface (I forget the limits by version just google it if interested), but the limit won't matter much, you are concerned with the actual drive performance. The EX920 is showing around 2624MB/s which is 5x faster than the sata III. This is all on paper and depends on what data, how used, etc. etc. and likely you won't even notice the difference in normal use. But most will grab the NVMe since they are not much more expensive these days.
Specifics of the two drives performance side by side so you can compare the paper benchmarks.
As both drives will have windows on it, you just need to make sure in the BIOS/UEFI settings that it is set to boot from the correct drive (the SSD). That way you do just what you said, plug the HDD in after you get windows all done on the SSD and it will just be there as the D: drive.
I would suggest that once you get your SSD running properly to move any data from the HDD to the SSD temporarily and then format the HDD to clean the old windows from it, recover space etc., then just copy the data back to the HDD. Of course make extra care to ensure you don't forget some data, or format the wrong drive.
Maybe to clarify a bit might help. When you read about m.2 and 2.5" drives that is the form factor (Physical product type). The 2.5" is the laptop size format and the m.2 is the small computer chip that is about the size of a stick of gum. The 2.5" drive will always be SATA (SATA III for the current drives) and plug into a SATA port on the motherboard with the typical hard drive cable. The M.2 will be either SATA or NVMe and the chip itself will directly go into a slot on the motherboard. (NVMe uses the PCIe interface)
Your motherboard supports:
Ultra-Fast PCIe Gen3 x4 M.2 with PCIe NVMe & SATA mode support
The Cruical P1 drive is: PCI-Express 3.0 x4 as well so will fit in fine.
with NVMe pricing so close to SATA it's hard to recommend SATA unless on a real tight budget. NVMe you will need a m.2 compatible slot which i'm not sure if you have. (or get a pcie adapter).
Post your part build so we can see what will work.
Essentially SATA drives can be either 2.5" or m.2. Basically the same just depends where it plugs in. The sata SSD will top out around 500MB/s speeds due to the limitations of SATA. This is where NVMe comes in with a different interface and you will find drives in the 2000 to 3000 MB/s ranges etc. In normal use you won't notice a difference though but do to current pricing, it makes sense to go with NVMe if possible.
Just keep in mind that you won't really notice the difference really. If you have the money then why not... but if trying to save some bucks it's not a game changer of one vs the other.
It seems to write a bit faster (on paper at least) for the plus. For only the $10 more it is a definite option. Considering you don't seem to be building a 'budget' system and likely keep the drive for many years, it would be a good buy. You may even want to just consider getting a 1TB SSD and not even getting the HDD, then later on when you run out of space just get a 2nd SSD (and they should have come down more in price in another year or 2). Unless you do need that space now..
his build has integrated graphics.
Instead of the 2.5" SATA SSD you should get a 970 Evo which is only $20 more and NVMe instead.
The EVGA G5 750W psu is going on sale for $70 for Black Friday which is $5 cheaper. They haven't listed the 650W G5 one but it might be on sale then too otherwise it would be more expensive than it's bigger brother.
you went for overkill, not capable...
I saw something from NewEgg that if you bought their Pre-Black Friday deals they would price match to the lowest black friday price afterwards etc. but I forget the wording and it is going to be store by stoer policy. I'm not finding it with a quick search though, maybe it was just for some specific items that came in my email and not a store wide thing.
You have 6 SATA ports and 2 M.2 slots. One of the m.2 is shared meaning that if you do use it, you will not be able to use that 6th SATA port effectively making it 5. So you can only add 5 more HDD instead of 6 on the SATA ports and will be fine.
The 2nd one is just about clearances if you use ram with tall heatsinks etc. which is usually not an issue but something to check.
almost forgot, you will want some kind of headphone with a mic since he will want to talk to his school buddies when playing multiplayer.
can save a bit with the sales.
The Ryzen 7 2700 is going to only be $10 more than your selected 2600. Corsair has a 650W PSU for $45 saving a few bucks over your 500W, rx580 is $20 cheaper etc. etc.
Do you have windows already and a monitor/keyboard/mouse? Also once he starts grabbing free games from steam, that 500gb hard drive will fill up. A 2TB HDD would be good for that.
The OS on the SSD will beat any HDD simply due to responsiveness of the drive itself, you get rid of any of the 'laggy' feel to using the pc. HDD's take more time to get started initially or mechanically move to the data location. That said, 10k rpm drives can be very fast indeed, not just because it spins slightly faster but because they are usually designed for more performance. I used to have a few before and those ones had 2 or 3 times the amount of platters inside it. So not only do they spin faster, but they can load 2x or 3x of the data per spin cycle as well. Open up a cheap HDD you find 1 or 2 platters, more in regular ones and 10 or so (at least in ones I opened) for 10k RPM drives. You will still notice a difference from the HDD to the SSD if the OS is on it, games not so much.
