Thanks! Glad you liked it. And thanks for the feedback.
We debated this a bit ourselves, but temperatures were normal in our benchmarking. The sides of the case (along the edges of each glass panel) are actually open, so the air is not as trapped as it might seem at a glance. And ultimately, if you want the rings to light up through the glass, it sort of forces your hand on air flow choices. Thankfully it worked out!
It builds up over time around the intakes and of course just settling on the top like most cases. Certainly visible if you let it build up.
For advice on an alternate version of the build, I'd recommend posting your part list in the Create a Part List for Me forum and ask for help getting to the budget you had in mind, noting which parts you are hoping to keep in place and any other thoughts on what you are hoping to see in the build. Lots of folks willing to help there, if you give them some good parameters around what you're looking to build. Good luck planning your build!
:D Glad you found some inspiration in it.. Good luck with your build!
I hear ya.. it's a sweet looking cooler.
But personally, yes -- I'd go with a CLC if you're game. The H115i PRO would work -- really any of the popular 240 or 280mm CLCs should do well with what you're describing. If you wanted to stick with CM, you could use their MasterLiquid RGB and tune its lighting to the perfect red hue.. or maybe take a look at something like the DeepCool Captain 240EX, which comes in a red-specific accented version (including the all-for-show tube on the CPU block).
Our experience with the MasterAir Maker 8 was pretty positive -- it certainly worked better than we expected, even allowing for some minor, stable overclocking. And of course, it looks pretty impressive, so long as you have a case that can handle it's size.
That said, it certainly has its limits over longer gaming/rendering runs and as is usually the case with air coolers, we saw temps higher than you'd likely get with a CLC at idle and medium loads. So yes, I do think we would have benefited more from a liquid cooler in this build.
While I think the MasterAir Maker 8 is a decent solution for someone building a higher end system that (for whatever reason) wants/needs to avoid liquid cooling, the price point places it right up against many popular options for AIO liquid cooling that probably makes more sense.
Hope that helps -- Good luck with your build!
Sorry -- the Cinebench test is the only one we did at the time (the processor in this build was on loan, so we don't have it on hand anymore to re-test)
There are 6 120mm fans in this build -- the H150i is actually a 360mm radiator, so it has 3 fans; plus two at the top and one at the rear.
Sure, the cables come included with this particular PSU since it's a special "white" edition of the RM850x: Corsair RMx White 850W
A blog post isn't really the best place to ask for build help -- I'd suggest you try posting this over in our Part List Opinions Wanted forum instead. Lots of folks ready and willing to help out! You can also check out the staff Build Guides for more build ideas if you're interested.
Yes, there's enough clearance. I just did a quick check with the two DIMMs we have -- the inside DIMM is close to the cooler, of course, but doesn't touch anything, so you should be fine.
Good luck with your build!
Correct -- they are different. The fans included are the original Corsair "SP" fans. You can't mix the different fan types (SP, HD, LL, ML/RGB) on a single controller hub. That said, we technically could have kept the SP fans and added LL's using the Lighting Node Pro with two hubs (since our 3-pack included a second hub). The LL fans would connect on a hub connected to one channel on the Lighting Node Pro while the SP fans would connect to the second channel / hub.
Only thing that might be tight is the RAM clearance with the radiator if mounted up top since the GSkill TridentZ memory is a bit tall.. but it looks like it's been done with success, so should be fine. You could also put the radiator at the front list this one, which is kind of interesting.
It's technically fine, but you might also want to consider bumping the PSU up a bit (maybe 750W?) for a little headroom if you intend to overclock things at all.
Also, (if you have the budget to do so) consider bumping the SSD to 500GB.. 250, even with the intent to mainly be an OS drive, just fills up so quickly..
We didn't push past what I noted above using the Easy Overclock feature to get to 4.6GHz. We were mainly testing how the CPU cooler would handle a bit of overclocking given how it was positioned and priced. There definitely seemed to be room to push it a little further, but that's all we tested, sorry!
Very nice -- looks great!
The 3 fan kit comes with the Lighting Node Pro controller. Without it, you won't be able to change the lighting on the fans. (The controller can control up to 6 fans though, so they sell the individual ones in case you want to add more for your particular setup. Corsair sent us two 3 packs, so we used them -- but technically we could have gotten a single 3-pack and 3 additional individual fans to get the same result)
It's a case of trade-offs... (if you'll excuse the pun).
In its default configuration, I can definitely understand concerns over temperatures. That's why we re-configured the case layout to add the dual fans to the bottom intake (trading off the ability for the drive cage to remain) in order to feel more confident that the system would feed adequate cool air into the case/radiator. With that choice, our temps were within expectations at typical loads and "decent" (given the X299 CPU) under heavy load. We've certainly seen better, but it wasn't untenable.
