Description

This is my quiet gaming/workstation PC using the In Win 303 case. Since a couple of years I've had the goal to create increasingly quiet systems - even at full load and taking the Australian climate on board. This is the first one I'm pretty pleased with in terms of thermals, noise and looks.

Cooling Setup - I had a X99 system in this 303 before with top & bottom as exhaust, but that setup had some rather high coolant temps: up to +14C over ambient. In this build, I've used a bottom-up air flow combined with a monoblock to also take the VRM heat away - and this works much better. The back fan helps create a slightly positive air pressure which the 303 needs as else exhaust heat flows back into the case.

OC - The Ryzen 1700 is overclocked with a +0.14V offset at 3929Mhz, with G.Skill memory at 3220Mhz. The 1080 runs at 2088Mhz. This is totally stable under Aida 64. Some benchmark results at these settings: - Cinebench R15: 1701 - Valley: 119.6fps - Firestrike Extreme: 10516

Noise/Thermals - The noise level is 30-32dBA@1m using Vardar F1 fans than run 450-630rpm, depending on load. At full 144fps gaming load, the coolant reaches 8-10C over ambient, while around +2C at idle.

Cooling Parts - Hardware Labs GTS 360 white + XFlow 420 Radiator. EK D5 pump/res + connectors + PETG hardtubing + GPU&CPU monoblock. Aquaero LT6 controller + inline sensors + MPS 100 Flow sensor.

Next - Upgrade to 1080Ti, install / get the Aquaero power break relay to work

Comments

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Nice Build

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Nice loop you got there! I quite like the white and blue color scheme. Also nice job on the interior.

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

That looks COOL

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Very good looking build. That heat exchange block's color though...nice.

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Lovely! +1

BTW, what is that square thing in front of the Case?

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Thank you. That's the NZXT Puck for hanging up a headphone / cables

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Is it included when you buy the case or sold separately? Now I think i also need one of those. I like White Builds and yours really looks good and clean.

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

NVM. Your case is INWIN so it is sold(NXZT) separately i guess.

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

It's a separate thing from another case maker, NZXT

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Did you have any problems with connecting front io to the motherboard in your 303?

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

That all was totally fine. Just make sure you don't buy a motherboard with the USB3 connector at the bottom - or you have a angled 19-pin usb3 adapter.

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Where did you end up putting the Aquaero? P.S. Im slowly doing the same to my 303. I have all the parts right now running on air. just waiting for the money and time so that I can change it over to water!

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

It's in the area behind the PSU, drilled two holes to keep it in place. I'll put a pic up later.

  • 26 months ago
  • 1 point

Looks great! I was thinking about doing the same thing but my MoBo has some of the same monitoring connections (i.e. the temp sensors and flow sensors) so I think it would be cheaper for me to use those. How is the aquaro? easy to use?

  • 26 months ago
  • 1 point

Can your mobo run on temperature differentials?

The aero is very easy but some say it's a bit technical. It allows you to get your hands on pretty much everything: I'll put a couple of screenshots up.

It also integrates with things like HWINFO so you can monitor pretty much anything.

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Could you run me through what the PWM board is running over near the PSU?

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

The Aquaero LT6 board is running 4 channels for the 7 fans & pump + it monitors 2 coolant & 3 air temperature sensors. The fan speeds are controlled completely autonomously with a curve that runs on the delta between coolant and air temperature (this is what all other controllers lack). There's a couple of more features on this board but I don't use those right now, although I may add the power cut-out for when there's no flow or extreme temperatures.

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Isn't that a pair of sweet Adam speakers I see...

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Icy!!!!! Nice clean look!!!

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Nice build +1 what speakers?

  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Thank you. Adam A5X

  • 26 months ago
  • 1 point

Nice build, really love the color scheme.

  • 26 months ago
  • 1 point

How did you go about mounting the Pump/Reservoir onto the case? Also could you run me through how you have the whole water-cooling loop setup?

Thanks in advance.

  • 26 months ago
  • 1 point

Hi the pump/res is mounted using the standard 120mm EK (90 degree) mounting bracket onto the white rad. Not sure what you mean with your 2nd question. If it's about the order, it is: pump > flow meter > 1080Ti block > cpu/vrm monoblock > 420 rad (push,exhaust) > 360 rad (pull, intake). The idea is that the last rad gets the coldest air to cool with before it re-enters.

  • 25 months ago
  • 1 point

thanks and you got the question right!

