The standard SSD will be fine for your use and you would probably not even notice a difference. NVMe excels in large transfers but that is not what a normal user does. And even if you are moving data between a 2TB NVMe and a regular HDD then you won't get the speeds. That applies to moving between the sata ssd, flash drives, your ethernet port etc. Nothing can keep up with the NVMe except another NVMe drive. But prices can be close and you might get another NVMe in a few years etc... so it's not a wrong choice, just not 4x faster in everyday use.
There are even uses for pricy enterprise SSD's costing thousands of dollars for database use etc. and it is worth it for their use, but not in your own pc.
Drives are sold 'Bare' without cables or screws. Data cables would have been included with your motherboard and power cables with the power supply. Mounting screws would have come with the case when you bought it. A mounter would just be any brackets but you shouldn't need it. A 2.5" drive might need brackets to fit into a 3.5" rack space for example. Most decent cases these days eiher have 2.5" mounting locations already or have the brackets in the case. My own case has screwless drive cages so any hard drives use rails that came with the case.
The GPU has it's own power connector(s), you have those plugged in? When you start the PC do any of the GPU fans spin at all?
I don't do much.
Intel Core M is a family of ultra low-voltage microprocessors belonging to the Intel Core series and designed specifically for ultra-thin notebooks, 2-in-1 detachables, and other mobile devices. The thermal design power (TDP) of all Core M microprocessors is 4.5 watts or lower. Intel Core M microprocessors are fanless due to their low TDP.
Ok. Powers up, looks pretty. What does 'pretty' mean? It goes into bios and then what.... it gives an error about no operating system? You are not saying anything about what the issue is so I'm going to guess that you are trying to install windows and it doesn't do that? Go into bios and check that your drives actually show. It don't matter one bit if they are plugged in and powered if they are not recgonized. Then tell it to boot from the dvd drive to get things started.
Well, if it is a software issue, changing the motherboard won't help. What else have you done to check anything?
Have you checked your CPU/GPU temperatures to see if anything is overheating?
Have you run malwarebytes or other software to check for malware/viruses?
have you run any stress tests to see if it reboots under say heavy memory usage?
Have you unpluged and repluged your SSD cables (websites say the storage device is a common cause of this error)
unplug the 1tb harddrive and the usb flash boot drive. Your objective is simply to get the bios to show as your first test. You might even need to only use 1 stick of ram and try different slots if it is a ram issue.
You need to evaluate what you are backing up and why. There is no need to backup windows really for example, you can just reinstall it if needed. Same goes for most programs, games etc. What you want is your data really since that can't be recovered. That could be as little as a few gigabyte or a large amount of family photos/video etc. Options could be a flash drive or another storage drive. You defiantly do not need a 2.5" ssd, a cheaper HDD will do just fine. But this is all just data corruption/loss for backup. If you put another HDD or SSD in the PC and it catches on fire, well then that backup did absolutely nothing for you... so what you really want is a backup in a separate location. ie: backup to the flash drive and then put the flash drive somewhere else that won't get destroyed if your PC does or house catches on fire etc. Not everyone likes cloud backups but you could also just use google's free 15 GB online storage if it is just some data files. They will sync the data to/from your pc in those folders. Windows also comes with a free 5GB online OneDrive to do the same. There are others even but you get the picture. You can pay for more space, or even go with a dedicated cloud backup solution like blackblaze.
For example: I would not backup windows OS, program files, games etc. I would backup my home photos/videos, and any saved files (excel sheets, word documents etc.)
ditch the cpu cooler and use the one that comes with the cpu. Then use that money to buy a 250gb SSD drive (or larger). Put the windows 10 installation on the SSD.
I was running VR (VIVE Pro) on an I5-6600k with a 1070, but that pc was too far from the room area for wireless to reach so had to move it to an aging I7-2600k with a 1080. It runs fine but can stutter a bit on the more intense games due to the cpu downgrade in the 2nd setup. With your CPU/GPU there should be no concern about performance.
also, your monitor is an odd resolution at 1366x768. Get a 1920x1080 resolution.
you have 8gb ram, should increase it to 16. Chrome eats up ram with multiple tabs, and you say you want multi-mb spreadsheets. Excel will crash out on you if you start getting big datasets, trust me.
Why do you have a GT 710 gpu in there? Ditch it.
Do you need windows 10? that will add to the price.
Get a 250gb ssd at the minimum.
Easier said than done...
While we are at it lets switch to all electric cars within 2 years. Forget hybrids even. And revamp that cold fusion while we are at it. Quantum computers are up to what, 50 qubits now? It'd be so so easy for them to ramp that up and pair it with a classical graphene cpu for total dominance. And lets get superconducting at room temp, i mean it has been way too long they should have had it years ago, I mean it's so so easy...
Well, that would be against the license agreement since it is to be used on one pc etc. But you can call microsoft and they can unblock it for you. Of course, if you keep doing this then it will just get blocked again and they might not unblock it a second time.
It should work fine, I had some older all-in one PCs that had the Win7 to Win10 done, then moved them to new PCs afterwards. One had problems activating and I had to call microsoft. Even they had a hard time but eventually got it to work by remote controlling and running admin commands to reset stuff.