Ample fresh air seems to get pushed in and up to the radiator (CPU temps looks great) and then across and up to the rear exhaust. I'm not sure how well a single lower intake fan would have worked though if we needed to rescue space for more HDDs than the M.2 options provided on the motherboard.
Adding to the air flow oddities is the PSU, which in the 805i intakes (likely warmer air) from the main case cavity (right below the GPU) rather than fresh air from the bottom (it exhausts out the back as well). That's extra heat on the PSU over time, which isn't the end of the world, but isn't my favorite choice.
So I point all that out to say, most cases (even one that get's hammered in reviews on it's air flow options) can be made to work with a bit of deliberate planning with adequate cooling (CLC vs air, etc). Some cases just seem to make it more of a serious thought process (and experimentation) than others -- hence, what you've probably seen written in reviews on this case.
It should normally be fine -- what it's saying is that for each M.2 slot you use (ie, for an M.2 SSD) that it disables one of the SATA ports used for traditional hard drives/SSDs/optical drives.
It's something you want to know about so that you check the motherboard manual when connecting any SATA drives to make sure you use the correct ports that aren't disabled. In our build above, we just checked the manual before connecting the 3.5" HDD to the motherboard to make sure we didn't use the port that is disabled by the M.2 slot we happened to use. There's 8 SATA ports on this motherboard, so it's not really an issue.
Sure, it's quite capable of 4K -- You can take a look at the FireStrike Ultra and TimeSpy results to see how it compares to expected 4K gaming. It's mostly just a matter of how high you can push the settings in particular games and what frame rate you're looking to hit.
If you're concern is air flow in the S340, I wouldn't worry. It does a great job of moving air through the case. I think the H700i has enough improvements to warrant your attention over the H440 if you're looking at that size case. The extra cost on the H700i is certainly worth it if you want TG and your plan is already to add a dedicated RGB controller like the HUE. And it being integrated under CAM along with the fan control can be handy. So from that perspective, a HUE+ would run you $60 and a Grid V3 would cost you another $50, so it's not a bad deal if it works well with your build goals.
The P400S is a great case as well -- a bit different look, of course, but also very popular for good reasons. It's another (mostly) easy case to build in. You can check out the build we did in it recently as well.
So: (1) Yes, the improvements are worth your careful consideration to upgrade though it's a negative if you don't really want the CAM-powered RGB/Fan control.
(2) You're getting into an opinion aspect here.. So take this with a grain of salt. If my choices are S340 Elite/H440/H700i/P400S TG and cost didn't matter, I'd personally probably snag the H700i. But I'm a sucker for RGB and tempered glass.. If budget is getting to be tight (or I was trying to be more careful with the case budget at least), and I'm not needing the larger case size then the S340 Elite and P400S TG are pretty great bargains and a bit of a toss up on price. I might lean a bit towards the P400S? I dunno -- tougher choice, at least with my personal tastes.
(3) Ultimately you have to go with what fits your taste, as it's going to sit on your desk for the next few (or more) years. But you've narrowed it down to practically a "no bad choice" situation, so you should be fine. All these are solid cases to build in.
And (4) thanks for subscribing! :)
The S340 Elite is certainly a popular choice and for good reason. It's a solidly built case that we find pretty easy to build in. Given it's gone thru a number of revisions over the years, it's about got any particular negative quirks it ever had just about worked out at this point.
The H440 is notably larger case, so that mostly depends on your needs a bit, but also a popular choice from NZXT.
Where the S340/H440 represent two of NZXT's most popular older cases, the H100i is an ITX version of NZXT's newer H-series cases. The H700i is something of a reborn H440. You can check out our experience building in it here. The new H-series cases are a bit more expensive though, as NZXT includes a "smart device", which amounts to basically a HUE+GRID fan controller.
Unfortunately, I've not had first hand experience with the Panzer Max to be able to give much feedback on that option. Looks like an interesting case.
The S340 Elite includes an 120mm fan at the front and a second 120mm fan at the rear exhaust (though both are normal/black fans, not Aer/RGB). The GPU was $660 back in October 2016 (when we originally built this).
The bottom of the case can technically accommodate a 240mm radiator for the CPU (down where we put the 120mm radiator for the GPU). Though you'll need to keep an eye on your PSU's length to avoid cables not fitting against the end of the radiator. You'll also need to make sure you're tubing can reach from the CPU to the bottom. I'm not sure off hand if Fractal's Celsius S24 (or any) 240mm AIO radiators could reach that far without a bit of testing. It might take a custom loop to make that work.
So yeah.. we debated this a bit. We did it mostly for the visual effect, to create the "up and over" light pattern through the top glass; however it does also serve to push air across the VRMs. Clearly more intake air than we need, but the fairly open design of the case deals with the extra air intake well.
