First off, this isn't exactly a new build, some parts have been reused from my older build so they might not make the most sense to purchase right now. I will need to emphasize I am not building this for value, but rather getting the best regardless of price. I wouldn't recommend half of these parts for an average build.
My goal for this build was to push the limits of overclocking and benching on water and also bragging rights. Most times, I use it for streaming music to my external headphone setup. I also use it often to play games, mostly Overwatch or ArmA.
I've gotten 5.3GHz stable for benching but for 24/7 use I tone it down to 5.2GHz. For my 1080Ti the best result I can get without sacrificing FPS is 2,088 boost clock and 1,510 memory clock. I have several 3DMark scores which are below:
Fire Strike (26,629): https://www.3dmark.com/fs/16345398
Fire Strike Extreme (14,934): https://www.3dmark.com/fs/16345548
Fire Strike Ultra (7,899): https://www.3dmark.com/fs/16322779
Time Spy (10,851): https://www.3dmark.com/spy/4486016
Time Spy Extreme (5,028): https://www.3dmark.com/spy/4485882
This is the single best chip for benching which I can get without spending more for HEDT. It also has great single-core performance which is especially important for games. You can easily get away with an i5-8600K, but the primary purpose was to push it as far as it can get for benching, so I thought the extra cost was justified. I also delidded it and replaced the TIM with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut before relidding for better thermals.
Motherboard: ASRock Z370 Taichi
The Taichi is a great board for overclocking the CPU and memory with the beefy 10+2 power phases and it's support for high speed memory above 4,000+ MHz. I was able to get the CPU stable at 5.3GHz at 1.43 Vcore and 50 cache multiplier. For the memory I was able to hit 3,466MHz at 13-15-15-33. I haven't tuned the secondary and tertiary timings much but I do not doubt that this motherboard is able to do so with ease.
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ 16GB 4400MHZ CL19
I purchased this memory with the intent of overclocking it. DO NOT get this memory if you are afraid to do so or when value is part of the equation. There is little benefit in real-world applications over a 3200MHz CL16 kit. Also, the XMP profiles at such speeds, to be honest, are quite bad. Was it worth it? Of course not. Do I regret it? No.
I bought these the SSD and 4TB drive a few years back with my first ever build with a i7-4790K. Can't say much other than these drives are really durable, especially the 840 Evo. Can't see myself replacing this until it breaks. 4TB is also plenty and until this day I haven't had a problem with storage capacity.
GPU: GTX 1080 Ti
This was the cheapest GTX 1080 Ti I could find used due to cosmetic damage on the LEDs on the cooler. Didn't matter to me since I planned to slap a waterblock on anyway. Got extremely lucky with the overclock to hit an OC without a tweaked voltage curve or XOC bios. Tried the XOC bios and at 1.2V I hit 48 degrees C max under load. I have no complains with it for the price.
Case: Phanteks P400S
Nothing much here other than aesthetics and the width to fit a reservoir in. In hindsight, should have gotten a slightly taller case that was able to fit both the radiator and fans.
Pump is a D5 pump, I've got 2 240mm radiators, one at the top and one at the bottom both as the intake. The top intake uses Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 3000RPM fans and the other 2 are the Corsair ML120s. The last ML120 is used as a case fan and acts as an outtake at the back.
Power Supply: Corsair RM1000x
Replaced the Silverstone in my original build after it gave out. Works perfect so what else can I say.
If you look closely, you can see the RGB LEDs on the Corsair ML120s are broke because of user error. Kept it that way since I actually liked the look better without the lights. The Noctua 140mm iPPCs are mounted outside the case on the top as an intake since there isn't any space left. Love those fans when benching at full speed they move a ton of air. Tried to shred some paper with this and it worked.
Double LG27UD68. Saw that these had great colours and since they were on sale, I got these. So far, amazing monitors that I have no problems with. Backlight bleed is minimal and no dead pixels. Nothing else I could have asked for.
Topre 45g is my favourite switch. 60% is my favourite form factor. HHKB is where they meet. :) Also, PBT keycaps. Got a custom cable from @pexonpcs for $50. Great build quality and feeling of oneness with cup rubber. The macropad on the left is a Rama M10-A with Zealios 65g switches, with stock keycaps.
I preferred the shape of the G100S the most. It's hardly perfect, but it's still the best compromise in my opinion. I have tried many, many mice over the span of 5 years. Here they are in chronological order:
Razer Taipan > Logitech G502 > Zowie EC2-A > Logitech G Pro > Logitech G900 > Logitech G100S > Logitech G305 > Logitech G100S > Logitech G Pro Wireless
The G100S had the best shape for me out of all the mice listed, but the sensor was mediocre. I occasionally spun out in games such as Overwatch but tracking performance was still great. I didn't sense much acceleration. Still, the build quality is sub-par, the microswitches and scroll wheel are bad. I replaced the feet with Hyperglides and the cable with a handmade paracord cable without the rubber insulation. The lightest and most flexible cable in my opinion, it almost makes the mouse wireless.
Though, the Logitech G Pro Wireless is still the best overall mouse for me. With grip tapes and weight reduction, its shape was almost as good as the G100S for me. The build quality, clicks and technology of this mouse is superb and I don't regret making this purchase. And it doesn't take 2 years to ship like Finalmouse.
This is my chain:
Schiit Eitr > Schiit Yggdrasil > Schiit Mjolnir 2 / Stax SRM-313 > HD800 / Custom electrostatic headphones
No speakers because apartment :( Decided to DIY a pair of electrostatic headphones a while back using the HD6XX housing as a base. So far, no problems with it and I'd put it level with the HD800. Here is a more detailed reddit post documenting the process:
I've also done a few mods on my HD800, also a reddit post detailing my setup without the DIY electrostatic headphones:
So far, this is the end of the line for me. Every part, every peripheral has been meticulously chosen or modified to perform the best. I sure hope this has been an interesting read, because I take pride into every part I have selected. :)