Those benchmarks are a synthetic test only. While a good first comparision you can't expect to actually get those results in everyday use. While a NVMe drive can be 5x faster on benchmarks than a SATA SSD it won't be 5x faster boot time. You might save 1 second or so which is only ~10%. Certain tasks do take advantage of it, but for most regular users the only benefit would be large file transfers. But here it even depends on your source. Assuming you can download at infinite speeds you are still limited by that 1000mbps ethernet port, which is only 125MB/s and well under SATA SSD speeds. Userbenchmark also has data on usb drives and their fasted listed flash drive won't make use of NVMe when transfering either. So unless you use it as a scratch disk, home database server, or some other special use case, then you really need more than one to be able to transfer anything between them that will use the higher speed. Of course, if the price is equal or close, then grab one anyway maybe since you might get another a year later and then can transfer fast. Just don't be expecting the difference that you see on the benchmark comparison you linked in everyday use.
You can keep the existing 1TB hard drive you have now. Just reinstall windows onto the SSD, and clean up the HDD. Then you can put games on the larger HDD. Once the game loads, it won't make any difference really if it is on the HDD or SSD.
Depends on your library, how much you keep installed etc. etc.. My kids had 1TB each for steam and it was not enough really.
I do not prefer red in particular, you just asked between the red and purple which would I choose. If I had a purple already and it was essentially free like yours is, I'd use that. If I had to buy a new WD one, I'd just get a blue drive. It will be cheaper to get the Blue. Any of the drives will work. Better? In certain use cases maybe but you are just wanting a desktop drive, so the features of the purple are meaningless to you. The red has a longer warranty and is designed to operate continuously etc. but you are not doing that either. If just a desktop, then the Blue is all you need.
I would use Red myself.
Use the support list provide by Gigabyte
The adapter will have a maximum, but for actual you can use a device like this one. You plug your laptop into it and then to the wall. Since it is in-between then it can tell how much is being used at any given time. Watts used is not a constant amount and will vary depending how much processing / use is being done on the laptop.
from what I find when searching on the topic, it seems fine. I don't own one or have ever used one though so it is just what I find online. My understanding from searching is that it supports extended ATA commands which a streaming CCTV system can use. They are available, but your pc won't be using them. Probably lower performance than other drives but probably not noticeable for video etc.
You have them just 'laying around' so go ahead and use them. Just try them out with some disposable data to be sure if you like. If I had one I'd use it. Then again I don't trust any drive to last forever so anything I really need is backed up elsewhere. Only disposable stuff you can re-install etc. I don't backup.
according to forum posts you can. Seems to have special commands and things, but those won't get used in a desktop. See the response from WD Staff in the link.
The drive will only use the streaming ATA commands if it receives them from the host. Desktop computers should not natively issue these types of commands so the drive should work like a normal hard drive. Some differences are that since the drive is optimized for contiguous data streams, the random read/write may not be as fast as a regular desktop drive. Also, the drive is designed for constant 24/7 operation so it will not go into a power saving mode on its own.
You have the physical format / slot type. That is either your 2.5" (laptop size) SSD or a m.2 slot on the motherboard. This is just a physical plug type you can think of it that way.
So then you get into actual different 'types' of SSD. For the 2.5" SSD you have only one option which is SATA III and it plugs into your sata ports and power cables exactly the same way that an mechanical HDD does.
For the m.2 slot you can have multiple things depending on what your motherboard supports. Some are not even SSD's such as wifi cards etc. But for SSD's you can usually put a SATA drive in (which would essentially be the same thing as the 2.5" sata drive), or you can put a NVMe drive in. The NVMe drive uses the PCIe bus instead which gives you more bandwidth and the drives themselves are 4-5 times faster than the SATA SSD in some benchmarks.
So think of your HDD being 100 to 150ish MB/s, your SATA SSD around 450-500MB/s and your NVMe drive at 2000-2500 MB/s. Is your NVMe drive 5x faster though? Not usually since you only get the benefit under limited scenarios. The SATA SSD is probably all you need and you won't notice much of a difference at all. That said, the NVMe drives are available at very good pricing and so many will just grab one even if the speed benefit might never be realized.
Simplest way is to just remove the existing drive and put the new one in it. Then when you install windows there is no confusion whatsoever as to what drive it is being installed onto. Once that is running plug the older one back in and it should be the secondary drive (just make sure which drive is C: when you boot in). Then delete it as needed.
unlikely you will need it. You can always just buy an external usb one, they are listed at $18 on newegg. The only place you will find to download games that require a key are likely illegal, and be a pain to find what you have, and could include malware in it. Just buy the drive if you need it or you could maybe go to your local library (those likely have dvd drives) and just copy your disc image to a usb drive. Then load that image up on your pc from the usb and install.
If you do not have a DVD drive then you can just create your own installation media on a usb flash drive. Go to the link below and download Microsoft's media creation tool, then install windows from the usb. when it asks for the license key, use the one you have from the OEM disc.
It depends what version of windows you have. OEM is for that system/motherboard only. Retail you can move freely as long as you take it off the old one.
