Description

Like my last build I wanted to maximize $><Performance. Finding the optimum product/tier that would not have a gain % wise to justify the cost % wise. I went through several iterations, I'll list a few alternatives I was thinking and why I skipped them, and settled on and built this build. Knowing that I blew it and picked more Epeen over Practicality :) But.. in those choices I still chose the best $><Performance.

AMD Ryzen 5 1600: ($79.00) This was the Catalyst for me starting this build. With Gen 3/Navi being introduced there's a whole shift in tier / value. I love the numbers of the 3600 but in most respects it is a 25%-30% performance increase for a 152% price increase. I compared all the Gen 2/3 and % wise there was none that justified the price increase vs. the performance increase for me.

ASRock B450M Pro4: ($48.99) For me there were 3 other considerations. MSI B450 Tomahawk, Gigabyte B450M-DS3H, and the -HDV version of my board. No doubt MSI Tomahawk is a great board but at $119.00 it is 72.5% more expensive than most ($69.00) ASRock B450M's and I don't think it has 3/4 extra abilities to justify cost . The other 2 on average are $5.00 cheaper (-7.25%). For $5.00 more you get extra fan headers / extra M2. slot /Extra 2 DIMM slots and extra PCIe X16 vs X4 and various other improvements vs. the other two. Both have some which the other doesn't but neither has everything like the B450M Pro4. (*) -$30 discount for buying Ryzen at time of purchase so board was $79.00 at purchase, I was ripped off of another $10. normally on the board to make it $69. like most other retailers but I didn't catch it at the time.

Crucial Ballistix Sport (3200): ($65.99) I feel Memory along with the PSU is the most frustrating to justify price % to performance % rationale. So I am not going to really try. Most Ram between 2133-2666 is $10-$15 cheaper. And honestly if you switched my Ram for any of those I would never know the difference in my daily use unless I opened a monitoring type of program. That being said both the motherboard and Ryzen Screamed to be given their Max so I did.. But in no way am I getting 15%-20% more performance from the DDR-3200 vs the others, Might get the 15%-20% boost in Performance based Benchmarking scores that would be the only justification.

Inland *Premium 256NVMe: ($34.99) At present $29.00 is about lowest 256gb SSD which is 20% price difference. Most often it will be SATA 3/6GB So if you do the (Max for each) comparison of 550 Read/Write to 3500 Read/Write it is 536% difference, But.. in real world noticeability about a .25% improvement. So my rationale is if you are going to go NVMe Inland Premium is on par with Samsung Evo. These have Phison controller so are very good quality. WD Blues still are the best $ for capacity.

Sapphire Vega 56 Pulse: ($190) I'm a 1080p person, I prefer to play on a 150" Screen from my couch most times, But I'm starting to feel the Freesync 1440 bug.. Not sure if I'll ever bite.. But I probably will.. Anyways I was originally considering the RX 580, being that I use my system(s) as dual purpose Gaming/HTPC and (originally) going above 1080p was seldom ever done so for 1080p $><Performance RX 580 was/is undoubtedly the front runner. But as luck would have it 7/7 Navi release has made many cards come way down in price due to what you can get for $349 (5700). I found an open box never used because it wouldn't fit into eGPU enclosure and persuaded the panic stricken that New Vega 56's had dropped to $249-$269 and soon to be $200 and got it for $190.00. This card is Beautiful I went for the Red/Black theme and it is a perfect match with the subtle pulse lighting through window.

Corsair Spec-02 Redshift: ($49.99)($59.99) I originally was going for the Deepcool line, most likely the Matrexx 55. I really like Deepcool. I think they offer tremendous value in most their lines of products not just cases. If the store had a Matrexx 55 I would have bought it. For the most part $34.99 is the baseline in which the quality is good enough usually to build in it and be happy. I find that cable management, cooling and such is equal parts builder as it is product/engineering. I have seen amazing builds in mediocre cases and horrible builds/complaints about fantastic cases. The Zondda-O case, pair that up with a Shelby 350H and you'd be Golden. But.. I am very happy with this Corsair case. It was easy to build in, Looks great. I prefer more subtlety versus bright/crazy colors and this does exactly that. In the end the fact this came with (3) pre-installed 2 X 140 / 1 X 120 LED fans and now that build is finished I am glad I got this case over the Matrexx. Case comes with $10 MIB (which I will never do) so duel prices reflected