We didn't modify the case at all -- which hole are you referring to?
Okay, so apparently there is one.. We may have to snag one of these. Looks like it could majorly improve the look of the shroud.
Not sure where you see $500, but the EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 runs about $580-$600 normally. We already had it on hand and selected it a while back to use in this build.
FYI, our price history graph shows it's been available within that price range (when it's actually available) over the past month or so. It does also show a few price spikes to $700 and $800, but those appear to be via third party sellers.
It was purchased for a previous build and reused in this one. We felt that it wouldn't particularly make a lot of sense to list it at some crazy inflated (and unavailable) price, so we listed it at it's MSRP. And, to be fair, according to our price charts, it has been available sporadically off an on over the past month within about $10-$30 of that price.
Ah, ok.. You have to play the angle game a bit. From straight on, you don't really see that, but from a front angle, sure. You have to tuck them somewhere, after all.. An extension or end cap (with holes for cables) to cover the unused area might be nice, but we'd have had to remove some portion of a longer shroud to fit the 360mm radiator anyway.
They should work reasonably well. Corsair classifies the LL fans as static pressure, though they aren't as effective as the ML PRO series fans included with the H150i PRO.
So, yes.. An argument can be made that we made things worse for the eye candy, but it should certainly still be sufficient for the task.
We don't delete posts based on content unless it violates our user code of conduct. We would have no reason to purge topics critical (or otherwise) of a product outside of that.
As for BIOS issues, for the most part, we've not run into many notable issues since the first couple months after Ryzen was released, though I'm sure YMMV board to board. That said, we almost always recommend updating BIOS/UEFI firmware on motherboards (Intel or AMD) before getting too far though. "Out of the box" can be pretty out of date depending on how long a motherboard sat on a retailer's shelf.
To be fair, this system was built about a month and a half before the Ryzen 3 1200 was available. ;)
That's probably doable. Are you wanting to see anything in particular though? We typically leave the CPU at stock settings and the memory at the default XMP profile (unless otherwise noted).
Another lovely application of RGB within the Meshify. :) Thanks for sharing!
Oh, nice! The HD fans do look pretty sweet through the mesh -- thanks for sharing it back.
I'll have to double check which mode the PSU is in, but after a couple months using the PC I haven't heard any notable noise from the PSU.
Sorry, I missed your question when you posted it originally. You've probably already moved on, but we did apply one of the built in overclock profiles to the memory and have been using the PC off and on for a couple months now for editing videos in Premiere without any instability. I'd need to check tomorrow on what speed we managed to set them to and get back to you.
Yes, the X399 Gaming Pro Carbon AC includes an internal PCIe (x1) dual band / 802.11 ac card.
We expected them to be available at launch, so we asked Fractal and they assured us they are heading to retailers and should show up soon. When it pops up somewhere it should show up in our listings pretty quickly.
It came included with the motherboard.
It's really a pretty personal choice. Some people bank on them for great deals while others consider them a pain and never worth doing. In my experience, it depends on the rebate -- some are super easy, while others can be painful to deal with.
If you're including them to squeeze a budget price down, just remember that you typically have to pay the higher price up front and it can take weeks to get the rebate. The value is often sent as a gift or credit card for the amount of the rebate (read carefully to know for sure), so it's not really the same as being on sale.
Personally, I track items and try to budget by the full price (without rebate). If a rebate happens to apply, then I fill it out -- and when it shows up, it's like a nice bonus to figure out how to spend on another upgrade. :)
PUBG is a fast moving target right now, which is why we don't currently list benchmarks for it. Recent updates (and the move to 1.0) seems to have helped, but it's still settling so it's tough to give a solid recommendation as the game still feels highly under-optimized. That said, yes -- I'd expect this system should perform reasonably on high. With plenty of CPU power with the R5 1600 and plenty of GPU power with the GTX 1080, it should keep up just fine.
This motherboard worked great, but "good" is a term that's tough to match up without more details on what you're looking for (price, intended use, etc) from a motherboard in your system.
From the specs they provided, it looks like it can control 3 PWM fans (plus 6 case fans) based on a single PWM motherboard header. So yeah, sounds like for PWM control past the first 3, you'll need additional headers.
The ever elusive December live stream has now come and gone.. Hope you were able to catch it! :)
Awesome -- thanks for watching!
It's been a while, so we're probably due to revisit a budget build for a livestream, but we did one earlier this year if you need a fix sooner. :)
We used both of the PSU's EPS 8-Pin (4+4) cables. The first one connects to the 8-pin header as you indicated, and the second was used for the 4-pin CPU header, just using half of the connector.