You reference M.2 and SATA as if they are directly comparable. Just be aware that M.2 is a physical format (the slot) and SATA is an interface type. Your 2.5" SSD can really only be a SATA drive but you can put either a SATA or a NVMe drive into a m.2 slot depending on the motherboard. Putting a SATA drive into the m.2 slot gives you the same performance drive for drive.
The EX920 is a NVMe drive so not to worry, just be aware if you look at other drives.
They are very close to each other in performance.
You can easily assemble your own PC these days and get quality parts. Usually when you buy pre-assembled they tend to go cheap on certain areas like the power supply etc.
Web browsing won't impact anything. Then just consider the games and what resolution you want to play at. General gaming just get 1080p since that is common and won't be super expensive. Getting high framerates in 4k resolution and 144Hz refresh rates will drive up all your hardware costs.
You can also guage a part's price by the pc partpicker price history. Just look at that history and see how much of a discount it was at christmas, or black friday etc. Power supplies especially have discounts every few weeks on popular models. So waiting even 1 week might save $20-$40 on that one part alone assuming it goes on discount all the time (not just once in the year).
Generation over Generation improvements are nothing like what they used to be. 15 years ago your cpu would double in speed every 2-3 years. But a top end CPU from 2011 say a I7-2600k will only be doubled now, almost 10 years later. see link for real world benchmarks. (I'm still using a 2600k in one pc myself, and it works fine. But I'm thinking of upgrading that one to a amd 4800x later this year).
If you get something now, you can probably expect a ~10% increase generation to generation. See AMD.
With the speed they are at now, you don't notice it that much really. So buy now if you want something, or even get a 2700x to save money. If you wait till later this year to grab a 4800x when they come out then it will likely be the price of the 3700x now, but be 10-20% faster. With a Solid State hard disk, your new pc will be nothing like a pc from 15 years ago.
Basically, the motherboard manufacturer is giving you more ports than the board actually has bandwidth for. So when you use some combinations of the M.2 slot it will not allow you to use one or more of the SATA ports. Usually not an issue, just check the Manual to see what configurations impact and which specific ports are disabled. Future generations may not have this issue if they increase the bandwidth in the boards but it exists now since m.2 is relatively new still.
Just get whatever you need at the time you need it really, otherwise everyone uses their PC for different things and it's hard to predict what you will be doing with yours...
Some basics that I usually have on that are free:
can look here and see if something meets your needs. WD Blue 4TB is listed at 28.8dB(A)
My last builds were Intel, but with current products available I'd go with AMD.
never heard of them before, but review seems to say they are good.
Do you have a monitor? what resolution/frequency is it?
Also, you will want to add a SSD hard drive to be your boot drive.
have you read the raid installation guide for the motherboard?
your motherboard does not have a m.2 slot, so you will be getting a 2.5" SSD drive which is SATA III. Basically that is just a bit smaller than your HDD and uses the same plugs and cables to the motherboard. You have 4 sata ports (1 used by the HDD), just use one of the other 3.
This drive is $65, but they start at about $52 for the cheapest ones.
the 850 evo is probably more than fine. I leave my pc on 24/7 and have a 840 evo which is even older. It has around 40 TBW used when I checked it a few weeks ago. Your 850 evo is rated for 75TBW on the 120/250gb version and 150TBW on the 500/1000gb version. You can get free utilities to check your used TBW on the drive to check it.
there are many reasons people choose. There are legitimate uses that can justify a high performance NVMe drive but your average user won't be doing that.
Get a ~2000 MB/s NVMe drive then if you have say 200mbps cable internet which is fairly common that is only 25MB/s. So even here your plain old HDD will work. Say you have 1000mbps internet (or even just your full speed ethernet port), that is 125MB/s and again, a HDD can keep up with that.
Transfer from that NVMe to a SATAIII flash drive and the highest benchmark I see peaks at 256MB/s (sustained is probably much lower). Your SATA SSD can do that throughput.
If the NVMe is not much more than the SATA price though (they have been dropping in price). Even if you don't use the speed today, if you add a second NVMe in a year or two, you then get the transfer speed if moving files between the drives.
Latency between the HDD and SSD is a massive difference. But about the same between a SATA SSD and NVMe SSD. So it all depends if you can use that sustained read/write really, and most normal average users won't.
also if you have a 2.5G ethernet port, cat5e is supposed to work for that as well.
Cat6 is rated higher and can handle more crosstalk/interference. Cat 6 can do higher speed, but only at a shorter distance.
The onboard 802.11ac WIFI module from Intel® supports Dual Band and up to 433 Mbps
could try this as well. check for packet loss on your connection. Traceroute is another item you can google about, to check your connections actual path to the end point since you might be going through 20 locations before you get to the end point.
these below are just random websites I googled to do it. You can use your command prompt to ping sites as well or download traceroute programs etc.
make sure your phone isn't switching to cellular data due to a slow wifi connection. My phone has that option at least, not sure about yours.
Your phone might have faster speeds due to hardware/mimo/antennas/standards differences, but you said the pc originally was fast so shouldn't impact this much.
how are you determining speed? from random sites or the same site on both phone and pc? speedtest.net?