As for your Dad's computer not compatible with a 10k rpm drive is odd. The computer doesn't care at what speed it spins. Do you mean it is a SCSI or SAS drive or something and he doesn't have the interface connection for it?
all depends on your situation. I5 will likely be totally fine for you and be cheaper. If you plan to upgrade frequently use that. If you want to keep it longer before an upgrade down the road, the I7 would fit better. The cost difference of I5 to I7 averaged out over the life of the PC is negligible. Real world example, I bought my Kids the I5-6600k which will last them till they go to college and they can upgrade their own later. My own PC is still rocking an I7-2600k which i'm eyeing upgrading to a 3700x. My I7 lasted me 9 years now and still works fine really.
people just like full modular more but semi vs full won't matter really. It's not like you will be using the PSU WITHOUT the motherboard power connection, which is the one that is hardwired in a SEMI. It just so happens that when you move up in the models, that is just what the manufacturer usually offers so you get what they give you. If you had a server that was using two PSU and only one powered the motherboard, then that would be a scenario where you might want one to be fully modular.
that corsair psu was $34 a month ago, just look for the corsair/evga sales around black friday and you will get one cheap. I wouldn't ever get a used PSU, that is the heart of your platform.
NVMe used to be more expensive and SATA was the way to go but now it is much cheaper and much more common. More and more people are starting to pickup the NVMe versions since depending what you buy they can be very close in price to the SATA version. There is still nothing wrong with getting a SATA drive, but personally i'd look at the NVMe options since if you are keeping it 5 years, it is not likely you will be buying a SATA drive again later, so better to have both nvme down the road which would allow fast transfers of data between them. All depends on the price and sales going on at time of purchase though.
I'd just leave the 960 evo where it is and make it your OS/Program drive only. and move all the data/games off to the 2nd drive. Steam will move the folder for you even just go into settings and relocate the library.
The 650/750W versions go on sale a lot and can be a better buy, also usually have more options for fully modular etc. sometimes depending on brand too.
As with any power supply they generally bounce all over on price, so look up the price history. Take an EVGA 750W G3 for example. Today it is $113 on NewEgg, yesterday it was $133. Price has been high lately but black friday is coming when EVGA and Newegg do discounts. Last year it went down to $39.99 for one day at Black Friday. So instead of $70 for a 450W supply you can probably get a corsair or evga one in the next 2 weeks for the same price, just it will be a 750 or 850W. Or get something cheaper even. 850 would be overkill though, a 650 or 750 is gonna be the sweet spot. Problem is they don't discount the price on the 550 and lower much so you just get more than you need for same or cheaper price.
The one advantage I like with one OS drive and another Data drive is it makes it very simple for me to reinstall windows if I need. Simply do a 5 minute check just in case for leftover data or desktop items, then format the drive and start re-installing the OS and programs.
The HP EX920 is a nice 500Gb NVMe drive for the m.2 slot and is $64 from NewEgg. Might go on sale for black friday though.
Your part list is blank.
You will want a SSD as it's general speed and responsiveness is like night and day between the two. If money is tight, the best bet is to get the SSD and put the OS on it, you can always get a 2nd SSD or HHD later to add in for more space but you definitely want the main OS on the SSD. A 250GB ssd can be as cheap as $25 or 500gb around $45 assuming you get the cheap end of drives. If you post a build list and budget, everyone can help better on a specific drive selection.
Data encryption, which is not something normally done on a PC. If the drive is encrypted and the pc/laptop is stolen or lost then your data is still secure.
I like the EVGA G3 as a good psu. 650W is $105 but goes on sale as low as $86 recently and $50 near black friday last year. The 750W is $129 but goes on sale all the time too, history shows it was $60 last year around Black Friday.
In general for good PSU's they go on and off sale every few weeks so be sure to check the price history on this site and don't buy when it's full price.
Home version is all you will need.
A typical hard disk will read at 80-160 MB per second. Assuming his internet is the average 100Mbps download that is 12.5 MB per second. Yes a SSD will be much faster, but I guess I'm not convinced he can actually serve that to any users at that speed since his internet won't be equal in up/down stream unless he has fiber or something, in which case it's worse. Charter's 200Mbps service has 10Mbps upload for example. So that is a measly 1.25 MB/s he can serve to end users. A 1000 Mbps upload speed would still only be 125MB/s and in the HDD range. With that speed, i guess it could be somewhat quicker, but nothing I would call 'help insanely'.
I'd still get a SSD myself anyway. 1 SATA SSD will be around the price of the nvme/HDD combo.
yes, a mid tower will be fine to add to in the future as well. Just check how many bays etc. it has when you select one.
newegg deals will be posted about a week before black Friday. If you want to see examples just google it and you can see the 2018 flyer scans. I use black friday and get decent discounts, but it all depends what you buy. If you are trying to get a discount part cheaper, I don't think that happens much. But if you are buying a EVGA part or Asus motherboard etc. you can get 20-30 off plus another 20-30 off in manuf rebates usually. Samsung SSD's will be cheaper too. For me that is great since I don't buy bottom barrel stuff. So it's not cheaper than the cheapest you can do with other things, but it is cheaper for those parts. Really depends what you are looking to buy, so check last years deals as an indication.
PCPartPicker is not a seller of components. They only provide the tools/forums and links to resellers. Anything you buy will be from a reseller and whatever their warranty is. This site does get a bit back I think if you use their links but that doesn't change the price to you so is of no consequence.