Rosewill Capstone 750M: ($73.98) And here we have the 3rd Achilles heel of this builds justification of $><Perf. So I will base the justification on the same basis I did with the storage "once I committed to NVMe, I got the best $><Perf NVMe. Once I committed to 750w as my powerbase I got the $><Perf. leader. The build quality is very good (Super Flower OEM) nothing really comes close. Price wise EVGA BQ sometimes comes close. But mostly all 750w Bronze units are equal or more expensive. I think the EVGA-B and Corsair-CX lines would work just as well as this. After all providing power to peripherals and not failing/frying is the only objective. Doesn't matter if Japanese capacitors or anything else. So again I feel I got the very best 750w for the money spent. But... in actuality I only got 750w based on Sapphires recommendation on packaging. The way I run (all) my systems is plug and play with Auto Tuning/Boosts that are built into Bios/Peripherals. I most likely could go down to 550w and still be stable.

So in essence if I took the 3 problem areas and went purely true $><Perf +SATA3 SSD /-NVMe , +2133mhz /-3200mhz, +550w-650w / -750w I'm sure I could come out Sub-$500 on whole build.

I am very interested in thoughts, critique and all else from anyone who bothered to read down this far.

Regards, Jim719

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Comments

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

Holy crap Jim, it sure seems like you did your homework on this, and then some. One hell of a write up.

Nicely done on both the build and the write up! +1

  • 6 months ago
  • 2 points

Thank you for taking the time to read the write up, Yes I tried to be thorough, even with the pictures, I posted a lot of pictures showing various angles of case interior space and wiring patterns in case others happened to use same case and or motherboard.

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

I'm jealous

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

Well.. If you are in So.Cal.. I am willing to sell this to you and start over.. This can all be yours if the price is right.. So come on down (jingle, jingle, jingle)

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

I'm not even on the same land-mass.

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

Im in the LA area. How much would you let this go for?

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

Well with this link https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vNcpyX giving myself $11.00 for the shopping/assembly would put the build at $750.

But.. being that I do complete write ups and am thorough we might as well do the true baseline bottom (cost) which was $602.39. in products and $40 in shipping for a combined $642.39 (Added for Humor, but in actuality I spent that if not more in gas getting the items).

So.. $725 seems fair to me..

Tried Googling prebuilts in $700 range most used RX 570/580 / (Reg) 1660. vs Vega 56. CPU wise most used 2600 (as expected) so those are +1, but when it came to the Ram.MHz speed, PSUw , and most other variables the +1 lost it's value overall.

So there you go... Is it worth it to you?

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

For the m.2 did it work in the first slot or only the 2nd? I heard the WD Blue only works in the second and then will make 2 of the sata not usable.

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

Yes, this is a motherboard thing.. Pretty sure it is universal to all motherboards but each MB has different parameters. With my motherboard I have 2X M.2 slots, 1 is Ultra M.2 which supports NVMe X3/4 PCIe and Bootable, other is standard M.2 Sata 3 (6gb). With my board if I use the standard M.2 I lose access to actual Sata #3 (Com/Pin/Port). My board comes with X4 Sata 3 Port/Sockets so I am left with Sockets 1,2,4 which is fine.

My board also has 3 PCIe slots and I know the Ultra M.2 NVMe when installed with a Nand/Drive utilizes PCIe but I don't think it takes away from one of them. So it appears M.2 only affects SATA 3.

Some boards take away Sata Port #1, Some boards take away several (usually max 2) actual Sata 3 ports, So depends on manufacturer.

Which is why I chose this board, I believe in minimalism, but the minimalist board (Gigabyte B450M DS3H) only comes with 1 M.2 and 2X Fan pin headers. and the usual cost savings is not worth the loss of those extras.

Which board did you choose that is taking away 2 actual Sata 3 connections? For the most part for gaming systems usually even the very cheap MB have 4X Sata 3 so it should be no problem. Those in production systems, especially Photo/Graphics have major hard drive clusters so I can see that being an issue for them.