  • 14 months ago
  • 1 point

Absolutely diggin this build, gonna take some inspiration for my 303C build! Can you tell us how much space the fans on the top radiator to the glass have?

  • 14 months ago
  • 2 points

I'm measuring 92mm in total for fans + rad + breathing room.

  • 14 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks for the info!

  • 14 months ago
  • 1 point

i got three more questions, if you have time.

  1. How did u fit the 420 rad on top, did you drill extra holes?

  2. Is the EK pump/reservoir combi workin without any modding with aquaero? I've read a lot of stuff in the www to go with an aqua computer pump if i wanna use aquaero and the software to the fullest... pretty confused

  3. Is your EK Pump PWM or DC?

  • 14 months ago
  • 2 points

Hi again! 1. Yes I had to drill some extra holes. 2. Yes I never had any issue, both with Aquaero LT5 and LT6, and with 2 EK D5 pumps. I'm not sure if I just got lucky, or it's an old problem.. in any case I remember vaguely that the solution out on the forums on overclock.net looked pretty straightforward. 3. Both are PWM.

  • 10 months ago
  • 1 point

Hey Eduard! I am finally done with my build and wanted to say thanks to you and your tips and information! Make sure to have a look at mine! All the best, Paul

  • 10 months ago
  • 1 point

Hey Paul. Thank you for the thank you! Very nicely executed build you've got there. I also like how you got aquasuite on it's own monitor! I've since moved my build into the new Phanteks Evolv X.

Tschüß Ed

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  • 11 months ago
  • 1 point

Hi

I took the reference 1080Ti EK waterblock and cut off a corner of the acrylic so the display-port connector would fit - nothing else is needed.

[comment deleted by staff]
  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Yes posted on overclock.net's 303 forum but there's nothing new there - I didn't do a build log. Happy to comment on the 303 if you've got some questions / check your ideas.

The cooling direction is pump > gpu > cpu > top rad > bottom rad .. so that the last rad gets the coldest air. The top rad is working with warmer air so could never cool as well. Another thing I did with this build is putting the drain & designing the loop so that it actually drains decently: it's at the front/bottom, together with a sensor to measure the coolant.

(Btw thank you all for your comments!)

[comment deleted by staff]
  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

You would have the GPU putting a lot of hot air out - so I would go with what you are suggesting , the 360 on the bottom and just fans up top running at a speed that doesn't create negative pressure.

The monitor speakers are Adam A5X, they're very audiophile with a perfect stereo image where you can't hear the speaker position itself. I use it's cheaper sibling - Adam F5 for our home theatre together with an Adam Sub8.

[comment deleted by staff]
  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Parts are currently in the mail for my own 303 water cooled build as well. It seems to be pretty popular right now. I'm using an XSPC cross-flow up top, then a 120mm rad on the rear port, with just intake fans on bottom. I'm going to be putting the rear rad/fan in pull config, so it's also an intake for positive pressure. If you have an ATX board I'd recommend avoiding rads on the bottom unless you have some small fingers.

[comment deleted by staff]
  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Funny you say that, I have 3 Riing RGB fans for the top sitting right next to me. Also going soft, but that's because I'm using last-gen CPU and MoBo from my current build, I know I'll have to swap those out in a year or two, so that's when I'll switch to hard. Luckily my 3.0 is on the side so I should be able to run all 3 non Riing fans on the bottom. Here's what I'll be building once the fittings arrive next week: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Hydrophobic/saved/hnwr7P

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  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Yep, using the top port as a fill port. My plan is to have a downward angle on the tube out of the pump, to a T splitter. The one continuing on will have a ball valve and cap for draining, the one going up to the GPU >120mm Rad > CPU > 360mm Rad. Should place the valve at the very bottom of the whole thing just over the intake fans. In reply to your other comment, the fittings add up fast. If I had gone for the minimum needed it would be maybe half the price, but I added in 4 90 degree M-F adapters, 2 45 degrees, the T splitter, valve, some plugs, an extender, and a couple extra normal fittings. I don't anticipate using every single one of those, but I want to be able to build without crazy tubing bends. Also, EK through the supplier I used was cheaper than Bitspower. On the top rad, consider a cross flow. otherwise you'll have at least one tube stretching most of the way across the case. I got one so the CPU out can go straight up to the Rad inlet, and the outlet on the other side straight down to the Res. I added in the 120mm becasue I'll be cooling a 1080 with this, probably running 4k. I got the EK tubes becasue that way I can be certain they won't react badly with the EK coolant.

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  • 27 months ago
  • 1 point

Hard (PETG)