And for the direct answer to your question

lttechie 1 hour ago 1 point For the m.2 did it work in the first slot or only the 2nd? I heard the WD Blue only works in the second and then will make 2 of the sata not usable.

Yes I used the Ultra M.2 slot. For now I plan to keep/use just the 256gb NVMe. But.. if I do expand storage I would get either 1 or 2TB Nand and use the other M.2 slot. Having that amount of storage should be fine for me since this is just a Gaming/HTPC.

It goes back to my fight over uselessness and usefulness. I use/choose M.2 because it looks cleaner through window not having any cables or even small 2.5 boxes but rather hidden seamlessly in/on the motherboard. So my thoughts are it looks cleaner and allows for pure unrestricted airflow. But in Reality doesn't really matter..

Not sure if you are restricted to just one M.2 slot on your MB, and if so it should be a Ultra M.2 Gen 3 X4 unless it is really old MB.

So your choice is to get an M.2 that is NVMe, It is confusing but not all M.2 are. The WD Blue in M.2 format is the same as a 2.5 inch (Box/Drive) Sata 3 cabled which is why it takes away a Sata option/connection.

Your M.2 slot is probably either/or compatible (NVMe/SATA) and since you are using a non NVMe stick it accepts it but locks out Sata 3 connection(s) vs NVMe not affecting at all.

I know a NVMe (NAND/Stick) will not work in (Standard) non Ultra M.2 slot but I am pretty sure a Ultra M.2 slot accepts either one.

So if you use/keep any M.2 (Sticks) that are not NVMe then you will always run into a lockout/usage situation.

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

I am actually looking at purchasing this board and just wanted to see what your experience was with the ultra m.2 slot. Thank you so much for your information. I may buy that inland premium for my os to use in the ultra m.2 slot and get some other maybe 500Gb or 1Tb for the other slot for storage.

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

I got stuck editing my post and you had already responded, so re-read my edits :)..

Anyways.. I really like the board, I think it is the true bare minimum anyone should get if they are going B450, . MSI Tomahawk is best all a rounder.

As for buying the Inland Premium, yes it is quality NAND, but if I had to do over I would have gone bigger. There are a lot of great deals as of late on Intel 660p and Sabrent Rockets. But.. Inland Premium is better than their Professional(Non NVMe) label if it matters. Which it usually doesn't.. Failing / Not Failing is what matters. Being faster is only good if it's not at a huge premium and useful (You transfer LARGE files a lot).

Another Edit: Yes.. If you do plan to do Boot/OS off of a M.2, you will need an NVMe stick and either this board or one that allows it from the M.2 slot.. I think "Ultra M.2" might be a proprietary name for ASRock based boards only so you will have to check other manufactures labeling/handling of Bootable M.2 slot design

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/lttechie/saved/9Xsjpg

Here's what I am looking at now. I can get that Crucial 500Gb NVME for $60 that should work with this board in slot 1

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

Ok.. Looks like you have CPU already?

If not are you buying from Microcenter, or have that option?

Microcenter will sell you the motherboard from $29. to $49. if you buy it with Gen 3 / Gen 2 Ryzen (-$50/-$30) Discount.

Looks like you have 2 purchases you could do better on:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=?tag=slickdeals09-20&ascsubtag=ab6b167eae4c11e9bfe93e364c14c4010INT&m=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE&keywords=NVMe%20ssd

I like the case it is cross between NZXT H500 and Fractal Meshify (Dimensional Front Panal -Minus the airflow).

https://www.newegg.com/p/2AM-008X-00007?item=9SIAE8697C9411&source=region&nm_mc=knc-googlemkp-pc&cm_mmc=knc-googlemkp-pc-_-pla-darkflash-_-cases+%28computer+cases+-+atx+form%29-_-9SIAE8697C9411&gclid=CjwKCAjwg-DpBRBbEiwAEV1_-HBj5LjYJ9fDUHqZia9FTpvrgQaBlqz6tiWunuAx4dnqnx-r8MfaQhoCWr4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

So you get a few extra storage MB's and quality for same price. And get the same case for $5.00 less

I didn't look at the case fans.

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

So this will be my first build for gaming. I have been scrolling through some of the lower priced builds and this one seems to be very well put together and researched. I am on sort of a budget ($500-$650) and I am just looking to run games like dayZ and pubg with decent performance. Is this the right build to start?

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

Yes, this will perform well above what you need for those two games.

Everything is dependent on your preference of resolution when gaming, in my opinion 21in/24in Monitors gain very little benefit at resolutions above 1080p (1920 X 1080) after 27in is when 1440p, etc.. starts to be real noticeable.

But refresh rates matter even at 1080p, if you are an avid gamer (Especially FPS/Competitive) having a 60hz. vs a 144hz really matters

So if you plan to get / or have a nice gaming monitor, you need to factor in Freesync or Gsync compatibility before you purchase your GPU

Freesync = AMD Based Cards, More selection of monitors at cheaper prices.

GSync = Nvidia (Actual proprietary hardware/certification) Stricter quality control at a premium.

with decent performance. Is this the right build to start?

If you have access to a Microcenter then you will have an easy time building under $650.

This build was done primarily at Microcenter, The GPU was (craiglist) and PSU Newegg otherwise all Microcenter.

I just made a list for another user that came out -$30, It shaved some money off a few items yet should perform near same and has better storage for a single based system

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sH4hRJ

They key issue (If you decide AMD Platform) will be finding a good RX Vega 56 in the $200 range, You can find New for $269/$279 (Stay away from blower if possible)

If you have to do most purchases at Amazon / Newegg / Etc.. you might have to step down to RX 580..

This build is hard to complete now due to most things (The Great Deals) being all sold out, very hard to find the Ryzen 5 1600 at $80.. It can be done though..

But the most common available duo is Ryzen 5 2600 ($119) RX 580 ($169) if you plan new.. which puts you at/near half budget already.

If you are Ok with used, then it is definitely possible

Do you have a list in progress already? What are your ideas, does RGB/Color/Window Panel, etc.. matter to you?

  • 5 months ago
  • 1 point

Could this run Squad or Hell Let Loose?.

  • 5 months ago
  • 1 point

Yes both should run fine. I have never played either game, So I don't know the frame rates, but I would be surprised if Squad was under 100fps in 1080, Hell let loose looks more graphically detailed but it lists pretty much the build in it's recommended section:

RECOMMENDED: Requires a 64-bit processor and operating system OS: Win7 64bit Processor: i5-7600 @ 3.5GHz or Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz Memory: 16 GB RAM Graphics: Nvidia GTX 1070 or AMD RX Vega 56 DirectX: Version 11 Network: Broadband Internet connection Storage: 20 GB available space Additional Notes: System Requirements subject to change as development continues

Most often this setup takes games at Max/Ultra in 1080p, and Medium/High in 1440p

  • 1 day ago
  • 1 point

Wow, this is badass. I have a question. I built my first PC today. I’m fascinated by this stuff now, I even bought LED lights. Anyways, I have the same motherboard and processor, will I need to adjust the xmp settings for the RAM you used? How would I do that? Or is it compatible with the motherboard and the processor from the get go?

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  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

Yes it was very simple, just highlight and enter and go. The system has not crashed, I have not done anything other than the "auto" for all peripherals, ie: GPU, Fans, CPU, Memory etc.. For CPU: I have (P)ower (B)oost enabled and with the XFR I get 3697, So almost 3.7Ghz, Just plugged in chip and loaded CPUz and HWM. and showed good results.

Same with GPU: Just loaded Wattman and pushed Auto Undervolt and seems to be decent. Haven't tried the other options for Overclock, Voltage etc.. available on menu.. You can only choose 1, I chose the Undervolt Auto.

I have not stressed or tested Memory though, but I have run quite a few Unigine and 3DMark Benchmarks just to try and compare scores to others at stock and it has completed and never stopped.. So I imagine that the memory at 3200MHz is stable

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  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

it is:

3.10 - AGESA 0.0.7.2 - Date: 3/15/19 - Size: 9.07mb

When building I had downloaded all the updated drivers / bios along with the Windows install on a USB Flash drive. but from experience I always choose if it ain't broke don't fix it when it comes to them.

3.40 is current / up to date version.

I have passed on installing it. Most likely will when / if I buy a 3rd Gen 3*** in future.